Recent content by CJK8

It's odd the trigger would not be centered.

Looking up at the top of the trigger and bolt release button, there is no space on the right side of the trigger guard but there is on the left side. In other words, the trigger and bolt realease button are not centered in the trigger guard. Is that normal? Thanks.

My bad. I guess I wasn't paying close enough attention before the timney was installed. The bolt is dragging on the magazine. Thanks.

I had a gunsmith install a timney trigger in a remington 700. There is slight more resistance when lifting the bolt and just a slight bit of sticky drag when pulling the bolt back. Is the timney possible pushing against the bolt a little more with a tighter fit? Thanks.

Ok, then I don't understand why biged doesn't like feeler gauges and thinks that die will not be centered if I were to do the following. Place a feeler gauge with a thickness of .010" on top of the shell holder, raise the shell holder all the way up, screw the die down until it touches the...

I understand that the extra 1/8 turn is to ensure all play is taken out of the threads as that is why the instructions to the die say to make that 1/8 turn and have the press cam over. What I am struggling to understand is, if you put a .010" washer shim between the press and the die such that...

So with the newer safteies on the newer 700s, there is no reason to get the 501 instead of the 510 or vice versa. This is really an option if one has an older 700.

What I can't get my head around is this. That extra 1/8 of a turn when setting up the dies is so to have the press cam over. If I put a .010" shim washer between the die and the press, I would not think that that would make any difference in how much the die sizes the brass. I sized brass...

I am a little confused on why one would purchase a #501 without saftey vs a #510 with safety. The #501 requires use of factory safety and bolt release. Why would some get the 501 over the 510 and cause more work??? Thanks...

Well, I am still confused then. Back to my question: If I want to back the die out by the width of the shim, why would I want to set the die up with the shim in place first? Assuming I need to back the die out .004" and I set up the die first with say the .006" shim in place and the die...

I take it you don't buy into the partial FL resizing or at least don't see any difference in results.

I am thinking about purchasing one of the Skip's Die Shim Kits. The description above says "Dies should be setup with a shim in place (.006" or .007" is suggested for the original set up)." If I want to back the die out by the width of the shim, why would I want to set the die up with the shim...

I see the Basix trigger is a little cheaper than the timney? pro/cons between the two???? Thanks.

A friend of mine said he has installed timney triggers without having to inlet but has not tried one on this hogue stock. Also has said he has heard of people who have had to inlet. Any reason for the randomness????

I have a remington 700 SPS Tactical that has a Hogue stock. Shoots great with reloads. I am thinking of putting a timney trigger in it. I have read that you might need to inlet the stock and widen the trigger shoe. Anyone know if inletting the Hogue stock on this gun will be necessary...