Case lubing

Yes.
Only necessary during sizing.

rc

Yes, you need to lubricate the case prior to resizing. And you also have to remove said lube after resizing. I use a rag dampened with rubbing alcohol to remove the lube.

Or you can run it through the case tumbler again to get the lube off. I do that with rifle cases. With pistol I tumble them again after they are loaded except for hollow points.
I don't like digging the media out of the hollow points so I tumble them after they are resized also.

I've always removed the lube after resizing, and then prior to the final polishing tumble, it helps preserve the life of the media.

GS

tumbling loaded rounds?

Is that for cosmetic reasons only, or rather what is the point of tumbling loaded rounds? Does it help to stave off verdigris? Thanks.

Why do we remove all of the lube?

If you don't remove the lube it gathers dirt, dust and gets stickey. At least the lube I use does. I have tried to run lubed cases through my 650 for reloading. WOW, what a mess. Case feeder gunked up, case drop tube gunked up as was the rest of the press. Will not to that again.

Bang! said:

Why do we remove all of the lube?

Click to expand...

Aside from the lube collecting dirt and assorted contaminants it can cause other slight problems. When a case fires it rapidly expands in the chamber and against the chamber walls. The friction prevents the brass case (or any cartridge case) from slamming full force against the bolt face. Will a lubricated case have the same friction as a non lubricated case? Also, as mentioned, the lube attracts contamination and we really don't want to spread contaminants around our chamber walls, not if we can avoid it anyway.

Ron

Yes. Lube for rifle sizing and clean before the next step.

Is tumbling loaded rounds actually safe? I've always wanted to try. My hands always make my finished rounds look awful even if I constantly wash them. I guess I'm just toxic..

Aside from the lube collecting dirt and assorted contaminants
it can cause other slight problems. When a case fires it rapidly
expands in the chamber and against the chamber walls.
The friction prevents the brass case (or any cartridge case)
from slamming full force against the bolt face. Will a lubricated
case have the same friction as a non lubricated case?

Click to expand...

That continues to be largely myth.

Take a look at this article/analysis about 60% down the page for an analysis of a 50,000psi 243Win cartridge.

"Summary Table with Estimated and Measured Coefficients of Friction"

http://www.varmintal.com/a243zold.htm

I'm not sure how much of the lubed case = dangerous bolt thrust concept is real, and how much is tradition. But this analysis (and the tests that are hyperlinked) would say it is relatively small (~4-6%). Countering that thrust increase is the reduced stress on the brass/case stretch

See also:
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5164423&postcount=9

MEHavey: Better to be safe than sorry. That 'myth' could cause grief one day. You can only spin the roulette wheel so many times before zero shows up.....

That 'myth' could cause grief one day

Click to expand...

Shootsm there too much evidence to the contrary: from the relatively little energy adsorbed
by stretching a quarter millimeter of thin brass to meet the bolt face if the case does grab,
to the mountain of historical evidence contained in the cites/links in Post #12 above.

Slick cases... whether ultra clean & polished to mirror finish in a tumbler or with slight case lube
... are your friend.

The friction coefficients were a good read. Myth or not I really am not sure but I figure it doesn't hurt to run clean ammunition (cases) through my gun chambers. I do not want to leave open any avenue that can allow the transfer of dirt or crud into my chambers. Thus, any remaining lube is removed.

Just My Take on it....

Ron

As a footnote, the brass I start with is relatively clean. I lube my brass and size it as a first step and in most cases it is full length sized. Next I inspect and trim making all my brass uniform. At this point I clean my brass running it through the tumbler and finish the final tumbling with some NuFinish car polish in the tumbler media. I remove the brass and strain it and inspect it, I also chamfer the necks. At this point I either bag it and label it or I start loading it. Works for me and has worked for a good number of years.

i would think the inside of the case more important than the outside when it comes to lubrication/cleaning. i'm looking for consistent bullet tension in both rifle and pistol. so, cleaning the case the same way every time is what is important to me regardless of method.

murf

I use a RCBS lub pad and Lee case sizing lube. It coats lightly when I spread on pad and rub into pad. I use a Lee hand press and carbide dies. Excess is wiped off after bullet is finished.

No need to lube straight walled pistol cartridges when using carbide dies.

I know, but I heard the cases would last longer if lubed. What do you think?

I always use lube when sizing cases, I don't want to remove a stuck case. I wipe off the lube right after sizing with a terry cloth rag. I can use a cloth because I use Imperial Sizing Wax which is the best lube IMO.

MEHavey: I would love to meet you in person and discuss the issue.

I spread all rounds to be sized on a cookie sheet and then give them 2 sprays of Frankford Arsenal case lube. This lube is water based and doesn't tend to accumulate easily. Orient the case mouths in one direction if you prefer the inside being exposed to lubrication.

I tumble most rounds after loading with a final polish media not used to JUST clean brass. I have found 20-30 minutes works well and leaves a tarnish resistant slick coating on the rounds. I like Dillon Rapid polish and find cases "finalized" with a polish to be just perfect after 10 years. Frankford Arsenal brass polish dulls after just 3-4 years, esthetic implications only, not functional.