https://www.fieldandstream.com/gun-maintenance-all-about-gun-oil-lube-and-grease/
He says even the new stuff, keep it off your bolt gun trigger.
He says even the new stuff, keep it off your bolt gun trigger.
Entertaining article... but I'm not sure it really informed much. Grease for preventing wear, oil for finer mechanisms and overall for rust prevention, leave the lube out of the trigger group. That's about it.https://www.fieldandstream.com/gun-maintenance-all-about-gun-oil-lube-and-grease/
He says even the new stuff, keep it off your bolt gun trigger.
Entertaining article... but I'm not sure it really informed much. Grease for preventing wear, oil for finer mechanisms and overall for rust prevention, leave the lube out of the trigger group. That's about it.
I seem to see lots of gun oil threads, and they recur with regularity. So far, not much new under the sun!
News to me.My point was....dont oil bolt gun triggers.
Even w new mo betta stuff of today.
Ive been using Mobil One (30wt) for a number of years now, and it works great.Been reading more about just using Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil, anybody use it and can say if it's just as good or better compared to regular gun oils?
I’m trying to imagine a lubricating oil you can buy today that isn’t up to the task of keeping a gun working, and I’m not having much luck except MAYBE for extremely viscous stuff like sewing machine oil.
Having said that, I will take this opportunity to plug the stuff that was recommended to me by an old NG Armorer 25+ years ago:
2 parts ATF
1 part STP
1 part Mobil1 synthetic (I used straight 30 wt)
The original quart I mixed up still has a tiny bit left but I have used it almost exclusively since sometime in the early 90s. The ATF gives it good penetrating qualities, the Mobil1 resists high temps well, and the STP gives it the ability to cling to wear surfaces well.
Sewing machine oil isn't viscous. It's VERY thin.
Ed's Red lube:
2-Quarts Synthetic Motor Oil.
1-Quart Automatic Transmission Fluid. Brand and spec don't matter.
1-Bottle of original STP. The blue bottle.
1-7 oz. jar of Hoppe's #9
+1Why would you want Hoppes in a lubricant?
I think youve touched on the key word here, and with anything, that word being "excessive".Ive had a trigger freeze up in the cold on me when I was just a lad. I learned early on not to leave excessive oil on trigger parts. It was a Jaeger trigger on a commercial Mauser. It was about 9 degrees outside.
The “non” must have been eaten by autocorrect. Sewing machine oil has about the viscosity of water.
Why would you want Hoppes in a lubricant?
These days, I mostly use Mobil One for oil/lube, and it seems to work just as well as the high dollar gun specific lubes, and at a fraction of the cost.
Ive been using Mobil One (30wt) for a number of years now, and it works great.
Ed's Red was originally supposed to be a sort of CLP type product which would account for there being some "cleaner" type ingredients in it.Why the Hoppe’s #9. Wouldn’t that break down the lubricant a bit?
I use Mobil 1 (5W30 EP that I buy for my car) on the AR, and before that I used it on a SAR-1 (Romanian AK) I had. Vastly better lubrication than Rem Oil, and much more resistant to “drying out” over time. It also made cleaning the AR a matter of “disassemble, wipe parts with a paper towel, re-oil and reassemble”; no more carbon caking.Been reading more about just using Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil, anybody use it and can say if it's just as good or better compared to regular gun oils?