New to Shotgun Reloading

Status
Not open for further replies.

TenDriver

Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2009
Messages
1,223
Location
Huntsville, AL
Picked up an older MEC 600 the other day after wanting one for a while. I finally got it set up, bought a loading manual, 25lb of #8 shot and 5lb of 00 buck.

Basic question, with a given load, say one ounce, it doesn't matter what that load is (shot size), as long as the load weighs what the data says.

Also, I understand buckshot is different and that loads listed are for a specific number of pellets. Well, Hodgdon's online load data only lists payload weight. Nothing for number of pellets. Is that data transferable to buckshot loads?

Last thing... When I was getting the press set up I had a few shells with a hole in the middle of the crimp and a couple that swirled. Both are adjusted out now, but are the shells with this trait shootable? If not, can I salvage the components?
 
Yes, powder charge would be the same for 1 1/8 oz. whether 5,6,7 1/2, 8, or 9 shot. Only thing is that I've read that the shot bars are calibrated for 7 1/2 shot. So there might be a slight variation in the shot weight with bigger or smaller shot. Buckshot loads you have to use the exact components listed and the number of pellets. I haven't had much luck loading buckshot and getting a good crimp. My best buckshot loads are using like Federal Gold Medal hulls because they are a straight sided hull and not tapered walls. I quit loading buckshot and simply buy Estate buckshot factory loads. If like Hodgdon and they only list a weight for buckshot, then weigh pellets to check the number of pellets to equal the weight listed. Usually 9 pellets of 00 buck. You can shoot loads with a not perfect crimp as long as they will chamber in your shotgun. Best to develop your shotshell loads with only one brand hull. I prefer Remington Premier type hulls now. Used to prefer Win AA hulls until they switched to a 2 piece hull. Much easier to use one hull brand and get good consistent crimps.
 
I do not load buckshot ...so I'll leave that part to someone who does.

I have been loading shot shells on a MEC 600 Jr. since the late '70s .... You will have to know that the shot bar does not load by weight only by volume.... a set volume(bar) will drop a lighter load of say #4 than it will of #9 ... so take that in mind when loading.... use 1 oz data with as close as you can get with the MEC bar ....

Don't take the powder drop as 100 % either .... measure with a scale .... the action of loading can or will alter the powder drop .... measure a large enough sample to make sure ....

Use the correct primer with the Data listed .... important in shotshell loading .... much more important than center fire ....

The shells with the small hole will shoot fine ... just watch for the crimp as it may unfold and dump some shot.
 
You can get a Universal Charge Bar which will allow you to dial in your shot and powder charges to exactly match the recipes.

When I was shooting competitive skeet and loading with a MEC 600jr., I almost never was able to use the powder bushing for the powder I was using that was recommend on the bushing chart. After weighing the charges I would end up one or two bushings off the recommended bushing.

In some cases, I had to resort to the Universal Charge Bar.

So, if you buy bushings, buy bushings to bracket the one you think you might need.
 
Thanks guys.

The press came with three charge bars and several powder bushings but I may take another look at the universal charge bar.
 
You can get a Universal Charge Bar which will allow you to dial in your shot and powder charges to exactly match the recipes.

the Universal Charge Bar makes your job so much easier. I miss reloading for the shotgun. I haven't done it years, but my MEC 650 Jr. is still out there on the bench though.
 
Salvaging Shotshell components

If you wish to salvage the components, you can
1. use a pick to pry open the crimp but you might mess up the wad while trying to pull it out.
2. use a box cutter knife to cut the shell at the wad legs
3. use a dedicated shell cutter via mail order
4. use one of these for about $13 at Lowes or some other hardware store

I chose #4 because I could also use it for plumbing chores. Rolling the shell into the blade cuts the hull cleanly so you could salvage all the components minus the hull (I get all the hulls I want for free at the range anyway so it's the least expensive component).

As for inconsistent crimps, line up your hulls and put a straight edge over them. With shells like Remington Gun Clubs (my favorite), the height varies wildly so I adjust the precrimp and final crimp to work with the shortest hull. Taller hulls wind up with swirls but it's better than winding up with holes in the crimp where the shot spills out.
 
Shot getting out from around the crimp, that did not close can/will jam a simi-auto. You can melt some candle wax and seal the hole. I've done this for years to fix the leaking problem.
 
Since the OP said he had "fixed" the crimp problem ... he has only a few with the problem .... this is the quick and easy solution...

You can melt some candle wax and seal the hole. I've done this for years to fix the leaking problem.
 
I started this year with the Mec 600 Jr.

Added the universal charge bar. Important for shot and powder accuracy.

My latest toy is a Hornady automatic powder charger. Much more accurate than the charge bar.

It may seem funny, but I use Winchester AA red hull's exclusively because, shooting semi-auto, I have difficulty finding the darn Remington greens in the grass.

Tried Cheddite hulls also, but I had to reset the crimp from Winchester and feel it is better to use just one type hull with the crimp set to close the end without twisting or without losing shot. Resetting from one to the other results in crushed hulls.

Buy extra bottles for shot and powder (don’t need for powder if you use the autocharge).
 
I started this year with the Mec 600 Jr.

Added the universal charge bar. Important for shot and powder accuracy.

My latest toy is a Hornady automatic powder charger. Much more accurate than the charge bar.

It may seem funny, but I use Winchester AA red hull's exclusively because, shooting semi-auto, I have difficulty finding the darn Remington greens in the grass.

Tried Cheddite hulls also, but I had to reset the crimp from Winchester and feel it is better to use just one type hull with the crimp set to close the end without twisting or without losing shot. Resetting from one to the other results in crushed hulls.

Buy extra bottles for shot and powder (don’t need for powder if you use the autocharge).



Is the universal charge bar more accurate?
 
Is the universal charge bar more accurate?

No. Just easier to set up and adjust.

That said, the universal charge bar is accurate enough if you drop a few loads into a cup (tare the cup on the scale to zero first) and weigh them to let the first few loose or compressed charges settle.

Then, every 10-12 charges, I’ll put a charge in a cup and weigh it before pouring it into a hull. (The cup I use is a 35 mm plastic container if you are old enough to have one in a drawer. Use it for weighing shot, too.)

The universal charge bar will be faster than the Hornady auto charge I use for rifle. The charge bar occasionally may be .2 gr out, but close enough for casual shooting and not enough to get me in pressure trouble with the loads I use.
 
Basic question, with a given load, say one ounce, it doesn't matter what that load is (shot size), as long as the load weighs what the data says.

But also remember that for a given shot size and weight, larger size will produce a taller stack in a wad. Big shot doesn’t get as close to each other as small shot.

Follow the recipe closely to get the shell length right and not compress the powder.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top