Drop dead, undeniably gorgeous. What goes with it?

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Apologies for the newbie question, but why do you have to have it in a lighter, less-recoiling load? Does the burl of the wood negate its strength?

Beautiful piece of wood there, by the way.

Wes
 
ooooo...pretty.....What ever you put into it, if you have some left over to make grip panels and such... you should, so you can squeeze as much out of it as possible, because wood that nice deserves to be seen :D
 
Something in .243. Remmy, Whinny, Ruger. Whatever your fancy.

Looks like you got enough wood there to make some pistol stocks as well.
 
That wood is breathtaking and deserves the best. $10,000 budget, eh? Let's see what we can do...

1. Custom 98 Mauser action (Czech, maybe?)
2. 6.5x55 Swede chambering (handload for hot Swede-pills); best BBL you can afford, given other requirements; BBL length to depend on taste. Do you want it handy (20")? Or maybe squeeze the last bit of velocity out of the Swede (26")? Or all-around sporting arm (22")? (I'd suggest 22-26"); BBL contour to be moderate-not wispy-thin and not a monster BBL, but...just right
3. Schmidt-Bender scope, fixed 4X with post reticle; low-mount rings; maybe tally QD mounts
4. Quality aperture sight as back-up, flat-topped front-sight post; NOT a ghost ring and NOT a target aprture with large tgt knobs, however
5. Custom-made leather sling made from some beautiful, durable leather (perhaps Hippo?), preferably Ching-style 3-point
6. Single set trigger that breaks like the proverbial glass rod, set or not set
7. If you desire a recoil pad, have a leather lace-on job manufactured from the same leather as the sling and in the same style (tooling, etc)--Don't ruin such a wonderful piece of art in a gentle caliber with a vile hunk of rubber on the butt-end
8. Stock to NOT emulate a Weatherby--make it the anti-Weatherby--shoot for quality & class, not gauche & flash--let the materials and craftsmanship speak for themselves; No Monte-Carlo shenanigans, no clunky-looking cheek-pieces; just a straight stock that, when mounted, allows you an immediate cheek-weld and access to the low-mounted scope or aperture
9. A competant smith that convinces YOU he understands what you want from your rifle

Man Oh man! I want one!
 
That is a beautiful piece of furniture. It really harkens back to the days of classic quality wood. With that in mind, maybe you should think about creating a classic rifle in a classic caliber. Something useful, but that goes back to "the days of yore".

If it 'twere me, I'd pick up a quality Mauser action and have it barrelled for .257 Roberts. A classic rifle in a classic caliber.
 
Apologies for the newbie question, but why do you have to have it in a lighter, less-recoiling load? Does the burl of the wood negate its strength?
Yes. You generally want straight grain in the wrist area. Walnut burl is hard as a rock but it does some weird things under stress.

I'll go along with Dr. Rob, except I think the 1903 is a prettier action.

ducks...
 
Wood that pretty--you want a lot of it. It would make the world's most beautiful Garand. Or Enfield. Of course, then it would not be authentic.

Maybe a mauser action _is_ the way to go.
 
That is a beautiful piece of wood.

I just love a beautiful stock on about any rifle.

My vote for what should go in that georgeous piece of wood is a rifle that has the class to keep up with somthing that special, get a pre 64 Winchester Model 70 in a caliber that suits you.

Or I will Volunteer my 1949 Model 70 just in case you want that wood to go to a good home.
 
T & C;

I'm gonna vote with several others here. That wood screams for a classic European look. 6.5 Swede, & if the blank will do it, a Mannlicher stock. After all, the Swede carbine was short-barreled & you'd get to show off more of that gorgeous grain.

900F
 
Large ring Mauser in 7x57 in the style of the classic pre WWI sporters. Oval cheekpiece, side panels, lots of drop. Tapered octagon barrel with express rib and an ivory bead front sight.
 
Small ring Mauser
or
1903
or
pre 64 70 if you need a short action.
Blue
nice med weight sporter barrel
Swede 6.5

No glossy finish, just enough satin Waterlox tung oil to fill the grain and leave a smooth finish.
 
Tuner, you mean one like this?:D

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Yes, I had thought of a #1 - maybe a .270 Weatherby, which is a standard caliber for them.

I'd like to have a .45-70 #1, but I think it's a mite too hard kicking for the caliber.

By the way, who can recommend a good custom rifle builder in this neck of the woods?
 
Use a Sako action, barrel in 7x57.

With the Sako action you can get one of those cute little Sako detachable peep sights that fits the Sako dovetail on the receiver. Have a grip trap installed to store the peep in.

Shotgun styled long trigger guard.

Ebony fore end cap.

Lever release floor plate.

Double-set trigger.

Checker the bolt knob or go full-Euro with a spoon handle.

Use a barrel band for the front sling swivel.

Install a cartridge trap in the lower portion of the buttstock.
 
Sound thinking not to consider a heavy caliber. The grain pattern on the left side suggests to me that it wouldn't withstand heavy recoil.

I'd beat the bushes to find an Oregon Kimber in .22K-Hornet and turn it into a trim stalking rifle. The Mannlicher idea would be appealing if there was enough wood and it appears there is.

I'd put the package into the hands of a good riflesmith and turn him loose.

Paul
 
For single shots I prefer the lines of the Browning High-walls. They look great with a good piece of wood too and don't have the locking gizmo messing up the curves of the lever.

Octagonal or semi-octagonal barrel would be a nice touch too. Pick any old calliber but I'd love one in .223 or .243 WSSM as a contrast between the new and tradional. Plus recoil wouldn't be too bad.
 
At the expense of reviving an old thread, I just have to ask, what became of that beutiful piece of black walnut?
 
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