Is there a difference in gas blocks?

Status
Not open for further replies.

viking499

Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2007
Messages
3,824
I just finished assembling my new AR. I have decided to stay with a scope on this rifle and want to switch out my front gas block with a low profile to remove the front sight and clean the looks of it up a little.

When I look at gas blocks online, the prices range from $20+ dollars to almost $100. And to me, they all look similar.

Is there something there I am not seeing? Are the expensive ones that much better or will any of them work?
 
The gas block you need will depend on how you plan to attach it to the barrel. Is it gonna be clamped or pinned do you want one that's adjustable?
 
I don't have an adjustable block now. Do I need one if I replace the original? If not, I guess I just need a regular block.
 
Some brands offer better finish, QC, or name recognition than others. Some come in different materials.

It say stick with steel, as aluminum can erode over time...may not effect function, or it may, but i dont like important gas system parts that cant operate for extended periods in the temperatures and pressures involved in burning gunpowder. Just personal preference. As for brand, get one you trust. I like Troy, BCM, YHM, etc...
 
Find one made of steel that will fit your barrel diameter and will not kill you wallet and buy it. You do not need an adjustable gas block unless you are running a suppressor or really want to tailor your hand loads. Some of the more expensive blocks are either adjustable or you are paying for a name.
 
Thanks for the info so far.

Sounds like I need a steel, low profile non-adjustable .750 gas block.

Now, to find one worth the money.......
 
i normally use a steel generic gas block (low profile) from Brownells and they have served well through many thousands of rounds of ammo. I also used one aluminum block that has given no trouble after roughly 500 rounds but i did notice the set screws are now welded to the block so i better not plan to change this carbine around without realizing i would need to cut the block off.
 
I've had luck with aluminum blocks, but I'm not shooting full auto or even high volume semi auto fire. I've found aluminum blocks as cheap as $4.99 on Amazon, and while they may be of questionable quality, if one does fail, it's cheap enough to replace. For my pair of "fighting" ARs, my HD carbine and my future SBR, I'm running steel. Currently, the only one sporting an aluminum block is my lightweight. I have an extra in my parts box just in case.
 
You can get a good troy or bcm for 30 to 40 dollars for a set screw style. You might need to dimple the barrel for the set screw. You can get a clamp on stlye for about 15 dollars more.
 
Thanks for the link Bernie.

RC, that has crossed my mind. But for $25-30, it might be just as simple to swap and maybe keep the front sight if I never needed it for anything. You know how a box of extra parts soon turn into another rifle......
 
I have several and thought about that as well until I was told it is easier to just put a new undrilled FSB on then use an old one. That is usually not one part I tend to reuse.
 
Absolutely - in my hierarchy of preference, pinned is always better than clamped which is always better than set screw.
 
If you dimple the barrel properly, I'd rate set screw as being better than clamp. Besides, many of the clamp types don't fit under keymod rails.

The MAS defense steel melonite is GTG. Get two, and drill completely through one to use as a dimple drill guide tool.
 
clamp on

I would always advise clamp on models. They grip better than set screws, you don't have to worry about locktight melting and screws working loose. Daniel defense makes a low pro model that will fit under FF tubes.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top