Taurus transfer bars
- Thread starter 4v50 Gary
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25cschaefer
Member
Awww, just weld a chunk on the end of the hammer; what's the worst that could happen?
-kidding, don't do that-
I would be inclinded to use spring stock so it didn't mushroom out over time but that might be unnecessary.
-kidding, don't do that-
I would be inclinded to use spring stock so it didn't mushroom out over time but that might be unnecessary.
Unlike a hammer block, a transfer bar is struck every shot and the stress can cause breakage. But that can be reduced if the transfer bar is fitted so it is not smashed between the hammer and the frame. There should be enough gap so the hammer is still stopped by its upper part striking the frame, not the transfer bar. If the hammer strikes full force on the transfer bar smashing it into the firing pin and the frame trouble can result.
I am not sure I am clear on that; if not, I will try to post a diagram of how it should work.
Jim
I am not sure I am clear on that; if not, I will try to post a diagram of how it should work.
Jim
A transfer bar or hammer block of the usual kind should be pretty easy to make and fit, though "easy" does not always translate to "cheap". But to make one requires a full understanding of the metal working required plus knowing exactly how it works and how to make sure it works correctly so it cannot fail either way.
Jim
Jim
Old Shooter
Member
Interesting. I went to my favorite parts site Numrich and looked at a dozen of the Taurus revolvers listed and they all list the transfer bars as "sold out".
Is this maybe a part that they want to factory replace for some reason?
Perhaps a call to Taurus would get the answer. Hard to believe that one part would be unavailable for all models.
Added: E-Bay lists a couple of transfer bars for Taurus, maybe one for your model.
Is this maybe a part that they want to factory replace for some reason?
Perhaps a call to Taurus would get the answer. Hard to believe that one part would be unavailable for all models.
Added: E-Bay lists a couple of transfer bars for Taurus, maybe one for your model.
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Transfer bars only break from poor fitting. They do not just drop in. There needs to be a balance between how much of the hammer's energy is applied to the transfer bar and how much to the frame. If the transfer bar gets most of the hammer's energy it will fail.
OP
OP
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Jim K - The only part I'm having trouble with is bending it at the right point. I had the metal heated and was trying to press it against an anvil and measuer it against the pattern. So long as the metal was hot, it was easy. Didn't work when it was cold and I'll try again later.
OP
OP
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Made the transfer bar from tool steel. After filing it to profile, it was placed into a hand vise and then bent by hand to 36 degrees. It was then fitted (some filing and honing) before annealing.
New issues but not my problem. My job was to make the transfer bar. First there is a spring and plunger inside the trigger and it provides pressure against the hand and makes the hand tilt forward so as to engage the ratchet. Sometimes it doesn't work. Second the acton sometimes locks up when you squeeze it in the double action mode. Third, sometimes when the hammer drops it doesn't go boom.
On the first, the spring and the plunger are so short that the plunger doesn't necessarily go forward enough to place pressure on the hand. If there is no or inconsistent pressure on the hand, the hand won't engage the ratchet and because it doesn't, the cylinder won't rotate. Taurus should have stayed with the musical wire spring design used by S&W.
As to the latter, I'm wondering if the transfer bar is hanging up on the firing pin? That could cause the action to lock up. There is a healthy bevel on the top of the transfer bar that should allow it to slip over (Taurus designed that right).
New issues but not my problem. My job was to make the transfer bar. First there is a spring and plunger inside the trigger and it provides pressure against the hand and makes the hand tilt forward so as to engage the ratchet. Sometimes it doesn't work. Second the acton sometimes locks up when you squeeze it in the double action mode. Third, sometimes when the hammer drops it doesn't go boom.
On the first, the spring and the plunger are so short that the plunger doesn't necessarily go forward enough to place pressure on the hand. If there is no or inconsistent pressure on the hand, the hand won't engage the ratchet and because it doesn't, the cylinder won't rotate. Taurus should have stayed with the musical wire spring design used by S&W.
As to the latter, I'm wondering if the transfer bar is hanging up on the firing pin? That could cause the action to lock up. There is a healthy bevel on the top of the transfer bar that should allow it to slip over (Taurus designed that right).
Old Shooter
Member
I don't usually recommend this but maybe this one should be sent back to Taurus for repair?
I've done more than my share of kitchen table repairs/modifications but with the number of problems mentioned it might be worthwhile to say "enough" and send it in.
I've done more than my share of kitchen table repairs/modifications but with the number of problems mentioned it might be worthwhile to say "enough" and send it in.
beag_nut
Member
They do just drop in for Ruger revolvers.
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