For Harbor Freight Tumbler Users

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otisrush

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I'm having an issue where the oil I've put on the rolling bars where they exit the frame is getting in between the metal bar (that drive roller - the one driven by the motor) and the plastic/rubber housing that is mounted on that bar. As a result when the containers are placed on the rollers the drive shaft rotates, but it can't grip the rubber housing so, consequently, the containers don't spin.

I read online that someone had this issue. They placed alcohol on the metal bar - and then moved the plastic housing back and forth - many times - to work the alcohol in between the rubber housing and the metal bar. The alcohol broke up the oil - and then evaporated.

I did this once and it worked - but oil has again gotten in between the metal shaft and the rubber housing and, again, the bar can't grip the rubber tubing/housing.

Has anyone else had this issue? If so - how have you dealt with it? I know it's Harbor Freight - meaning what do I expect for $50. But on the other hand everything else is just fine and I *have* to believe there is a jury-rig / fix that could be done. I've contemplated cutting the rubber housing off the shaft - figuring the black containers will have enough friction to still rotate. But I'm hesitating.......

Thoughts?

Thanks.

OR
 
I had this happen to me too when I used that tumbler. I had to cut the rubber off, clean everything then I carefully taped the rubber back on. It created a little wobble but it still worked fine. I eventually bought a Franklin Arsenal Tumbler but still have the HF as a back up.
 
Why on earth did you put oil on the rolling bars? Mine has done hundreds of loads of brass and I've never oiled anything and it runs perfectly. I bought a pile of spare drive belts thinking they would break, still using the original belt that came with it three years ago. I think if you cut the rubber tubing off, the bars will NOT grip the containers but you won't know until you try.
 
Why on earth did you put oil on the rolling bars? Mine has done hundreds of loads of brass and I've never oiled anything and it runs perfectly. I bought a pile of spare drive belts thinking they would break, still using the original belt that came with it three years ago. I think if you cut the rubber tubing off, the bars will NOT grip the containers but you won't know until you try.

The owner's manual says to place some oil on the bars where they contact the frame. I'm pretty sure what happened is that the unit was not level - and the oil seeped down the bar and under the plastic sleeve. I didn't oil the bar itself - the surface of it that is away from the frame. I oiled where it contacts the frame.
 
That happened to me as well and I do believe the manual says to oil it where it contacts the frame. I tried to remove the oil and nothing worked so I brought it back to HF and go a new one. This time no oil and it has worked tirelessly for 15 months.
 
Why on earth did you put oil on the rolling bars? Mine has done hundreds of loads of brass and I've never oiled anything and it runs perfectly. I bought a pile of spare drive belts thinking they would break, still using the original belt that came with it three years ago. I think if you cut the rubber tubing off, the bars will NOT grip the containers but you won't know until you try.

Same here. No oiling Don't for get these things are "rock tumblers" meaning they would run for days or weeks polishing stone. Mine runs maybe 20 hours a month if that.
 
My first tumbler was a HF single drum unit. It lasted 15 years until I "improved" it and had to get another one, two drum this time. I'd say you're putting too much oil on the bearings, just a drop will do. If you're using a thin oil, and enough to creep under the plastic sleeves, it waaaay too much oil. I've lubed the bearings on my HF several times with plain old motor oil (5-20 or 30 vis) I have a Lyman wobbler also but have found I can tumble over 100, 30-06 cases in my "custom" drum I made from a protein powder jug, and often use the HF first...
 
Get a can of CARB cleaner and spray the dickens out of everything that is involved with the rotation of the drum/rollers. THAT will remove the oil completely. Then if you feel you must lube use a small amount of lithium grease on the metal to metal contact areas where the shaft is. Be cautious as the CARB cleaner can eat up plastic.
 
I have the HF double tumbler. A little bit of silicone lube 3 years ago and still humming along smoothly. This rig does double duty for my brass and for my daughter's lapidary hobby. Still on the first belt too.
 
I have had the single drum unit for several years - have never oiled it. I am on my second belt but have had no other problems.
 
I have the HF double tumbler. A little bit of silicone lube 3 years ago and still humming along smoothly. This rig does double duty for my brass and for my daughter's lapidary hobby. Still on the first belt too.
Lapidary
For other uses, see Lapidary (disambiguation).
220px-Thai_Gem_Cutting.jpg
A rural Thai gem cutter (1988 photograph)
220px-Lapidary_tool_kit%2C_NPS.jpg
Lapidary tool kit from around 900 AD, Chaco Culture National Historical Park
220px-Zafirs-treball2.jpg
A jewellery worker in Sri Lanka (2006 photograph)
A lapidary (lapidarist, Latin: lapidarius) is an artist or artisan who forms stone, minerals, or gemstones into decorative items such as cabochons, engraved gems, including cameos, and faceted designs.[1][2] The primary techniques employed are cutting, grinding, and polishing.[2][3] Carving is an important, but specialised technique.[3]

Hardstone carving is the term used in art history for objects produced by the specialised carving techniques, and the techniques themselves. Diamond cutters are generally notreferred to as lapidaries, due to the specialized techniques which are required to work diamond. In modern contexts "gemcutter" typically refers to people who specialize in cutting diamonds, but in older historical contexts it refers to artists producing engraved gems such as jade carvings and the like. By extension the term "lapidary" has sometimes been applied to collectors of and dealer in gems, or to anyone who is knowledgeable in precious stones.[4]

Splatter gun , thanks for my new word of the day!
 
Hope the good tips given here help you. Mine's been going for three years now, I have never oiled it. Going to be upgrading to the Frankford Arsenal Platinum. Amazing deal for $129.00 at Midway and Amazon. The Harbor Freight is a great little tumbler for very little money but as you expand into more reloading, especially larger calibers, you will quickly need a larger tumbler.
 
I use corn cob media, just as I did in vibratory tumblers but this mixer gives the brass so much more agitation. I also let my dirty brass pile up a good bit more before I tumble because I can clean so much more at a time. It cleans 3, 2lb coffee cans of brass at a time with no problem.
 
A quick follow-up: The folks at Harbor Freight are great. I took it in and told them my predicament. They didn't even bat an eye: Since it was within 90 days of purchase they let me exchange it.

I'll see how it goes with no oil. And if I end up needing to put some on - holly smokes - it's going to be a tiny amount.

OR
 
A quick follow-up: The folks at Harbor Freight are great. I took it in and told them my predicament. They didn't even bat an eye: Since it was within 90 days of purchase they let me exchange it.

I'll see how it goes with no oil. And if I end up needing to put some on - holly smokes - it's going to be a tiny amount.

OR

The "destruction's" for the tumbler, say to oil the bearings.
I read that as a teeny tiny drop on the bearings only. As in a needle oilier;).
 
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