Beginner reloader

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Could you tell us what make and model scale you're using? It can just be a need to set the weight (oz., g, gr, gn, etc,)...
 
DRAINSMITH said:
Bud, I beg you please...please...please post your location. You are in a desperate need of a mentor. I promise no one will degrade you but someone will help. The reason for this and other reloading forums is to pass info and to keep folks safe. An overcharged round can destroy your gun, take a hand or even your life.

You will see that on this forum many of us will argue and even say bad things about each other, (especially on the color of presses) but it would bother me if I found out any of you got hurt.
Click to expand...
Thank u for your concern and advice. Thats why I ask . I dont take anything personal. I see it as getting educated so I can learn and pass it on as well...
 
OP, I'm sure your post had/has some of us worried, we do mean well.
We worry because we don't want anything to happen to you.
If you have questions ask, no such thing as a dumb question.


4.3 grains of Titegroup is a very small pile way down in the bottom of a .38 Special case.
Click to expand...

Yes, a double charge fits easy and would probably blow up the gun, a triple would fit=kaboom for sure, maybe even 4 or more would fit.
A full 38 case of Titegroup have been bad, very bad.

Some people like Titegroup some people don't.
For a beginner I would recommend a different powder, Universal might be a good choice. It's less dense (takes up more space in the case) and is a lighter color so it is easier to see in the bottom of the case.
Unique might also be a good choice but it's not as clean and doesn't measure as well out of powder measures but would be a good powder to start with, it fillsup more of the case also.
Note: Neither of these powders fill up the case. In .38 Special you will have empty space! They just take up more space than Titegroup.
Powder charges are in gr, not g (grains not grams) set a bullet on the scale, if the bullets are supposed to be 110gr then the scale should be close to 110. (could be anywhere between say 108 and 112 maybe off a bit more, the bullets may not weigh exactly 110 but it should be close)
I would say get a different powder and save the Titegroup for later.

PS welcome to THR
 
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I find my Dillon beam scale to be easy to use and set up. They can be found on Amazon. There are a lot of good options, but a beam scale seemed the logical starting point for me. I've only been reloading for a little while.
 
When I was a beginner I had case overflow once or twice.

Do start with a powder that will make you clean up when you are inattentive.

Now I use TiteGroup in my 9MM, but (repeating from elsewhere or above) my procedure is to dump full cases whenever I’m interrupted or have a problem.
 
I use both a beam scale by Forester which is easy to read, as well as Lyman's Digital scale, when loading those unforgiven powders such as Tite Group, H110, etc. Like was mentioned here several times, "it is better safe, than sorry", for sure.
 
As a beginning reloader, I found a lot of information on youtube. However there is good and not so good youtube videos for the new reloader. What helped me sort things out was reading the "how to" sections in both the Lee and Lyman reloading manuals. I read them several times. The basics are covered in each both having their unique approach. I bought a beam scale and caught myself misreading the scale and almost dumping a huge charge into a .357 magnum case. That scared me. So I bought an inexpensive digital scale, this one: () and every time I setup my beam scale I double check the charge weight using the digital scale. One thing I got right away was that with the way my mind works, I needed to establish a consistent step by step procedure and never waver from it. I wish I could have found a mentor, that would have helped a lot. I guess I did find a number of mentors on this site. Good luck and safety first.
 
You have a great opportunity to purchase a scale designed for reloading, and there are some nice ones out there. Personally I would rather use a reloading scale than the one I use now, which weighs in grams. My Ohaus's one redeeming quality is that it's accurate enough to use for reloading, but it's a pain in the butt to convert to grains and if I had it to do over again I'd definitely get a scale designed for reloading - a nice one with a pair of check weights!

Good luck to you, and btw don't take critical posts personally - it's just that safety is taken very seriously on this website. Our senior members aren't always readily approachable but they have a wealth of information for serious reloaders and a lot of it can be found by combing the archives.
 
Thank u for the advice. I dont take anything personal even if I think its a dumb question. I really appreciate everyones concerns and inputs
 
Thats a really good attitude to have and I applaud you for it. I'm glad that you ask and please feel free to ask any other questions. The problem with the really fast burning powders is that they take up so little space that most cases will hold a double or even triple charge. Many reloaders choose the more bulky powders to avoid this. I would not abandon fast burning powders but just be aware that over charges are possible when using them.
 
I have a scale and when I put it to gn, how come it doesnt have a decimal when I try to weigh the powder? I know its probably a cheap digital scale but that is whats confusing me
 
mdi said:
Could you tell us what make and model scale you're using? It can just be a need to set the weight (oz., g, gr, gn, etc,)...
Click to expand...
Ive had this cen-tech digital scale laying around and I asked a gun sales person at sportsmans warehouse if any digital scale would work and he told me yes but when I tried to weigh the powder in gn there's no decimal in the weight! and to me that don't seem right
 
Driftertank said:
If it's not specifically a reloading scale, perhaps meant as a trade scale, then tenths of a grain may be considered irrelevant. As such it's pretty much useless for handloading.
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Yea i kind of had a feeling..thank you
 
Yep. You need something that weighs to the .1 grain. Lots of reasonably priced options, but will take more than $10. Cheaper than hand surgery though.
 
Really sound like you need a scale.
BDS had a good thread on Myth busting Digital scale here, might want to take a look at it.
Lots of scale reviews here as well

I have 3 different scales, a GEM20 (weighs tiny amount well, accurate to .015gr) sensitive to air, small pan, use it every now and then.
A RCBS 5-0-5 beam reloading scale, acurate to .1gr, use it when I am trickling charges and as a check of either of the other two.
Frankford DS750 about $27, accurate to .1 gr, what I use most often when checking pistol charges. (need to make sure it has good batteries)
Available lots of places, "reloading scale"


Check weights-you need some.
https://www.amazon.com/American-Wei...&qid=1516845408&sr=1-1&keywords=check+weights
Some inexpensive ones with weights in the range you would use for pistol charges.(and heavier) $12
Note on the check weights
Weights are class M2 (there are better, more expensive ones)
Allowed tolerance on a 100mg (1.5432gr) M2 weight is 1.6mg or .02gr, (hope I got my math right here, g=grams, mg = milligrams, gr = grains, powder is weighed in gr)
M2 Allowed 5mg on 5g or about .08gr on a 77gr weight (still less than .1 but starting to get to be more of a concern at the heavier end of the range)
Accurate enough IMO.
https://www.oiml.org/en/files/pdf_r/r111-1-e04.pdf
(M1 is better, F classes better still, E class better than F, more accurate = more $)

So allowance on a 100mg 1.54 gr M2 weight would be 1.52-1.56gr, not perfect and there are better for more $ but close enough as most reloading scales accuracy is .1gr.

Ok after the bla bla above, the important thing is
get a good scale and a scale calibration weight that is say 50g does not tell you if the scale is weighing 5gr charges correctly.
 
With a good grain scale even the slightest movement will drive the readout crazy.
 
Dudedog said:
Really sound like you need a scale.
BDS had a good thread on Myth busting Digital scale here, might want to take a look at it.
Lots of scale reviews here as well

I have 3 different scales, a GEM20 (weighs tiny amount well, accurate to .015gr) sensitive to air, small pan, use it every now and then.
A RCBS 5-0-5 beam reloading scale, acurate to .1gr, use it when I am trickling charges and as a check of either of the other two.
Frankford DS750 about $27, accurate to .1 gr, what I use most often when checking pistol charges. (need to make sure it has good batteries)
Available lots of places, "reloading scale"


Check weights-you need some.
https://www.amazon.com/American-Wei...&qid=1516845408&sr=1-1&keywords=check+weights
Some inexpensive ones with weights in the range you would use for pistol charges.(and heavier) $12
Note on the check weights
Weights are class M2 (there are better, more expensive ones)
Allowed tolerance on a 100mg (1.5432gr) M2 weight is 1.6mg or .02gr, (hope I got my math right here, g=grams, mg = milligrams, gr = grains, powder is weighed in gr)
M2 Allowed 5mg on 5g or about .08gr on a 77gr weight (still less than .1 but starting to get to be more of a concern at the heavier end of the range)
Accurate enough IMO.
https://www.oiml.org/en/files/pdf_r/r111-1-e04.pdf
(M1 is better, F classes better still, E class better than F, more accurate = more $)

So allowance on a 100mg 1.54 gr M2 weight would be 1.52-1.56gr, not perfect and there are better for more $ but close enough as most reloading scales accuracy is .1gr.

Ok after the bla bla above, the important thing is
get a good scale and a scale calibration weight that is say 50g does not tell you if the scale is weighing 5gr charges correctly.
Click to expand...
Ok thank you for all the info. It is all helpfull
 
I have a question, I'm a beginner and some 165 gr. cast bullets were given to me. Ive tried to look up on how much tite group I should use cause that is all I have at the moment. Any suggestions would be helpful
 
First and foremost, a scale is the least of your worries at this stage. With all due respect, you seriously need to bury your nose in a book or 3 for a few nights.
I'd read each, two or three times.

54NkDee.jpg 1nxnB0B.png


https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Modern-Reloading-Format/dp/B000N8OKAU
and
https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-99240-Handbook-10th-Applicable/dp/B01MAUZ71V

Then ask questions. Then find a mentor.
Once you feel as though you have a firm grasp on the reloading concept, buy a proper reloading scale:
toY58p7.png

https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-5010...&qid=1517966376&sr=8-2&keywords=hornady+scale

If you prefer a manual scale:
https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Mechani...TF8&qid=1517966857&sr=1-1&keywords=rcbs+scale

THEN.... you can take the cap off that powder jug!

Be safe. You only have one set of digits.
 
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I appreciate your input.With all due respect I have a handbook and I have read it a couple of times but it doesn't tell me much. I have the richard lee ordered online cause I cannot find it anywhere.
 
What I'll do is set the powder drop
then throw 5-6 charges to get things evened out.
weight charge...make adjustments..
then throw another few. Repeat

Once I'm happy with my settings.

I'll throw ten charges into the pan
this should give me a good idea of the error rate.
 
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