Squib - Stuck Bullet

First, dont ever consider firing a charge behind a stuck bullet in any form. Ever!. Secondly is the wood dowel still in the bore? It cant stay in their while you try to push the bullet back, nothing but misery that way. If no wood inplace then listen to the people that said use a bore fitting rod. Under the circumstance you have a 6" good quality 5/16" bolt(not the usual big box Chinee extract) grade five. Its readily available, just make sure the end is flat and square. Wrap it with electrical tape in 3 areas so it cannot contact the bore and just passes in the bore with light contact. Then as someone suggested get a solid piece of oak or locust that will pass thru the frame and support the end of the barrel.. Get someone to hold the firearm in place and use a real hammer, at least 24 ounce. The wood can be locked in the vice jaws or placed across a bridge of the jaws or up on solid wood blocks, be sturdy. Little hammers in such a situation just break things. A 32 0r even a 48oz is not unreasonable. The bigger hammer will move things where the little ones deform things. One or two solid thumps should have the bullet against the wood block, then a few gentle taps with the frame held in hand should drop the bullet in hand. If you try to support the frame most other ways you may distort it if heavy force is needed. Clamping the frame in a vice is not the most supportive way to hold it. With the block you avoid twisting or rotating the frame in a vice.
Now if the wood is still in the barrel then you have to try a different approach. Pulling the barrel will be the safest one, if you need to or decide to pm me.

These folks have what you need and are decent to deal with:

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/1016/1/ROD

Kroil penetrating oil. Let it sit overnight. Use the weight of the gun as your "hammer". Use a black taped bolt. Others have already said this. I just had my first. Letting it sit overnight with Kroil worked within 2 minutes when 3 earlier days of brute force did nothing.
That squib was a great learning tool for me.

FWIW, I had to go to Ace Hardware to find a brass rod large enough. Home Depot and Lowes didn't have them.

These large brass rods also come in handy for slugging barrels too.

Squirt Kroil in both ends. Remove cylinder and place frame in vice and tighten with copper protectors on the jaws. Use at least a 14 oz hammer and steel rod with wraps of tape to center it in barrel. NO All Thread!!!! First wack should be hard to start to get the bullet to move to the lubricated area. After that lighter taps will get it out. If you reload and haven't had squibs it's a question of YET.

The 2 things I keep in my range box,8" 5/16 brass rod and a heavy brass gunsmith hammer. Follow the kroll/brass rod and heavy hammer advice and you'll be fine.

Funny thing about Kroil- the oil that creeps. A can lasts a long time. I've only bought one. I had to use pliers to open that can- the top wouldn't budge. Turning it upside down to allow the Kroil to work into the threads didn't help. Had to use pliers. Funny thing is, now that I'm able to open/close it by hand, there's always a small amount of it that somehow creeps? to the top of the can and puddles around the lip- despite ensuring that it was wiped after last using it. Wonder if they seal those threads with something...

Get a brass rod a little bit smaller that the bore. Take off the grips and the cylinder.
clamp the frame in a padded vice muzzle up. You should NOT use a big hammer and slam it really hard that is a sure way to expand the bullet and make it stick worse. Instead you want to tap tap tap tap light blows many of them 30 0r 40 taps and it will slowly start to move and then come free. A little kroil and letting it sit for a day first will also help.

The main mistake folks make when removing a stuck bullet is to use too small a rod or a wood dowel, and to use very hard blows that actually expand the bullet and make it stick more. BIG rod light taps many taps.

One guy posted on here before about using a Mapp gas torch to melt the bullet out. Not sure if I would do that or not...

I had a 250 gr XTP mag caught in the barrel of my 454 Casull back in the spring. I removed the cylinder and clamped a piece of oak into my vice. Slid the breech end of barrel over the wood and used a brass rod and hammer to drive it out. It wont come easy, mine didnt. Once it starts to move it will come out. I called Accurate powders with my load data for 1680 powder that was from Hornady's manual (if my memory is correct), and they said the start load was too light.
At least you caught it before trying another round.

Good luck,

Ken

Good to hear...