Recent content by junior geezer

i have direct knowledge of a .380acp fired in a 9mm TT33 tokarev. commercial reloaded 9x19, one round of .380 in box of fifty. the round stripped from the mag and fired. the result: a broken firing pin. apparently, the firing pin first drove the cartridge forward to headspace; then the extended...

cast very hard, these are my bullets of choice, in both .38 spl and .357. i load over 5.5 gr Green Dot for my 6" .38 spl; an excellent .38-44 loading. shoots right at 1070fps and is SO MUCH more mild on the gun than the "late 60s" (speer 8) SR4756 loadings. i also load for the 200gr LRN in...

to this i couldn't agree more. have a nice day

sorry, fireflyfather, but of course it is possible to partial re-size using a fl die. and a LOT easier to neck size for a beginner? hardly. and also be aware the OP DID INDEED mention mosin--reread his 2nd post this thread. and yes, it was you who mentioned dragunov. so?

they certainly do crack. and all but guaranteed to produce a through-and-through wound.

since you cite "mauser" and "mosin," you won't req small base sizers. in fact you probably won't even need to full-length resize. as long as you are reloading cases once-fired in your own rifles, all you should need to do is "partially" resize. buy the lee hand press and std full length dies.

fallout was the least of the M65 firing crew's problems... the crew was supposed to first dig a safety hole, to escape into to avoid the warhead's BLAST. they were to fire; then jump into their hole, to allow the blast to pass over them. the only US weapon ever considered where the "lethal to...

just supposing but since you reference two cf rifle calibers, you probably aren't going to be needing as many rounds at range fire as you would were you loading for a handgun; therefore i pretty much agree with jfdavis58 and would go for the lee hand press. i've had one many years now and still...

not certain you're addressing my comments, BCRider, but if you are: cylindrical... i guess. elongated and with added bearing surface, certainly. i load over 28 gr fffg with an over-powder felt wad, so no apparent difference in pushing them in. they are of course pure lead. and no, no more added...

i've purchased numerous replacement wedges for my replica M1860 from DGW, and have never been disappointed.

i use .490" ("50 cal") buffalo bullet round balls in my 1860 replica army. i re-size to about .457" in a gutted "mauser" case sizer die (.308, '06, whatever, they all will work), remove, reverse and resize again (to remove taper); then final-size to .451". they come out weighing around 175gr...

i had a M49 just when they came out. also had a .310 cadet and loved (still do) the martini action. the only time i ever fired the M49 was for a comparison test, .22lr v .22l. fired into michigan ice, a friend insisting the two rounds were identical power-wise. the test changed his mind...

i've never heard of stainless steel caps either. i do have stainless steel after-market nipples in my rep 1860 army. purchased them several many years ago and don't know if they are still to be had. they work fine with any #11 cap i've tried. uncle mike's mfg.

it doesn't figure for me. a knife is a one-handed tool. why should someone be required to use two hands just to put a one-handed tool into operation?

i shoot cast bullets exclusively; haven't fired a jacketed bullet in years. i have an SKS "paratrooper" with a shortened barrel and shoot 160gr GC cast very hard. they work perfectly.