Recent content by theleo

Next year they'll probably come out with CFECREED.

It's my understanding that with the melting temp of antimony being higher than lead creates a situation that when you add it without some tin, it will reduce the diameter of the bullet dropping from the mould while still making it harder and lighter. If a guy hasn't been casting for several...

Because the more speed, the more splat. Speer makes 110gr TNT's and the mess they'd make of a rock chuck would be nothing short of spectacular. My personal experience with that bullet is when loading it to top end 280 velocities (was shooting them at 3,400 fps through my 280ai) it doesn't exit...

I use it for 357 and 38 loads. In my 3" model 60 .357 a load of 7.5 gr behind a 163 gr WFN gets me 1,080 FPS. My 38 load only gets me 680 fps with the same bullet, I don't remember the charge weight but it's plenty accurate when it's fed through my dad's 6" K38 for plinking at the range. Still...

The other option would be to get some tin from somewhere like Rotometals and add it in. If your sizing them you could just get an NOE mold as they are to drop at .460 to begin with. With 20 to 1 mine drop at .461.

It's a trapdoor, if you want to hot rod a 45-70 then get a Ruger #1. Even if the action could take hotter loads, I doubt that the barrel is nickel steel so it will eventually split with hot smokeless loads.

It's been around my neck of the woods pretty consistently for a while, I've gravitated away from it for the most part though.

I'd save the 308 brass for hunting as it's the larger more consistent lot. I'd load target practice loads or varmint loads in the 7mm-08 brass because it varies more. The reason for separating the brass that way is so with a quick look at the head stamp you'll know if it's practice rounds or...

Read as much you can on the castboolits forum as you can, 9mm requires a pretty hard bullet because of the pressure it uses. The rest of the guys pretty well covered everything for starting and castbbolits has many threads on more advanced questions. Have heard lots of good about the Lee 6...

You won't find differences in a .357 magnum pistol load and a .357 magnum rifle load. The reason being that SAAMI set the pressure limit (what companies and reloading manuals go by) for the .357 magnum cartridge it self. In rare cases you'll find loads in manuals with loads listed listed as...

What's the rifle? If it's a marlin with a micro groove barrel I wouldn't bother with feeding it lead. Some guys do, but for success they have to go with really hard lead and mess with different sizing for the bullets. Another thing I'd recommend is that you go with a RNFP bullet to avoid...

I reload for all of mine plus some family heirlooms in my dads gun safe. If I had a semi-auto I shot a lot, things might be different, but my pistols are a 44 special and a model 60 .357. Those only cost me about $5-$7.00/100 rounds, a couple of 32-20's in my dads gun safe are a bit cheaper, and...

I'm most comfortable with my rifle that uses a .284 caliber bullet. It and my timber thumper .338 caliber rifle will be staying home till I get one with a .459 caliber bullet.

For the velocity you'll get from a 30-06 the ELD-X would be a good one but, like you said, they're not easy to find. Another option you could go with instead of the target bullets that come apart, is with an Accubond LR. Nosler was nice enough to actually put load data specific to them on their...

You are more likely to screw up reloading the 44 mag to the point of catastrophic failure than you are the 45-70. A double charged 45-70 round is a lot easier to spot than a double charged mid range load in the 44 mag. The principles for both are pretty much the same. The 45-70 is just a longer...