Recent content by bme27

Sorry I didn’t give more information about my rifle. It is a Featherweight, but it’s in an aftermarket, composite stock. I got a rough weight of it once with the Leupold scope that’s on it and I want to say it was around 8 pounds, but I could be wrong. I’ll have to double check in the morning.

Thanks for the info on the 308ME! Do you use either of the 160s Marlin offers for 30 cal? I thought about trying their 30-30 one since the 308ME designated one is never in stock anywhere. I have CFE-223 so I’ll try that powder first.

I will have to try that load out. The load I am prepping to do for it now is 120 grain Barnes TTSX over 59.5 grains of Superformance, found on Hodgdons website. But it seems everyone with a 280 loved 4831 so I will have to get a bottle of it.

Looking for some advice. I have a Winchester Model 70 in .280 Rem that I’m considering selling to buy something else. Biggest reasons are ammo/brass availability and weight. I just got into reloading and will working on a load for it if I decide to keep it (getting a load for my 308 Marlin...

Thank you all for the replies and help! Sorry I haven’t responded quicker, life has been crazy. I think I’ll look into reloading for it, see what Hornady and Hodgedon have for the 30 TC and go from there. In the end I might end up with a Tikka or Savage to build off of and sell the 30 TC.

So I have a Thompson/Center Icon chambered in their 30TC round. I have actually enjoyed the 30TC cartridge, but it can’t be reloaded to perform as well as the factory ammo. I feel this leaves me with two options: 1, buy a ton of factory ammo for it and sit on it or 2, rechamber the gun to a .308...

Thank you guys so much for your help and advice thus far. So my wife and I finally got our taxes filed, and the return is going to be enough to pay off the student loans! That frees up some cash, but I still want to build this slowly. I had been tempted to buy a complete lower and a complete...

Thank you all for the advice, it helps a lot! It seems like this will be better to do piece by piece instead of buying a 80%-100% lower and upper. I think that is the plan I will go with. I saw a stripped lower for sale on PSA for $30, maybe I'll start with it.

Thank you all for the advice. I do like the sound of forming a plan and figuring out which parts and pieces I want to use, plus that way I can keep the R15. My brother built an AR last year and has most of the tools so that will help with the cost as well.

So my dilemma is that I have one of the original Remington R-15s (I believe it was made by Bushmaster before they sold out, if I am wrong on that feel free to correct me). The gun shoots well, but I kind of have the itch to build an AR. I know the simple solution would be to keep this one and...

The reason I bought a .22-250 a couple years back was I love to coyote hunt all year when I am not doing any big game hunting and in my home state you are not allowed to carry a 6mm or larger rifle during big game season if you do not have a big game tag. That left me with the options of .204...

My go to coyote gun is a Tikka .22-250 that I used to kill a coyote at ~460 yards last summer. I have a vortex 4-12x scope with their dead hold BDC reticle, which I have used at a friends range to hit a license play at 525 yards to double check the holdovers the manual from Vortex recommended...

I like entropy have had great luck with an axis. I have a .243 that has cut clover leaves with federal blue box, I do reload but Walmart had the blue boxes on sale for $13 so I figured why not have it for my wife to learn to shoot with instead of my 55 gr coyote loads and they shot just as good...

As far as powder goes you should start with CFE223. It has worked great in the 308’s, and all cartridges for that matter, I have seen it tried it. Bullets for cheap I would look at Hornady A-max, but the ELDX are better if you want to pay the difference.

So this might be the wrong thread to post this in, but what benefits does the 327 give you over a 357?