10/22 upgrades for Appleseed

This is the recommended sights from appleseed
http://store.rwvaappleseed.com/page13.html

Do not free float a 10/22 barrel,

The VQ is the best trigger. very expensive

BX trigger will give you a lighter pull then stock, but is lots of plastic.

best thing you can do to prepare is practice the 3 three position shooting positions.

I have done 2 and will do another one. they are a blast.

Make sure that you can install a military sling with 1.5" swivels.

IMHO use of a good sling is more important than spending money on a replacement trigger in the 10/22.

I second the post about being able to find positions. Aim at a thumbtack on a wall. Learning how to position yourself to be angled correctly while dropping to kneeling and prone is key. The kneeling stage in particular happens VERY fast.

The mag release is important if you are using a 10/22. You will need to do mag changes on timed stages.

Whatever you do to the trigger, make sure the trigger has a loud and positive reset. You will need to learn to "ride the reset" for an easy speed boost. This is probably more important than a light trigger.

Whatever sight lets you get on target exactly at 25 meters will do. You don't need to change range in the .22 course of fire so adjustable elevation is not critical. For centerfire KD shoots, it is essential.

Shotgunjoe, I don't have any problems with the Ruger BX trigger assembly, it made a huge improvement over the stock trigger in my International model. I also have the Volquartzen trigger, hammer, and sear in my standard 10-22 which also made a tremendous improvement, but for the money if I had to do it all over again, I'd go with the BX assembly. Very little if any improvement between the two IMHO.

I highly recommend the auto bolt release. Stages 2 and 3 go quick. Buy or mod, it's a great improvement.

You don't need to change the trigger in your 10-22. If funds are tight, I would save your money. That's the beauty of an Appleseed (I've been to three of them), buy bulk 22 ammo, attach a sling and tech sights (ones that have wind age and elevation in the back are what I did and I liked them), a few mags and you are good to go. Your money would be better spent on good elbow and knee pads. If you don't have or wear them, you will be raw and bleeding otherwise. Enjoy. They are lots of fun.

I've been to a few Appleseeds - shot Expert at my first. Here's what I would do if I could go back and do it again.

1. TS200 Tech Sights. Just easier to use, the difference is $10?
2. VQ Auto Bolt Release & Extended Mag Release - Had this, it's almost necessary for the rapid fire shooting/mag changes in the later stages.
3. 1.25" Web Sling. This is pretty much required.
4. Send your trigger pack to Brimstone Gunsmithing (http://www.brimstonegunsmithing.com/) for at least the Tier 3 trigger job ($35). If you can swing the Tier 2 ($75) get it. It's better than a Ruger BX trigger. You won't get a VQ trigger, but you'll be miles ahead of either the factory or Ruger replacement.

I'm an Appleseed Shoot Boss, so I've seen a few 10-22's on the line...

First, before our OP gets confused - a GI web sling (and the swivels he'll want) is 1.25", not 1.5".

Make sure your mags drop free and you have the extended mag release (standard on newer rifles anyways) not the old flush mag release.

Quick bolt release is nice, but not 100% needed. If you don't have it, just drop the bolt during the prep period in stages 2 & 3 and run the bolt from closed after you've loaded the rifle.

I would personally go with TS100 sights.
Why? First, they sit a bit lower, it's not uncommon to have to build up the cheek weld a bit with TS200 sights.
TS100's also give you a near/far zero with just a flip of the aperture which is the main selling point to me. Yes, TS200's are adjustable, but it's not like an AR or M1 where you're making clicks with a finger adjustable sight... As someone who likes stretching his .22's out to longer distances, this is cool.
Just be sure to have the right tools to adjust the TS100 is you go that route.
Either one is bounds ahead of Ruger factory sights...

Unless you lucked into one of Rugers triggers that's closer to 10#, I wouldn't worry about the trigger much. A 5# trigger is just fine. One of our Instructors in Michigan just puts a Power Customs sear (or hammer, forget which) in his loaner rifles, works fine and doesn't break the bank.

The most important things are of course taking care of yourself. You'll most likely be outside all day. Water or Gatorade, sun screen, bug spray, a wide brimmed hat, comfortable shooting mat, a pop-up canopy, etc. Energy dense food that will keep you going without bloating your stomach is also very helpful.

I've had 3 10-22's and found the triggers on all unsatisfactory as delivered, but were easily improved with just the substitution of the trigger return spring. On mine, that was where most of the pull weight was hiding and going lighter instantly made them work well. The disconnector spring was also very stout IIRC and needed to be reduced to then reset properly with the reduced trigger return spring. Never had to touch the sear surfaces and though there is some movement before release, it's clean and easy to shoot the rifle well without spending big bucks on the aftermarket trigger units.

But if you're not comfortable tinkering with important things like the trigger....it might be best to just pony up for the aftermarket or upgraded Ruger units just to be safe.

Remember that several stages include a mandatory magazine change. I lost time and points fumbling with the standard flush mag release and have switched on my Appleseed gun to an extended mag release.

Also the afore mentioned auto bolt release can save a few seconds when they count.

I did the 100 Tech Sites, GI canvas (NOT NYLON) sling on swivels, and my own trigger job with stones and minor reshaping.

I also removed the slick crescent butt plate and slipped a section of bicycle inner tube over it to make it not slip around on my shoulder and screwed it back tightly on.

Remember accuracy is repeatability, the ability to have everything exactly the same for every shot. Having that slick butt plate wandering about makes that hard.

The idea of practicing the positions is excellent. As a high schooler on a rifle team I was encouraged to watch the family time TV shows in the Kneel or sitting position, if possible with a rifle. As I still had one of the old Paris Rifle "Kaydet" drill rifles, it got to watch Red Skelton, Ed Sullivan, Matt Dillon and others a good bit. If sitting in the family room with your 10/22 all strapped in is uncomfortable, pull the barreled action out of the stock and do it with "just the wood".

If you practice the positions you can learn to set up your position to have your natural point of aim be at the target. Your natural point of aim is where the rifle would point if you got into position blind folded and balanced. If you do not have your natural point of aim happen at the target then you will try to force the sights onto target and working muscle will never be as stable.....or repeatable..... as a relaxed natural point of aim.

It may be that the part of a standard out of the box 10/22 that most needs adjustment in the "Loose Nut" behind the butt plate, the shooter.

-kBob

I can recommend the VQ target hammer/bushings upgrade. Actually, just get it in the combo pack with a VQ bolt release, which can be found here:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/928145851/volquartsen-bolt-release-and-target-hammer-ruger-10-22

This is the first upgrade I would make to a 10/22. The improvement in the trigger is superb, and the bolt release is much better than the factory setup. All that, and you're still under $40.

joel,

If you want to get silly and learn what can be done with the 10/22 then go to RimfireCentral.com and start reading. Hold on to your time piece and your wallet though.

Be aware that religious arguments abound there as much as any technical site.

Barrel tension via a barrel pad? We don't need no stinking.... yes we do near the end of the stock, no, no near the action screw, and it must be old rubber inner tube, no, no, cork and what are you guys wasting his time when he needs a lock screw in a ferrel out near the end of the stock with a nylon bumper on it?

The interesting thing is the different sects all offer proof in the form of pictures of actually modified rifles, sometime before and after targets and testimonies right there in front of the entire congregation!

Check it out!

-kBob

I have Hornet Products trigger group. I think it is the Black Max which is about $140. I have it in two rifles now and I like it a lot. Almost no take up or creep. (I can't get their site to come up right now) It is all plastic so it depends on what you want to pay for. Volquartsen probably makes a better trigger, but it is also more expensive.

I tried to upgrade my orginal 10/22 trigger with a parts kit once. It was better than stock, but it was such a pain to take the trigger group apart and reassemble it, I doubt I will ever just buy parts again. Very good complete trigger groups are not much more.

http://www.coolguyguns.com/
Kidd products at coolguyguns.com are very good also. I have just been upgrading my 2nd 10/22 with his parts. I didn't try his trigger group though. Maybe in the future.

I do not do Appleseed so I have no idea what the rules are for that.