Sealing bullets and primers is a slow process.
For my everyday shooting ammunition I don't bother.
However, back when I was flying the bush in Alaska it was a different story.
All of my 44 magnum rounds were sealed.
One of the BLM surveyors asked why I chose inferior reloads to factory ammunition for my survival ammunition.
I explained that factory ammunition was assembled on a machine and not sealed against moisture.
On the other hand, my survival ammunition was assembled carefully as if my life depended on it.
Also, actual ammunition for carry in my survival kit was a reasonably small lot (100 rounds).
I did bring quite a few normal reloads for plinking around camp, but these were not depended on for emergency use.
My process.
Only virgin brass was used for emergency rounds.
It was carefully examined and weighed.
The 100 closest in weight were chosen. (out of a lot of 500)
These cases were checked (and trimmed if necessary) for length.
(Cases were matched to the shortest case.... With virgin cases, this was usually not necessary)
Primer flash holes were uniformed and any internal flash removed.
Primers were closely inspected for uniform appearance.
(Never found any suspect primers, but I still looked)
Case priming was done by hand using the Lee case priming tool.
At this time, I placed all of the primed brass face down in a reloading block.
Then a Q-Tip moistened with pure alcohol was used to clean around the primer/case joint.
Clear fingernail polish was thinned about 50/50 with pure acetone.
(Not the oil containing finger nail polish remover)
I chose clear as it has no pigments in the solution.
The polish was carefully applied to the case/primer joint with a syringe and cut down needle.
Cases were left on the block over night to cure.
Powder charges slightly under weight were thrown and dribbled up to exact charge weight.
Bullets were closely inspected.
(Naturally, I never found a flaw... But still looked)
After seating but before crimping I ran a thin bead of fingernail polish around the bullet/case join.
When still wet, I then crimped the bullets.
Each cartridge was wiped with a paper towel after crimping to remove excess sealant.
(The inside of the crimping die was also given a detail clean right away to remove polish displaced by the crimping process.)
Again the cartridges were left in the loading lock over night to cure.
These were put into MTM plastic 50 round boxes and sealed with electrical tape.
One of the 50 round boxes carried 5 red and 5 green 44 magnum flares, and 2 Snake Shot Loads.
In a pocket of my flight suit I carried an MTM Case Guard Ammo Wallet with 12 rounds of my survival ammunition along with 2 ea. red and green flares and 2 snake shot loads.
The MTM boxes were Individually put into Zip-Lok bags and secured in the center section of the back pack the was my Alaska survival kit.
So, WAY over done...
However, I reload as a hobby in itself and the process was enjoyable, and these were reloaded as if my life depended on them.
Other than for ammunition you expect to experience extreme conditions, ( capsizing you canoe and have to retrieve you gear from under water.. etc.) I don't believe sealing is really worth the added effort.
If you choose to seal, pure acetone is available and the thinned polish flows much better when thinned.
Steve