Time to buy the gear and build the bench

I have been reloading for more than 30 years steady, (40 years off and on), so I have my "opinions". The one drawback for a Lee turret (besides trying to make it a progressive press) is a new reloader doesn't get the practice of die adjustments as he would with a single stage. Knowing how to adjust dies is essential for troubleshooting (and you'll be troubleshooting your ammo at some time soon after starting). I bought a Lee turret press about 15 years ago and disabled the auto-index 14.9 years ago. I batch load and don't need "semi-progressive" reloading, but I did reload on single stage pressed for most of my reloading career, so die adjustments became easy, less than a minute.

I don't think one needs a tumbler right away. I reloaded for 12 years before I got a tumbler. I just wiped each case with a solvent dampened rag while I inspected it (first operation is inspection!) No, no/scratched ruined dies, and yes I could spot all defects in the brass.

I never really got comfortable with hand priming, I tried 3 different makes, but I didn't like having to "reset" the tool in my hand after every squeeze. I have used a ram prime for many years quite successfully. I had an empty hole on one of my turrets so I installed it there. The ram prime gives me much more feel than hand primers or stock priming arms on the presses. Out of curiosity I bought a Lee Bench Prime and after I read the instruction, and followed them, I have primed over 2,000 cases trouble free.

You may have a reason to use Amazon, but I buy my Lee stuff from Titan Reloading (the kit you linked is a bit cheaper at Titan; $193.00 vs. $214.00).http://www.titanreloading.com/

When you get your stuff all together, find a load (bullet, powder, primer) before you buy components. Much easier, and fewer headaches than trying to find a load for some "odd matched" components...

Go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun.

You can buy Lee dies directly from Lee. Or go to your local gun shop.
As for everything else, look at what comes in the RCBS Beginner's Kit. That'll very likely cost you less than buying piecemeal.

Most people get into reloading to save $$$ or so they can do more shooting for the same amount of $$$. Many get into it to enable them to make ammo that is more accurate than what is available commercially.

Whatever your reason there are a few issues that you should keep in mind, IMO.

1) There are a few items that you should NOT try to go cheap on. Any measuring devices...calipers, micrometers, powder measures, scales (digital or beam type), case gauges, etc. If you're using any of these devices it's because you want a specific measurement, powder charge, etc. Cheap equipment could be disastrous, physically and financially.

2) Spend some money on a quality press. The press keeps everything in line during the sizing and bullet seating process. Don't spend good $$$ on dies and then put them into a cheap press. Quality presses cost more for a reason. Cheap presses are cheap for a reason. Turret presses are great. Get one that allows you to change the turret head as you will undoubtedly load for more than 3 calibers.

3) Use a separate primer install tool. The reloading press doesn't give you the proper "feel" that you need for primer seating.

4) A tumbler is great for cleaning your brass prior to sizing. Dirty brass could possibly scratch the brass and the dies.

5) Invest in at least 3 reloading manuals. Cross reference all of them when choosing a load. All are good resources. I would definitely include the Lyman manual. This manual uses bullets from different bullet makers and also lists cast bullet loads.

6) Be cautious of what you read on forums. Especially when it comes to using a load from someone else. You don't know the experience level of these keyboard warriors.

7) Bottom line is don't go cheap on some parts. Reloading equipment will last you a lifetime if taken care of. If you don't have the money for a quality piece of equipment, save your money for a month or two and buy the good stuff. It will save you a lot of frustration in the long run and you will be working with quality equipment. Believe me, you will notice the difference. If you buy cheap equipment sooner of later you will buy the quality equipment. Might as well buy the good stuff in the beginning. Remember, only rich people can afford to buy cheap stuff.

8) One more thing. If you don't understand something, STOP! Do research prior to loading. Surprises in this hobby can be disastrous.

Good Luck

Potatohead said:

Definitely agree on the balance beam scale. Tried both extensively and sent the electronic one packing eventually.

Click to expand...

I tend to agree, altho I keep a digital scale around to double check my charge weigh before I start to reload. I set the balance beam to the weight I want and then adjust the thrower to drop that weight. I then use the digital to double check that weight to make sure I have set the balance beam up correctly. Takes only a few seconds, but makes sure my old eyes counted the right amount of little marks.

I also agree that there are certain things that you should invest in quality, and a good scale is one.

You can buy the RCBS Chargemaster 1500 digital scale from Natchez for about $140 right now, and then later, you can always add the dispenser and have a pretty cool setup for working up charges or for dispensing tough-to-dispense stick powders (like Varget for example). It is a great scale on its own, and when added to the Chargemaster dispenser if just a great, great setup.

As others have mentioned as well, a good beam scale is a good thing to have in case you lose power after the Zombie Invasion, plus it is always a good idea to be able to check your digital scale with. RCBS is discontinuing their 5-0-5 scale, which is made by Ohaus and has a great reputation. This means you can find some pretty good deals on them if you look around. Midway had them on sale for $40 a few weeks ago, but I think that sale is over now.

Plus, there are some pretty good RCBS rebates in place if you go that route.

I have no affiliation with RCBS, but I do have to say that I love my Chargemaster 1500 dispenser (with the neck reducing bushing mod that you can get from eBay).

Other than that, I would say you have a great start with your list. The LCT press is a great choice (I have one as well!), and even though the cost is low and there are a lot of Lee scoffers out there, it is a great press that will last you for many, many years to come. Even if you decide to "Go Blue" someday, you can keep the LCT press for other tasks, and for the $100+ price tag, you really can't go wrong.

One thing to consider when working up your costs are the costs of the reloading components themselves (primers, powder, bullets). It is pretty easy to spend as much to get started on these items as you will spend on your press and gadgets.

Best of luck, and welcome to the world of being broke all the time!!!

I have had a Rockchucker since the late 70's. I bought a Lee Classic Turret about 4 years ago when I got a 45 ACP. The pistol ammo I load on the Lee, and rifle on the Rockchucker. I disabled the automatic indexing on the LCT, and turn it by hand most of the time. I also have a RCBS bench primer, also as old as the Rochckucker, that I use all of the time. There is something about the primer being seated every time the handle is pulled on the LCT that I do not care for ( just a personal preference ). The bench primer also lets me feel each primer after being seated.

My reloading bench was made in the mid 80's, it fit into a space where I removed a closet. I think it is about 7 1/2 foot long. I made it out of un-treated 4X4's for legs, with a 3/4 inch plywood top. The framing for the top is 2X4 lumber. The legs are removable and fit into pockets of the 2X4's framing. It has 3 sets of legs that have 2X4's ran horizontally to keep them together when being moved. It has been in 6 houses--- very easy to move due to coming apart when drywall screws are removed.

buck460XVR said:

I then use the digital to double check that weight to make sure I have set the balance beam up correctly. Takes only a few seconds, but makes sure my old eyes counted the right amount of little marks.

Click to expand...

I hear you...those little marks can be boogers I agree. You might be understating it a bit too, with "little marks" lol.

I find myself double, triple, quadruple checking, again and again during a session to make sure I'm on the right little check mark. I just upgraded a notch or two, went from a cheap Lyman something or another beam, to a nice Hornady one. Much better, still some pretty small little marks though lol.

Phlier said:

Hmm. IMO, calipers are as important as a scale. Would really hate to hear of a brand new reloader loading something dangerously short... Maybe if he was sticking to loading up bullets with a cannelure, but who does that?
.

Click to expand...

I actually agree that calipers are not Needed, they are nice to have but they just put an arbitrary number on things. For revolvers, we just seat the bullets to the crimp groove, for semi auto's, we just seat the bullet until it passes the plunk test and fits in the magazine. from there we work our way up the powder charges and play around with seating depth. No real need to put a number on things. Ive been using my calipers without a battery for a few months now.

For what it's worth, I like the primer system on the lee turret better then a hand primer. Once it's setup its a breeze to use
and check out Simpson strong ties for the bench, much simpler.

I built the NMRA reloading bench and it is solid as a rock. This thing will not move even after a nuclear explosion! I do not care for the sliding doors on the upper shelves, so I left them off. You can find the plans all over the internet, but here is one link:

https://sites.google.com/site/grassrocketranch/the-nrma-reloading-bench

Here is a picture of when I was just finishing the building of the bench in the garage. I still have some touch work to complete and had to add the lower sides and back. I did not want to finalize the construction until I got it in the house since it had to come apart anyway to get it through the doorway.

If you have the tools and the skill, great idea with the bench. I don't have either. Personally, I would purchase one or two Harbor Frieght workbenches for about $130 each and go from there. The top cabinetry stuff may also be purchased at one or more stores, including IKEA. I would much rather build my own, but I can't do everything I want to do.

Doublehelix said:

Here is a picture of when I was just finishing the building of the bench in the garage

Click to expand...

James,

Very nice bench. It will serve you well. The quality of the handloaders bench is very important and generally overlooked. I wonder sometimes when handloaders kibitz about a $200.00 press kit being a financial hardship, what kind of facility are they planning to use in their new found hobby?

Anyway, I used the bench plans you used as a rough guide when I built my bench. I had a pair of industrial shop bench legs and some 3/4 plywood. The actual working area I have is almost identical to yours. The main difference is my hutch is never coming off the top and the shelves are not adjustable. My hutch is 24" high, a bit short but I made everything using plywood I had laying around, I have about $35.00 out of pocket in this bench total. I also wanted the maximum stability. Here is a picture before I put my stuff on:


Here is one of my presses on the strong mount before I installed the ergo handle:


I really like this bench and plan a few mods shortly but my next bench is going to be a lot longer. The width (about 22" of working space) is good. The bottom shelf, not visible is supported by 2x4s on the outside edges and a 4x4 running right up the middle.

This was taken when I was putting it in service:

I have since shuffled things around and added lighting and electrical outlets.

thomas15 said:

Very nice bench. It will serve you well.

Click to expand...

Thank you! Likewise! Yours is a work of art compared to mine!

thomas15 said:

Anyway, I used the bench plans you used as a rough guide when I built my bench.

I really like this bench and plan a few mods shortly but my next bench is going to be a lot longer. The width (about 22" of working space) is good. The bottom shelf, not visible is supported by 2x4s on the outside edges and a 4x4 running right up the middle.

Click to expand...

Yes, I have 22" deep of working space as well, and it is 72" wide (6 feet). I have my press mounted to the right, and a small vice mounted all the way left for gunsmithing work.

Mine has four 4x4 legs and 2x6 supports in the front, rear and sides. I adjusted the height from the original plans to fit my height (5'10") so that I can comfortably sit at the bench on a tall stool, or stand and work as needed. I have about $105 in my bench in wood and hardware (carriage bolts, 5 million wood screws (!), the Melamine top, shelves etc.).

Packman said:

Regarding the bench, I already have a custom work bench I built a few years ago in the garage that I'll use for reloading. I'm pretty tall so I wanted something that was better adapted to my height than what I could find on the market. It's built out of doubled 2x4s and 3/4 inch plywood on the top. It's as rock solid as they get and should work out just fine for my needs.

Click to expand...

Sounds like that will work out great!

I started reloading in 1976, with a RCBS single station press loading for 41 Magnum. Still have it. I now use a Lyman manual turret press. Why? Because I can leave my 45 acp dies in the press (I load and shoot a LOT of them) and can use the other stations for other calibers. Had a Lee 1000 auto turret press, and sold it, as it was a pain to keep running properly (sorry Lee). I currently reload for .380, 38 Special, 9mm, 357 Mag, 41 Mag, 45 acp, 45 Colt, 30-30, .223/5.56mm, .308, 300 Blackout, 22 Hornet, 30-06, 45-70, and 45-90. Oh, and 12 ga. on a MEC 600Jr. When I retired and moved into a smaller house without a basement, and hotter than holy heck in the garage in the summer, I built a 4 bedroom house using one bedroom for a "Man Cave". First thing I did was to go to Lowes and buy two unfinished kitchen cabinets, and a 6 foot laminate kitchen counter top for a very nice "almost office looking" workbench. A 6 ft. cabinet of the same style has plenty of room for dies, brass, tools, etc. Plenty of room on the bench to even set up a second press or a Lyman sizer / luber without disturbing the Turret press.
Long winded.
I still dispense powder with an RCBS powder measure, use a beam powder scale to set it and check it, manually prime with a Lee Autoprime, (even though I can do it on the press). Have an electronic scale and never use it. Trim with a Lyman tool. My wife insists I do my bullet casting on the back porch, however.
I recommend you buy a second (or more) loading manual, maybe not immediately, but after you have gotten started. New powders come along, some have changed formulations so my older manuals aren't accurate any more, and just for cross checking. Starting with the 45 acp is a good idea, as it is one of the easiest to load.

fotheringill said:

If you have the tools and the skill, great idea with the bench. I don't have either. Personally, I would purchase one or two Harbor Frieght workbenches for about $130 each and go from there. The top cabinetry stuff may also be purchased at one or more stores, including IKEA. I would much rather build my own, but I can't do everything I want to do.

Click to expand...

If I can build a bench anyone can.

I have ZERO wood working skills.

I used these plans http://www.familyhandyman.com/works...ld-a-workbench-super-simple-50-bench/view-all

All you need is a saw, tape measure, and something to drive screws.

After I built the first one I customized the second on the shelves.

I'm unable to stand for very long and prefer to have my legs under the bench so I can sit comfortably so this bench is ideal for my purposes. I did shorten the legs on both benches by a few inches to make the comfortable to sit at.

I've have been reloading for 25 years. I've owned 6 or 7 presses in that time & still have 4 of them. I've sold almost everything that wasn't Lee & replaced it with Lee. There's still a little bit of green stuff around here. I have a Classic Cast BL, Pro 1000, & Load Master that I use. The other press is just in the drawer because it was my first press. I love my auto electric powder measure but it isn't something most people need. I have a powder that is to hard to measure any other way & it was cheep enough to pay for the scale. But I mostly use the auto disk measure. I hate the Lee & two RCBS beam scales I've used. Those $2 pocket scales work just fine for most powder & general reloading. The batteries go dead but for $2 just replace the whole thing instead of batteries. Now saying that I'm not sure it'd trust it with anything faster then Bullseye & loading in the hot side. My measure is much nicer but isn't needed. The $2 one is going to be more accurate & repeatable then been scales under $200.

I'd really suggest you consider two presses. The Classic Cast(or some other heavy build single stage) is something you will always have a need for & you may find you prefer doing everything except pistol in it. I really suggest progressive for pistol tho. If you will only shot 50 at a time then maybe you won't mind but anything over that would probably burn you out. This isn't true for everyone but I know a bunch that quit over trying to load one at a time. The pro 100 can be used like the turret except moving the case instead of the dies one case at a time. I even drilled one of my turrets out in the center to stop the auto advance & loaded 30-06 on it. This is my favorite press. Even more then the Load Master. You can load 1,2, or 3 at a time on it in auto or turned by hand. Only thing on the pro I'd suggest is keep a good eye on the prime feed until you learn to keep it smooth. BDS has good tips on improving these.

I really prefer to prime on top of my SS press. I bought a swag & ran prime tool from CH4D I'd really suggest everyone at least consider. But other then the swag tool since crimping is coming more common on factory ammo there isn't anything more needed then there was since we've been using brass cases. However other then mentioned above is suggest a trimmer also. Lee makes the one with the gauge I like.

Welcome to the bottomless hole.

Packman said:

Regarding the bench, I already have a custom work bench I built a few years ago in the garage that I'll use for reloading. I'm pretty tall so I wanted something that was better adapted to my height than what I could find on the market. It's built out of doubled 2x4s and 3/4 inch plywood on the top. It's as rock solid as they get and should work out just fine for my needs.

Click to expand...

Plywood does not make a good bench top. It's too soft. You will soon have grooves where the soft grain is. I recommend a hardboard top that is glued on, no fastener holes to fill in with powder. A smooth Formica style does very well.

Jesse Heywood said:

Plywood does not make a good bench top. It's too soft. You will soon have grooves where the soft grain is. I recommend a hardboard top that is glued on, no fastener holes to fill in with powder. A smooth Formica style does very well.

Click to expand...

I used laminate flooring. Cheaper and easier to deal with then Formica.

I added a sheet of 1/4" Melamine to the top of my bench. Bought a 4x8 sheet which is not as cheap as some other solutions, but still pretty low cost and it works great, and looks pretty good as well. Mine is white so it is easy to see spilled powder, etc.

Cannibul said:

If I can build a bench anyone can.

I have ZERO wood working skills.

I used these plans http://www.familyhandyman.com/works...ld-a-workbench-super-simple-50-bench/view-all

All you need is a saw, tape measure, and something to drive screws.

After I built the first one I customized the second on the shelves.

I'm unable to stand for very long and prefer to have my legs under the bench so I can sit comfortably so this bench is ideal for my purposes. I did shorten the legs on both benches by a few inches to make the comfortable to sit at.

Click to expand...

I wanted to be able to stand OR sit, so I built my bench at bar-height, and sit on a bar stool with my feet on the lower shelf. It gives me the versatility to sit comfortably for case prep, and to stand for leverage on the press.

badkarmamib said:

I wanted to be able to stand OR sit, so I built my bench at bar-height, and sit on a bar stool with my feet on the lower shelf. It gives me the versatility to sit comfortably for case prep, and to stand for leverage on the press.

Click to expand...

Exactly what I did as well. Sometimes, I feel like standing, sometimes, I just need to sit!