How can I remedy this problem?

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Texas Moon

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I finally had a chance to get out and fire the new Uberti 1849 Colt pocket revolver.
Have a problem with the gun and thought I'd bounce this off the forum to see what you folks might recommend.
I swapped out the factory nipples for TRESO bronze nipples.
On firing, the hammer gets blown back and the spent cap flies back and drops down into the base area of the hammer. The cap then blocks the hammer from falling properly on the next shot. Many times its so firmly embedded I have to use a thin screwdriver to wedge it out so the gun can be inverted and the spent cap can fall free.
Tedious as all get out as it occurs on almost every shot.
The powder charge doesn't matter. I went down to 6 grains and it still does this.
Is there a way to stiffen up the hammer spring?
Change to different nipples?
Any other ideas?
 
Yes. The factory nipples center hole is quite a bit greater in diameter than the TRESO nipples.
 
Send it to Mike Bracket, 45 Dragoon here on the forum. He does a full service work over of the revolver which really smooths things out. He adjusts the spring tension and installs a cap post in front of the hammer that prevents the caps from falling back among other things.

http://www.goonsgunworks.com/services/
 
More info will help.

What powder and caps are you using? What powder charge?

Are you using pure lead balls or alloy/wheelweight balls?

Is this a factory new gun or one that someone else has owned and just "new to you?"

Normally, Treso nipples and Remington #10 caps solve most cap fragment problems. If you are using caps that don't fit snugly on the nipple, it makes them easier to cause problems.

Are you sure it is blowback gas that is pushing the spent cap off the nipple, or could the spent cap be dragged off the nipple on your next cocking stroke? There may be a burr on the hammer that is catching the cap and pulling it back off the nipple.

Most factory hammer springs are plenty strong enough to hold a spent cap on the nipple, that's why I asked if someone else had used this revolver before.

If you are using alloy balls that are harder than pure lead, it will increase chamber pressure, and therefore gas blowback, as the powder charge fights to push the ball into the barrel.

Lots of things to think about.

Not trying to talk you out of having a cap rake installed by Mike, just thinking of all possibilities as you requested.
 
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What BigBore45 suggested. Before spending any money, test it with the original nipples.
 
What powder and caps are you using? What powder charge?
GOEX 4Fg. Charge ranged from 6 up to 15grns.

Are you using pure lead balls or alloy/wheelweight balls?
Pure lead balls. .321caliber.

Is this a factory new gun or one that someone else has owned and just "new to you?"
Brand new gun.

Normally, Treso nipples and Remington #10 caps solve most cap fragment problems. If you are using caps that don't fit snugly on the nipple, it makes them easier to cause problems.
Exactly what I use on all my other C&B's. Treso nipples and Remington #10 caps.
I refuse to use CCI as they blow apart and jam everything.

Are you sure it is blowback gas that is pushing the spent cap off the nipple, or could the spent cap be dragged off the nipple on your next cocking stroke? There may be a burr on the hammer that is catching the cap and pulling it back off the nipple.
Positive its blowback because after the chamber is fired the hammer doesn't go all the way down onto the fired nipple. The spent cap is mushed down near the hammer pivot.

Most factory hammer springs are plenty strong enough to hold a spent cap on the nipple, that's why I asked if someone else had used this revolver before.
Brand new gun. I actually bought two at the same time. Only fired one today. On both guns the hammer seems a little weak on cock back for about 1/4in or so then the heavy spring pressure takes over.

If you are using alloy balls that are harder than pure lead, it will increase chamber pressure, and therefore gas blowback, as the powder charge fights to push the ball into the barrel.
Pure lead balls. They're so loose sometimes they come back out of the chamber stuck on the tip of the loading ram. I tried some Hornady .315's and they're uselessly too small. I've got some .330 00 buck balls I've cast out of pure to try next.

Not trying to talk you out of having a cap rake installed by Mike, just thinking of all possibilities as you requested.
It may come to that as the guns are useless like they are.
 
What BigBore45 suggested. Before spending any money, test it with the original nipples.

The factory nipples have larger flash holes than the TRESO nipples.
Won't this cause even greater back blast?
 
Change to 3f! 4f is generally considered too hot for main charges, and usually gets used for priming flintlocks. I'd still put the factory nipples back in, though.
 
4F isn't necessarily the cause of the problem. A number of competition shooters use Swiss #1 which is roughly 4F, with small charges, and it works.

I'd try switching out the nipples to factory standard and varying the powder type, and tightening the tension screw, to try to isolate the problem.
 
I do not understand why switching back to factory nipples is being recommended. Factory nipples have larger flash holes than Treso nipples and will increase blowback, not decrease it. Please explain this recommendation.
 
The factory nipples have larger flash holes than the TRESO nipples.
Won't this cause even greater back blast?
Not necessarly.
The blast from the cap is higher pressure then the pressure from the BP charge going off.

If it doesn't have enough hole to escape the nipple fast enough, it will blow the cap off.

But I agree.
Put the factory nipples back in and try that.

If it works, drill the holes larger (same size as factory) in the after-market nipples.
 
4F is not only meant for pan priming. It has been and was traditionally used in large caliber revolvers as well as has been noted in the research of Hazard's Pistol Powder paper cartridges for .44 cal guns during the Civil War (the powder was found to be about equivalent in power to Swiss 4F), as has a curator at a museum who has taken apart many metallic cartridges from around the 1880's with some of the powders being finer than 4F.

The Lyman black powder book from the 70's has several loads shown using 4F without a reduced load.

Here's a screenshot of the Lyman load data:

10yi643.png

Here's a screenshot of the older Swiss powder cans (note the pistol powder):

23uzf9x.png
 
"Not necessarly.
The blast from the cap is higher pressure then the pressure from the BP charge going off.
"

OK, maybe.

Easy enough to check.

Take the gun into the garage and pop some caps on empty chambers...see if the hammer rebounds and the spent caps blow off backwards.

If they don't, I would keep the Tresos in the cylinder and try 2FG or 3FG.
 
"Not necessarly.
The blast from the cap is higher pressure then the pressure from the BP charge going off.
"

OK, maybe.

Easy enough to check.

Take the gun into the garage and pop some caps on empty chambers...see if the hammer rebounds and the spent caps blow off backwards.

If they don't, I would keep the Tresos in the cylinder and try 2FG or 3FG.
Best to try the factory nipples first. Then we will know a lot more.
 
Sounds like every base has been covered at leased once.
Is this your only Colt?
How strong does the hammer pull feel to you?
My last 2 Colts got cap posts before I ever shot them.
 
Factory stuff is used to set the baseline. Deviate from it and then you know whether the deviation is for better or for worse.
 
Is this your only Colt?
How strong does the hammer pull feel to you?

No. I have several others. Walkers, 1860, ROA.
All of them run much better with TRESO nipples vs. factory nipples.

The problem gun is the itty-bitty 1849 Pocket model in .31 caliber.

Mike Bellevue over on the Youtube shoots 12grns of 4F in his 1849 Wells Fargo(which has the identical cylinder as the Pocket Model). He doesn't mention which nipples he uses in his gun.

The hammer pull seems weak seems weak for about 1/4inch then stiffens up as it is drawn back.

I'll try 3F and see what happens.
 
Have the same issues with my brand 1849 wells fargo

oem nipples
3f @ 10 gr
00 buck (all available at time)
#10 and #11 same results
compared to my other colt, spring does feel soft until it is cocked
considering installing the pin to prevent cap drop
BUT
it is still the cat ass to shoot

Really need to send out to Mike
 
Problem is the mushy mainspring. The tension when cocking should be the same throughout the range. A new replacement spring will solve the problem. I've had the same problem on a Uberti 1862 Pocket Navy. A new spring from VTI fixed it. Also had an 1862 Pocket Police that had a spring that must have come off a Mack truck. Again, replacement from VTI fixed it.
 
Well tried the new spring approach and same results as the oem spring but it does feels stiffer. Still the balls to shoot, after i send my walker to Mike this one might be next. Debating on installing a cap post, just want to be sure that procedure would fix the issue before i change anything on it
 
603doug,
The cap post not only keeps the spent caps and frags out of the action, it arrests the blowback and allows a much lighter main spring. You've already seen how a lighter spring can pop a cap, set up correctly, a very "easy to handle " and reliable revolver will result.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
 
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