Recent content by merlynski

Hot distilled water, citric acid, Simple green, tumble, rinse with hot distilled water. (I use an old coffee percolator with no guts in it to heat the water.) Sift out then Tumble out the pins, dump brass on a towel, let dry overnight, tumble out the last few pins

Yup, liquid lube or wax on the fingers, or spray to get case necks, shoulders and inside neck if expanding bottle necks.

I have not yet loaded a squib, or had a primer I seated fail to fire. I did have a .357Mag round stick a bullet in the barrel, but it was one of 2 rounds my "Mentor" at the time gave me and said 'here try these' The first one made a funny noise, I cranked back the hammer (Ruger Blackhawk) on...

Which powder are you using? Primer?

Hand priming was the first change I made after I got my Rockchucker press. Press priming was slow and clumsy. The Lee Auto Prime (round tray), for me, was heaven by comparison. I could feel the seating quality of each primer in each case, and is much faster. My next addition was the little metal...

5 or 500, its single stage. Rockchucker for heavier jobs, Lee C press for light duty like decapping.

The only time I don't stop is between seating primers, dropping powder, and seating bullets. I am likely to take a break between or during other case prep or bullet making steps. I do try not to leave brass in the wet tumbler's citric acid solution very long after it finishes its tumbling run...

Mossberg 500 12ga., Hunting (long barrel, bird, buck or slug) & Close Social Work (short barrel) 357 Maximum Contender, scoped, medium and big game and medium-longer range Social Work .22 Rimfire, rifle (10/22, or Nylon 66) OR revolver (Single Six, or S&W Mod 34) for small game, entertainment...

41 Magnum, 30 Herrett, 222 Remington, everything else, just 1 or 2 boxes for instant gratification . . .

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/where-are-reloading-components-available-not-a-discussion-thread-link-required.883031/page-45#post-12077491

An Uberti replica of a Colt 36 cal Army cap and ball revolver. It was just poor quality. That was in the mid 70s. Every other one I ever parted with I regret . . .

Slug the bore and the cylinder throats to see if there is even a chance it will be possible to find a correct bullet. Then find a bullet that goes well with those measurements. Then pick a powder and starting load.

Look up the serial number on the Ruger website: Serial Number Lookup

I like to have music playing while I reload. It keeps the ADD part of my brain busy, so I can pay proper attention to the reloading process with the rest of my (OCD) brain and my hands. If I don't have the music going I get distracted by thinking about other things than the reloading process.

The .357 Mag case is a straight wall case of .379" diameter, the 9mm is a slightly tapered case, .380 at the mouth to .391 near the case web/head. The .357 Mag die may have already sized it smaller than nominal. Get out your calipers and measure them. The difference at the mouth is only 0.001...