What is the worst revolver you have ever owned?

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My worst revolver was a blues 2” Model 10 S&W that I bought off GB. The seller (a regular GB seller from the Houston area) listed it as a .38 Spl.

When I got It I didn’t realize this was one of the .38 S&W Victory models that had been polished and reblued.... and unbenounced to me also had the cylinder punched out to accommodate the longer .38 Spl cartridge. The chambers weren’t all “bubbaed” so the rechambering job wasn’t obvious.... until I fired the first six rounds and each shot split the cases to fit the .38S&W chamber diameter and wedged them in the cylinder!

I would have dumped that one too. I can't abide by a reamed out 38 S&W "conversion".
In fact , I once had one , I quickly got fed up with pounding out casings , and back it went.
 
Used Ruger Blackhawk 45LC with 4 5/8 barrel that i bought the day after my 21st birthday in 1986. Loved the idea of the single action in 45LC, even got a western belt/holster rig because I wanted to love that gun. Long story short.. it was horribly inaccurate and had a tendency to shave lead and spew hot powder at times.

Since that expierence all my hand guns have been purchased NEW and for single actions in 5.5" barrels and any caliber besides 45LC! Lol
 
Used Ruger Blackhawk 45LC with 4 5/8 barrel that i bought the day after my 21st birthday in 1986. Loved the idea of the single action in 45LC, even got a western belt/holster rig because I wanted to love that gun. Long story short.. it was horribly inaccurate and had a tendency to shave lead and spew hot powder at times.

Since that expierence all my hand guns have been purchased NEW and for single actions in 5.5" barrels and any caliber besides 45LC! Lol
Did you run a range rod in barrel to check cylinder alignment and then if off, contact RUGER? Just curious.
 
Did you run a range rod in barrel to check cylinder alignment and then if off, contact RUGER? Just curious.
Keep in mind this happened 33 years ago.. yes I did call Ruger and the person I spoke to told me to have my FFL ship it to them, they would "look at it" and any and all repairs needed I would have to pay for, including shipping both ways since this was a used gun and I bought it second hand. To a 21yr old who was not making a lot it was easier to trade to something else than go thru all the hassel. Fast forward 33yrs of firearms expierence and way more money it would be an easy task to make that gun shoot.
 
Yep, same by me. Mine also had a cylinder hand that was worn down short and did not push the cylinder far enough forward. This meant the cartridge case mouth did not receive proper support, and cracked open on every shot. This meant you needed something to use like small hammer to knock the cases out with the ejector rod. Fun!

It's not the hand but the separate moving breech that wedges the cylinder forward fully by pushing against the cartridge base. Nagant design is very forgiving to timing problems, if everything works properly. Even the most crudely wartime made pieces won't spit anything and they give proper gas seal. Also, a Nagant in decent condition is mechanically just as accurate as any service pistol of its time, or more. I've won a couple of small matches against Lugers and Lahtis with mine. Because of ergonomics it's just not easy to shoot well. And of course the DA pull is awful, that's the price one have to pay for the gas seal mechanism. The SA pull can be made considerably lighter by placing e.g. a small nut between the frame and the trigger leg of the "V" spring.
 
I'd have to say it's my S&W 317 "Kit Gun" with 3" barrel.

After a few hundred firings and several cleanings, I noticed the finish was starting to peel off the muzzle of the barrel. I sent it back to S&W, which re-applied the Klear Kote finish (or whatever they use on that firearm), with an admonishment from the tech support guy to stop using "abrasive cleaners" on it. Geez -- all I used was ol' Hoppes #9 and cleaning patches. o_O Since getting the gun back, all I use is gun oil on it now.

The 317 also always fired off to one side, so I had to adjust the rear sight pretty much all the way to center it. It was only on closer inspection (I was looking at a multitude of guns at the time, and not paying sufficient attention) that I noticed the barrel was improperly screwed to the frame so that the front sight and rear sight didn't align. I've been too lazy to send it back again, so just use the rear sight to adjust proper windage... o_O

The revolver's not horrible by any means -- but given the couple of glitches it has experienced, I'd have to say it qualifies as my "worst."
 
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My worst was my first. Bought it on my 21st birthday, a Taurus Model 83, in nickel, just like this one. Great looking gun, very well done nickel plating. A very bad gun.
taurus83a.jpg
I bought it on the advice of a family friend, a retired NYPD Sgt living in Las Vegas. I took it home and cleaned it, and noticed right away that the cleaning brush seemed to stick about 2/3rds down the barrel. I thought, wrongly, that maybe it would smooth out with use. It did smooth out, with the insane amounts of lead that it ripped off bullets as you shot it. In six shots, it was loaded, and the lead had to be pounded out of it. The rifling was all messed up. The timing was a mile off, and it spit pretty badly. Off to Taurus it went, and when it came back the timing issue was fixed, but the barrel was still a mess. I sent it back again, and Taurus determined that the barrel was "fine". I don't think a barrel that leads up in six shots or rips off jackets is "fine". I bought a Dan Wesson 15-2 when the Taurus went off to FL the first time, and when they sent it back again without fixing the real problem, I sold it to a guy who didn't care about the barrel issues. Good riddance. When the family friend saw the DW, he actually claimed the Taurus was a much better gun! I stopped listening to his advice on guns at that point. I haven't owned a Taurus revolver since then, but I have had no problems with their semiautos.
 
I've been pretty lucky with revolvers, no actual lemons. Long guns and semi-auto pistols, different story.

I did have an Iver Johnson Cadet 55-S that didn't shoot to point of aim. It seemed to be decently built, and looked to be in new condition but it shot ~1-2 feet high at 15 feet no matter what ammo was used.......

I sold it at a small profit with full disclosure.
 
Taurus 94. Cylinder locked up after a few rounds and the adjustable sights would not stay in place.

While it was well made - a SW 651 22 mag. 50 rounds would jam it solid with residue from firing. That's a fault of the ammo in a handgun. The gun was nice.
 
Taurus 94. Cylinder locked up after a few rounds and the adjustable sights would not stay in place.

While it was well made - a SW 651 22 mag. 50 rounds would jam it solid with residue from firing. That's a fault of the ammo in a handgun. The gun was nice.


did you ever try different loads in the 22 mag to see if that would help?
 
No, not intensively. Tried a few different brands and this was so long ago, that I can't remember details. Sorry about that. There are more defensive oriented 22 mag revolver ammo around now. I finally settled on a 22 LR Bearcat single action for just plinking in the 22s.

There was nothing wrong with the gun mechanically, but goo jamming is a common report with the 22 mag guns. Folks report it with the newer ones like the 351s but respectable folks do carry them as pocket guns. Not to divert this thread.
 
No, not intensively. Tried a few different brands and this was so long ago, that I can't remember details. Sorry about that. There are more defensive oriented 22 mag revolver ammo around now. I finally settled on a 22 LR Bearcat single action for just plinking in the 22s.

There was nothing wrong with the gun mechanically, but goo jamming is a common report with the 22 mag guns. Folks report it with the newer ones like the 351s but respectable folks do carry them as pocket guns. Not to divert this thread.


I was curious, as I have a Ruger convertible and never had any trouble, even when I shot many rounds for silhouette....
 
GEM & Merle1,
My RUGER ss single six convertible gets increasing hard to chamber Federal auto match after a couple of hundred rounds. No problem with ejection.
But it’s fine after a Hoppes scrub a dub!
Just info
 
It's not the hand but the separate moving breech that wedges the cylinder forward fully by pushing against the cartridge base. Nagant design is very forgiving to timing problems, if everything works properly. Even the most crudely wartime made pieces won't spit anything and they give proper gas seal. Also, a Nagant in decent condition is mechanically just as accurate as any service pistol of its time, or more. I've won a couple of small matches against Lugers and Lahtis with mine. Because of ergonomics it's just not easy to shoot well. And of course the DA pull is awful, that's the price one have to pay for the gas seal mechanism. The SA pull can be made considerably lighter by placing e.g. a small nut between the frame and the trigger leg of the "V" spring.

Thanks for clearing that up, ojh. I had how the Nagant works wrong, and I hate spreading misinformation. The gas-seal design does give the advantages in regard to timing and lack of spitting that you mention, in exchange for its complication and massive DA trigger pull. Your advice about reducing the SA pull is very interesting!
 
High Standard Sentinel and a High Standard Double Nine. The Sentinel shot about 18” high at 25 yards and the Double Nine couldn’t keep half the shots on a sheet of paper.
 
Taurus 85CH. Cylinder gap was too tight, and would bind after the first cylinder fired.

Had my FFL send it to Miami, but it was stolen en route. Good riddance.

Used the insurance payoff to buy a 3" S&W Centennial. What a contrast! Junk versus elegance and quality.

I've never fraternized with Taurus since.
 
Taurus 85CH. Cylinder gap was too tight, and would bind after the first cylinder fired.

Had my FFL send it to Miami, but it was stolen en route. Good riddance.

Used the insurance payoff to buy a 3" S&W Centennial. What a contrast! Junk versus elegance and quality.

I've never fraternized with Taurus since.
You lucky dawg!!!!!
 
Besides the obvious poor performing used Roehms that I had, I had a Colt Police Positive that did not have the barrel properly torque and shot the barrel loose within a few shots. A big disappointment was a .32 S&W Long Korth that had the forcing cone cut wrong. A $6,000 revolver should not have that! Shot like crap at 25 meters, it's the bullet holes with the blue circles.

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I had all but forgotten my very first center fire revolver. It was a 6" nickel model 27 S&W in a presentation case. The year was 1984. I had been saving for a handgun and came across it (used) at my LGS. I bought it and some ammo and went home to shoot it. To my disappointment it wouldn't always stand cocked. When it did stand cocked, you could push the hammer with your thumb, and it would fall.
I returned to the gun shop and traded it for a NIB .357 Blackhawk.
Looking back, I should have kept it and sent it to S&W for repair. It was a beauty.
 
An FIE (I think.) I do remember that the model is called a "Titanic." Who names a gun after an epic disaster? Who BUYS a gun named after an epic disaster?? Me. I bought it online a couple of years ago because it was $89. I paid too much. It's a .32 and the pin removes to load and empty the cylinder, or you can use a stick to poke the empty shell casings out from the cylinder, as there's an adequate space do do so in the recoil shield.

It had light strikes but I fixed that with a spacer under the main coil spring. The cylinder pin works it's way out as you shoot, so if you push the cylinder pin back in after every shot or two, the gun won't malfunction. Problems solved!
 
An FIE (I think.) I do remember that the model is called a "Titanic." Who names a gun after an epic disaster? Who BUYS a gun named after an epic disaster?? Me. I bought it online a couple of years ago because it was $89. I paid too much. It's a .32 and the pin removes to load and empty the cylinder, or you can use a stick to poke the empty shell casings out from the cylinder, as there's an adequate space do do so in the recoil shield.

It had light strikes but I fixed that with a spacer under the main coil spring. The cylinder pin works it's way out as you shoot, so if you push the cylinder pin back in after every shot or two, the gun won't malfunction. Problems solved!

I'm pretty sure it was actually called the FIE Titan Tiger, not Titanic. But a lot of them had problems. I had an FIE blank gun that didn't work well either. I took it apart to smooth up the insides and was able after a few tries to get it working pretty well.
 
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