Recent content by Lone Star

Pocket clips often lead to lost knives. And I don't like how they feel in the hand.

Maybe I've been lucky, but I've never had a problem with a stainless Ruger or S&W binding on me. S&W moved the gas ring in some models to prevent that, and I don't think Rugers ever had the issue. Actually, I've heard of this only in .357 S&W's, not in .38's, which generate less heat. What ammo...

I'd call Speer for the latest info. They've been very helpful to me in the past.

The full lug six-inch barrels make the guns pretty heavy. I'd look for a used GP that had the half lug barrel (discontinued?) , or a Security-Six or a S&W M-66. A four-inch barrel is handier and I'd add the S&W M-686 and GP-100.. I'd def. prefer a stainless gun over a blued or nickel one. My...

Where are you looking? The catalog? Some dealer's stock?

Well, a Model 10-5 IS a Model numbered gun. Post 1957. The factory says they're okay with Plus P. By the time you've fired thousands of Plus P rounds, you may see the timing and cylinder endshake issues we've mentioned. What I warned about was guns so old that they may not have even had heat...

t boom boom- I've been around awhile, and in 1966, wrote to S&W re safety in firing .38-44 ammo in a Model 10/M&P. Sales Manager Fred Miller replied, saying that it wouldn't blow up the gun, but if I anticipated the need to fire many such loads, I should buy a .357 or a designated .38-44...

I think you'll like the Grippers. I have a set on my Ruger GP-00. They fit my hand better than Hogues. On S&W K-frame guns, I prefer Pachmayr Presentation or Uncle Mike's grips. The latter are no longer made, but can still be found new in boxes.

Looks good, and probably feels better! I agree that a finish should probably be applied over the stain. Do you have any idea which wood that is?

These frequent Plus P threads are dangerous. First, Plus P use all the time will result in cylinder endshake occurring sooner, and is unnecessary. Plus P is for killing things. You don't need that power for tin cans, most small game or targets. Use of Plus P will especially accelerate wear in...

What I've never seen discussed on a gun board is that gunfighters like the celebrated "Jelly" Bryce used .44's that probably had factory ammo with 246 grain bullets. That was what was sold in stores, and if he handloaded, I've never seen that mentioned . Elmer Keith and others used hot .44 loads...

Yes, certainly I meant at the bottom of the black. Once you see where the gun is shooting, you can compensate. Maybe I should have just said that the sights are supposed to be "on" at 15 yards with 158 grain bullets. It'd have saved me a lot of typing... This isn't rocket science. Once you...

lideally I used the 25 yard sort. I'm sure the 50 foot size will suffice. A six o'clock hold is on the bottom of the bullseye. The bullets will then ideally hit center. This is with 158 grain loads. Lighter, faster bullets have less dwell time in the bore and will hit lower, as the barrel has...

I was told by a CIA operative who had a considerable number of S&W revolvers and who had friends at the factory who got him special guns that the .38 and .357 revolvers are supposed to hit the bullseye at 15 yards with a six o'clock hold. I've found that to be generally true. I'm speaking of...

I hope they make traditional old Remington styles. I'd have to see how long the handles are on the sheath knives, like a RH-36 style. I won't buy a current Remington gun or their .22 ammo, but a Buck-made knife in old Remington patterns definitely interests me. I wondered if Remington would...