Recent content by SullyVols

This is a problem i suspected when I first shot it but as I've gotten better with it I'm convinced - one specific cylinder chamber is sending a bullet high. at 25 feet the round is about 6" high give or take. The only physical problem with this gun is a worn (I think it's called a Pawl) thing...

I would have to say the GP100 is the best value on the market nowadays. They have rougher yet lighter triggers than the modern smiths. That being said my two modern Smiths are OK after several trips back to factory. I really want a python too, but my model 19 is about as nice a gun as I'd...

I just re-re-checked it. The middle screw is sort of difficult to get down but not more so really than my newer S&W revolvers. It's no more really than the width of a hair so maybe I'm being OCD. The gun seems to function fine and is in time. I don't suppose I'm in danger if the sideplate...

Nope, just smacked it with the wooden handle of a hammer. I've done this before a few times with my other revolvers.

Just got a model 36 today. Don't know what the (-X) is but its a pinned barrel without recessed cylinders and is nickel plated. It was pretty gunked up so I took off the side plate, cleaned out the gunk with rem-oil, dryed it out and then rubbed down each piece with clp. After reassembling it...

S&W cut the forcing cone larger on my 629 and left tool marks in the steel. It's on center though. S&W isn't very competent at building or servicing their own guns but at least they are liable if they can't preform the work or damage your gun.

I've had no problems getting .357 and .44 magnum

Picked up my first AR-15 today. It's a S&W MP15 chambered for .223/5.56mm. There were a lot of choices but owning several S&W revolvers I at least know who I'm dealing with so I decided to go with them. I'm currently in the process of breaking it down for an initial cleaning and have it in...

I would have gladly payed the $650. Nice gun.

Biggest issue which may or may not effect function with current S&W revolvers it the barrel alignment. I've only seen a couple new Smiths in the last year that were not noticeably over/under-torqued.

Thanks - I wonder how the alloy steel works out. Dont know if I want a 2nd 629 or a 29.

All of mine have issues. Ruger GP100 and Smith 629 have both gone back twice.

Just got finished dissembling my 686. There is not obvious signs of wear or damage on the hand where it makes contact with the ratchet. There is some wear on the arm from where it is making contact with the frame however. Don't know if that means anything or not.

I don't know if there is anything to read into on this, but my model 19 (1973) and 629 (2013) both lock up immediately before the hammer drops. It's like a click-snap. My 686 locks up much earlier. It feels like it is locking up earlier in the trigger travel.

I finally found a thread on the Smith and Wesson forum with a similar problem on an older Model 10. Looks like if the cylinder/hand setup isn't quite right then the hand wears into the softer ratchet teeth. The machining is normal for a new S&W. I will ask a gunsmith but from what I've seen...