Recent content by shinz

I seldom have to anneal more than a packet or two of brass at a time & prefer a low key approach. Propane torch on the work bench, 2 litre icecream container half full of water beside it, hold brass by base in fingers vertically with neck up & twirl in blow torch flame till its too hot to hold...

To begin with I shot Norma factory 150 grainers, in it, mostly at the range but it effectively anchored a few red deer years ago when I used to get out more before the demands of family & job slowed me up a bit. I was never that happy with the way the Normas damaged meat though. I've tried some...

The 7x64 & the 280 are close enough that 280 data can be used in a 7x64 & indeed some manuals, certainly in this part of the world lump the 2 together. 7x64s, being European, can often have a longer throat & so are a bit less liable to high pressures with 280 data & the 280 is loaded to lower...

Hi Kerf, mine was also a 7x57 originally but the barrel was well shot out so I had it rebarrelled to 257 Roberts (257x57) ;), it makes for a nice little rifle, its my go to the last few years( decades :( ) These came in three action lenths, long,30-06,medium, 7x57 & short, 222rem, they also came...

Yes, its what I use to pull .303 British bullets, the same diameter as the 7.62x54. Steve.

I've had considerable success taking off the remains of primer crimps, both annular & stab with a case neck chamfer tool like this.https://a248.e.akamai.net/f/248/9086/10h/origin-d4.scene7.com/is/image/GanderMountainOvertons/424775_L1?$product$ +1 on the recommendation for a Lee decapping die...

When we're talking neck splits here, are we talking longitudinal splits ot annular cracks around the neck shoulder junction? Thanks. Steve.

Belling case mouths is normally only done for loading caste bullets. It should be sufficient to champfer the inside of the case mouth with a case mouth champfer tool which should be on every reloaders bench,the Lee one does a decent job & costs very little, the machined steel ones like this one...

That #4 is superb, you really did get down on some good stuff there, you lucky thing, you....:D Steve.

BSA Royal or Hunter, depending on what part of the world you're in. I've a couple, I find the easiest wat to remove the bolt is to decock the rifle by turning the bolt down while holding the trigger back then lift the bolt handle & remove the bolt to the rear without releasing the trigger. Nice...

I think the important thing with most any rifle caliber, not just belted magnums is to resize to the minimum amount. True neck sizing uses a special neck size die whereas the advice given to adjust your dies to resize the bare minimum amount using a marker pen as in post #2 leads to much less...

It surely appears to be a genuine #5. Another identifier to those that Rondog has pointed out is the rear sight has graduations only (?) ;) out to 800 yds, the #4s went to 1300yds. I'd be happy to call that genuine. Steve.

For an easy way to overcome recoil on a No.5 without affecting its originality, ie, it can be put back to original, see a thread I made herehttp://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=591979. Something too that no-one else has mentioned afaik is that No.5s were painted rather than blued or...

That looks to me like a ruger medium sporter. Any rings from the drop down menu after you select Ruger No.1 for any of the sporters will fit. If you work your way thru the options you will notice that rings for relatively normal scopes are the same & end with B depending on height, the stainless...

Loonwulf, I reckon your 2nd one is a 6x47, the 6mm version of the 222 Rem mag & GTscotty, I'm picking your left one is a 338-06. Sorry if these've have been answered already, by the bottom of page two I was totally confused as to who was referring to what hence I gave up on the rest. Thats my...