Using automotive products when tumbling brass

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Why does Nu Finish seem to be the overwhelmingly preferred automotive product of the portion of reloaders that use automotive products? Why are Mother's, Turtle Wax, Meguiars, Griot's, Liquid Glass, Zymol and others so under-represented? I mean, in the automotive synthetic polymer sealant/protectant market, Nu Finish was a leading product in the 1970's. If there are better automotive paint finish sealant products on the market, why aren't reloaders that want to use Nu Finish considering them instead?

Maybe I should be clear about what Nu Finish is since Reed-Union misrepresents it. It is neither a wax nor a polish. It is not abrasive and does not smooth a surface. It is a synthetic polymer sealant, and no it does not practically last a year on your car. Interestingly enough Reed-Union is not an automotive products company (they were a paint and varnish company and Nu Finish was their one break-out product and still is) and they don't have any position in the professional car detailing market. Comparable products from leaders in consumer and professional car detailing would be Mother's Synthetic Wax (which is not a wax at all, but a sealant like Nu Finish), and Meguiars Ultimate Wax (also not a wax but a sealant), or Chemical Guys Micro Finish Factory Paint Sealant.

The automotive sealant products do not achieve a shine on brass, but they could possibly protect brass to some degree from tarnishing. Shine could be achieved to varying degrees with mechanical abrasive action of walnut shell, silicon carbide, stainless pins or with the chemical action of citric acid (lemishine) as examples.
Years ago a reloader had a bottle of Nu Finish in his hand while standing near his tumbler and though "I wonder...". It worked OK and he reported it on line. Somebody else tried it and soon it became "internet wisdom" that Nu Finish is necessary for tumbling, and that has been repeated thousands of times. I read some of those posts, and since I didn't have any Nu Finish, but did have an old bottle of Turtle Wax, I used that. Over the years have used several different additives including Pledge, JPW, and Museum Wax. My only use of any wax type additive to my media is to leave a very light film on my brass to retard tarnish...
 
I didn't have any Nu Finish, but did have an old bottle of Turtle Wax, I used that. Over the years have used several different additives including Pledge, JPW, and Museum Wax

So you have never used Nu Finish?!?!

Man, you don’t know what you’re missing!! :rofl:
 
I am going to go against the grain because I tried Nu Finish but did not really see any benefit. So I have a bottle sitting on my shelf that is about 95% full. With my rifle cases I noticed that when I tumble them the second time to remove the lanolin I use to resize that they come out perfectly shiny enough for my purposes. As far as pistol brass I only reload 9mm and I have so much brass that if I find one I don't like I just throw it away. I do put a small square of used dryer sheet in with the tumbling. Helps keep my media clean and my brass smelling fresh.
 
Nu Finish will not make brass shine. It is a sealant, not a polish. All it can do is ward off tarnish for a while. There are polishing additives like the FA product mentioned in #54, or Flitz Tumbler Media Additive, and so on. Those are chemical and abrasive brass polishes (don't use them on automotive paint finishes).

I probably need to get a dryer sheet or something to keep corn cob from flying out due to electrostatic charge. It literally leaps more than two feet out of my tumbler, and when I empty the tumbler into a 5 gallon bucket, it will jump clear out of the bucket and across the floor. At least I know it's dry. RH here can be single digits.
 
"I am going to go against the grain because I tried Nu Finish but did not really see any benefit". Yer right. I may have borrowed some and tried it (I certainly didn't buy a bottle) and saw no clear advantage...
 
I personally inspect every piece of brass. I take each one and hand polish it with a microfiber cloth and some Flitz. The interior surfaces are done with a Q Tip and hand polished. Each primer pocket is gently caressed with a new clean Q Tip. I then pace them in a velvet cushioned reloading block in a environmentally controlled sealed storage container.

This is either sarcasm or anal retentativeness
 
Walnut, tablespoon of turp or paint thinner, tanlespoon of NuFinish, dryer sheet cut 4 or 5 times, 2 hr in the vibratory...dryer sheet comes out black. No static...
 
Like a lot of folks I started off just wiping cases clean so they would not damage dies or weapons. Then I got a little Lyman tumbler in a trade and have been tumbling brass ever since. Any of the brass polishes form Dillon, Midway, Berrys, or NuFinish etc will work. Yes, the brass gets shiny, but, as pointed out, the best benefit is the light wax coating that keeps it protected and postpones the tarnish for a long time.
 
Not sure why an MSDS is considered "over reach". Every product used by the City of LA was accompanied by an MSDS, SOP. Several times I looked up the MSDS of a particular product out of curiosity, if there might be an interaction with the components I was working with, or if another product was identical (I checked the cable pulling lube used by the electricians and found it to be, IIRC, the same as Lee case lube). Just good, available info...
 
Thank you for reminding us of big brother's over reach in attempting to control everything to protect us fromourselves.


Say what??o_O

Just letting folks know what's in it.

It is space age clay in mineral spirits.

In a former job I was responsible for all MSDS and employee safety. It's good to know what you are playing with and some of the stuff we had was pretty nasty!
 
Say what??o_O

Just letting folks know what's in it.

It is space age clay in mineral spirits.

In a former job I was responsible for all MSDS and employee safety. It's good to know what you are playing with and some of the stuff we had was pretty nasty!

PS; Dr Pepper will kill you!:)
 
What I was inferring was, the amount of non- information or unavailable information in such a mandated govt multi page "report".

Multiplied by the number of required documents.

By the way, I don't believe there is a documented death from Dr Pepper.
 
For those of us who wet tumble, what's the best additive? I'm willing to rinse and run a second cycle, or if I can formulate one mix to clean and provide the shininess all in one go that would obviously be preferred.

Is the wax /polish effective diluted into a wet tumbler?
 
I use the Armour All Wash & Wax but some have reported that the Meguiar's being a good choice too. I have some 45acp brass that was cleaned 3 yrs ago that still has a good shine to it. It's tarnished very little over the years. I probably buy which ever is the cheaper. I think it's been proven any high teck polymer or wax will work. The wax also gives a little lubricant when using carbide dies.
 
Thank you for reminding us of big brother's over reach in attempting to control everything to protect us fromourselves.

You of course can go about living in the "dark"

You can clean your brass with Dr Pepper (or Cola) it has Phosphoric acid and works very well, just rinse well.
 
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