Another big fan :mad:

I'very used just about all the commercial case lubes. Started with the old style RCBS lube and a pad,had to take them to work and dunked them in a hot tank of tricolorethane 3 to get the case lube off. Now I use a home made lanolin alcohol mixture and it works as good if not better than any of the over the counter case lubes. The RCBS case lube from the 70s had the consistency of STP and was almost impossible to get off with anything short of a serious solvent like acetone or mineral spirits.

all these stuck case threads begin with one shot. I got a can in a trade and only use it on pistol cases- specifically 9mm and 357 as it really makes sizing easier. Rifle cases get lubed with a lee case lube/denatured alcohol solution. Havent stuck a case yet.

I will stick w/ mink oil. A half hour trip through the tumbler removes it. Not that fastest, but still a lot faster than removing a stuck case

I haven't tried it on pistol cases but with the resistance I get with sizing 9mm cases, it looks like a good application for the remainder of my can of One Shot case lube.

I don't lube pistol cases sized in carbide dies at all, but I have used One Shot on close to 1k .270, .30-06 and .308 cases with no problems. That said, I don't use the plastic bag method, I line up 50 cases in a spiral on a dinner plate (dedicated to this purpose) with necks up and give them a good spray at a relatively steep downward angle, making sure to get the sides, shoulders and inside the necks of all the cases. Then I turn the plate 180° and do it again. I also give the inside of the dies a spray every now and then. I used to use the Lee paste, but wanted something faster. Tried Cabelas brand lanolin spray and wound up with lots of dented shoulders. Since I went to One Shot I haven't had a reason to mess with other lubes, I guess if I stuck a case I would, but it hasn't been a problem yet.

I only use RCBS Lube on Lyman pad for rifle brass and no lube when sizing pistol brass with carbide dies. I load 9mm, 357 mag, 40 S&W and 44 Mag on a Dillon 550B without any lube. I just resized 50 327 Magnum cases tonight without using any lube. I have ran Perfecta & Privi Partizan through my 9mm sizer die also with no problems. It sounds to me like the lube you are using is causing the brass to stick. Have you tried sizing any 9mm brass without lube? I have only stuck one case in over 20 years and that was a 270 when I tried one of the spray lubes. I have found that if I wipe any excess RCBS lube off the necks and shoulders of rifle brass I don't get those neck dents caused by excessive lube.

Case stuck (in general, not just case lube)...

I'm not a Hornady guy, I'm not a One Shot guy, I'm not a guy who needs to defend any brand, nor a guy who needs to attack any brand. I've use all the products and learned a few lessons. And sometimes forgot the lesson, and learned it again. None of us are perfect.


But for the sake of those who have a can of One Shot or similar spray lubes and wish to use it up without sticking a case, here's the trick.

• Shake the container for 3 minutes before spraying, and use the clock to time 3 full minutes. Not 30 seconds or so and then get impatient and start spraying. Discipline yourself to 3 minutes.
• As you spray, continue to shake continuously. I know you think I mean shake once in a while, but I mean shake without stopping while you spray.
• Let it sit for maybe 5 minutes, then go through the procedure again. Shake for 3 full minutes and then shake continuously as you spray.
• Let sit another 5 minutes before you proceed to load.
• After loading, you can wipe off with a dry towel, or a pair of dry cotton gloves. You can tumble if you wish but you don't have to. Dry cotton gets the residual One Shot off the brass.

This applies to lots of different brands of case lube. Many brands use lube and solvents that are harmless to brass and powder and primer, but the lube and the solvent don't mix well; they can separate in just seconds. So you gotta shake thoroughly, and then keep shaking.



Second note, as mentioned above: Hornady dies for 223 Rem are not carbide. They require case lube like any other steel die. Go check out the newest Hornady catalog to verify. [Even Hornady straight-wall pistol dies are not carbide, but titanium-nitride. TiN is not a metal, but a ceramic coating on metal. Carbide is also a coating, usually equal parts titanium and carbon in a coating applied to a base metal. Check your Hornady catalog for more information, I believe you will verify that Hornady 223 Rem dies are neither carbide nor TiN.


Another note: Lube bottleneck rifle inside the case neck. Often you get lucky and don't get the expander stuck inside case neck, but it surely happens especially if not adjusted correctly. If stuck, it actually stretches the shoulder if you have to pull hard to get the expander through the neck as you pull the ram down. Then the cartridge won't fit the chamber and you think you didn't bump the should back enough. But it's actually a sticky expander. If case gets stuck, determine if the case is stuck on the expander or the sizer die body.


Last note: More on expander stuck: Sometimes a guy gets a case stuck because he thinks the case lube is poor. But actually his expander is adjusted too high and it jambs the brass between the expander and the wall of the die. Adjust your expander stem correctly, it must not interfere with the neck sizing portion of the die body. Especially if a stuck case occurs more than once, you must heed this notion carefully.


I'm certain all of you are way beyond this lesson. I only hope a few new guys might be helped. I hope it helps.

Give Dillon Case Lube (DCL) a try. I've been using it for probably 15 years, and I haven't stick a single bottle neck. But that really doesn't say much, cause I've used / tried One Shot also, and never stuck a case with it either.

Now days I keep a tin of Imperial on hand for applications where I want a wet lube. But for most of my general bottle neck resizing needs, it's hands down DCL, I love the stuff.

FYI, the number one reason why most reloaders stick a cartridge with spray on lube's, is because they don't let them dry completely before running the brass into the die, One Shot included. I have a friend that has stuck more cases than most could imagine. Doesn't matter if he's using One Shot, Imperial, or what ever it might be, he just doesn't have the patience to properly lube brass.

GS

Gtscotty said:

... That said, I don't use the plastic bag method, ...

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OOPS! Something that I did not address in my post about experiencing no issues with One Shot for sizing 5.56 cases.

I do not use the "plastic bag method" either. I line up ~220 at a time on a corrugated cardboard holder I crafted, spray them thoroughly, tilt the holder so they all roll ½ a turn and spray them again.

I also clean and spray the die before starting and, periodically (every few hundred cases), run a One Shot soaked Q-Tip up inside the die.

FWIW, after reading about the "plastic bag method" I dismissed it out of hand as being a lazy, inefficient approach to what I would be trying to accomplish.

1. Point: I'm not a fan of Hornady 1-Shot. (Now that we've established that fact, I will give the
Devil his due to say that most problems have occurred when the User didn't let the lube
actually dry before sizing -- i.e., read the instructions)

2. Point: No matter what lube is used in sizing, it's not necessary to clean it off
past the point of a simple paper towel wipe. In fact-1 if it's not gathering dirt, don't
worry about it. In fact-2 a slick case goes a loooong way toward reducing case stretch
and increasing case life.

Guess I'm the odd guy here. I've been using One Shot for about 6-7yrs now and have yet to have one case stuck in a die. I have to also admit that most of my reloading is with straight or tapered wall pistol rounds and when I reload my '06, I just neck size.

I do like it for the lack of mess and that it's inert to primers and powder. The key here, AFAIC, is to shake the can before use and make sure you give it a minute or two to flash off the carrier, before starting to size the cases.

I am talking about the aerosol version, not the liquid spray. I have no experience with that one.

First if anyone needs to get rid of their "Perfecta" brass you can mail it to me, PPU als. I will take care of it. Secondly one of the simplest means of lubing a large # of cases with no powder contamination or stuck cases, is to use Lee case lube with a few cleaning patches and some 91% rubbing alcohol in a plastic bag. Shake rattle and roll. If you use a slight excess of alcohol the case necks will get lubed also. Cleanup if you feel compelled is a simple wipe with a cloth or a very short tumble. Thousands of cses sized including WSM cases w/ no stuck cases. You dont have to wait for the cases to dry. Alcohol fumes are present when you open the bag so use some common sense when working with the system. My tin of Imperial takes too much effort to resize especially WSM cases. Makes me nervous.

I also stuck a case with One-Shot. Back in my reloading infancy. Came on here and discovered Imperial Sizing Wax and never looked back.

Over time, I have found some good uses for One Shot.
- Spray it on plastic snow shovels to eliminate sticking snow. Wife was impressed with that trick.
- Use for a dry lube. Don't recall what for, but it was perfect for whatever it was that nothing else would do. Must not have been too critical.
- Did I mention snow shovels? The plastic ones?

The only time I've ever stuck cases was with One Shot. I don't use it anymore.

The fact that only PPU and Perfecta seem to do this makes it pretty odd. Lake City, ZQ1, Remington, Federal, no issues. not once through the whole load, baggy style or out in the tray.

Click to expand...

I wonder if galling varies by grade of brass.

When I bought my .223 dies I bought a can of One Shot Case Lube.
I followed the directions to the letter and sure enough the very first case got stuck.
Once I got it out I tried a second case and the same thing happened.
I called the Hornady tech support line and had a good laugh while
waiting on hold.
When I spoke to one of their techs it was his opinion that the product may have frozen in transport and separated.
He asked me if I would prefer he send me some Hornady Unique instead which I find to work as well as Imperial.

I now use Dillon Case Lube for all my progressive reloading.

I reload .233 in 2 steps on the progressive.
First step is decap, size, and trim using the Dillon RT-1200.
I then wet tumble in SS pins.
Once dry I prime, charge, seat, and crimp on the second go around.

I really like my Ballistol. Just touch the end of one finger barely in some, lightly rub it on the brass as I am putting it in my press, and everything is slick as can be. About every 3-4 cases I just barely touch the lube, so a tablespoon will do hundreds and hundreds of cases. One can will last me years.

I have had very good luck with RCBS lube.

I loaded thousands of rounds of 223 with One Shot without a stuck case. Then I stuck one. A little gun shy about trying it again but based on my experience, I must have done something wrong on the one that stuck. I have plenty of Dillon, Ballistol (never tried it as a case lube), mink oil and Imperial so I'm not in a bind for case lube.

AnselHazen said:

I ran a few hundred more last night hosing them down with One Shot in an MTM tray and then letting them dry. And I have shot some squirts up into the die too.

Guess what? I had to drill another. What I've learned is I have two headstamps that are the problem. The first that caused all this was Perfecta, the second was PPU. I was tossing the Perfecta as I was going along and then got a PPU stuck. I can tell when it's about to happen now and sure enough it's the Perfecta and the PPU. So I just toss them in the junk pile. Maybe I'll go back and try them when I can get my hands on another type of lube. Dillons spray lube maybe or the Imperial wax.

My Impression was that my dies were carbide? That was the reference used when I asked at Cabelas. They are Hornady "New Dimension Custom Grade".

Oh, I know about corn cob. I spent hours getting that stuff out of the first cases I tumbled. Works fine for 9mm but once a bigger kernel got down the neck of a .223 they filled up and stayed full. I went right out and got walnut which is finer and it pours out of the shells now.

Click to expand...

Corn cob comes in multiple grit sizes, just like walnut.
Equating the fact that the cob you used was too large, with corn cob being an inferior product that clogs up case mouths, is not logically sound.

Try some 20/40 grit cob. You can pick up a 50 pound sack at a welding or blasting supply house for a little over $20.
Corn cob will absorb a lot more than walnut and will shine up cases better (if you care about that).
Walnut is better for cleaning up really grungy brass.
I use both depending on what I'm doing.

Like a couple of other posters have mentioned, mink oil makes an excellent case lube.

I used to use Kiwi brand, but I found that it has too much body and tended to load up my media quickly. I was given a tub of Angelus brand mink oil a couple years back and have found it to be excellent. I can't really tell much difference between it and Imperial except that it's much cheaper.

Now you guys got me worried. I bought something last week and am braving going out to the reloading shed in the rain to see just what I bought.
Thanks guys

I bought a product called brass butter the other day because my local store was out of One Shot. I did 50 .308 cases the other day and it worked well, in case anyone else is wondering about it.

Does Mink oil affect primers? I really like using products that are inert in relation to primers and powder so I don't have to worry about tumbling afterward.

Again, personally I have never used One Shot. I have read several horror stories about the stuff. I have noticed that those who have had good luck with the stuff share a common denominator in this and other threads. Carefully read and follow the directions and let the stuff dry and absolutely let it dry. Then let it dry some more. Based on what some members say I would not hesitate to at least try the stuff.

Ron