The only trouble with that, (fortunately or unfortunately) is now you will see how dirty the bore really is. I do a LOT more cleaning ever since I got a bore scope. But at least I know the condition of the bore. I consider a bore scope a necessity when cleaning my guns. I use the Teslong bore...
Why handloaders use pins for their cleaning process is beyond me. Why take the chance of having a pin do damage to a firearm. Why have the pins do peening damage to the brass. Is it that much more important to have super shiny brass?
I agree except I shoot 5 rounds. But his method is correct, IMO. Preliminary testing will indicate if the combination has promise. If so then load up more of that load and verify it was not a fluke.
Yeah, that could happen. But borescopes really help when it comes to cleaning. You'll probably change your cleaning routine giving more attention to the first 10" of the bore. That's where I found most of the fouling.
Insert the longest case you have into the chamber and insert a borescope into the muzzle. You will see how much case length you can accommodate before you have to trim. Just be sure you allow for case stretch. Every gun will be different.
I don't know what the cause was but with what Glock told the OP, "They offered him a new frame for $100 dollars , or a new pistol for $400 dollars ." I would have told them that sending him a new pistol FOR FREE would be cheaper that a lawsuit. And the bad publicity won't help Glock either.
I put my brushes in a plastic prescription bottle half filled with alcohol. Shake it for 5-10 seconds and the brushes and mops come out clean.
But I will be trying the H2O and Dawn method.
A mentor is probably the best way to learn to do anything...provided they know what they're doing. They can also tell you what equipment to buy and, most importantly, tell you what not to buy. Lyman makes a few good casting books. DON'T BUY JUNK! Buy quality, proven equipment and you'll only...
Tempilaq is good to see how if the case is heating up to the proper temp and how far down the case the heat goes. I use 650*. I want the necks to just start to turn red before the case moves out of the flame. There are numerous You Tube videos on this subject. What annealer did you get?
To prevent the brass from banging against the blades in the drum, I wrapped them with cardboard. This prevents the brass from damage. Just fill the drum with media so that it is close to spilling out and then add the brass. You can play around with the brass/media ratio. I leave mine in for 2...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.