Used Highway Patrolman vs. new S&W 586/686 or Ruger SP100
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straightshooterjake
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I would partially agree with the above statement. It does take a lot of rapid double action to beat up a gun, but it is possible to beat a gun to death with dry fire. In fact, it may be more common to do thousands of dry fires than live fires. The impact on the cylinder notches is pretty much the same whether it is dry fire or live fire, and of course snap caps have no effect on this type of wear. This is one of the reasons that I am not a fan of dry firing a gun thousands of times to "smooth it out." I always recommend that anyone who wants a smoother trigger should let a qualified gunsmith take care of it. I often see debates about the best type of snap cap without any consideration about other areas that can wear from dry fire.
I also want to follow up to my previous post. I would highly recommend the model 28 to the OP of this thread. I did not mean to criticize the model 28, I was just trying to provide "full disclosure." If you shoot a model 28 at moderate speed, you pretty much can't wear it out. And I personally think an older model 28 is nicer than anything made more recently.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
In this context, "tens of thousands of rounds" would include dryfire practice.
I agree about action jobs. They accomplish far more than dry firing ever will. Many times a gunsmith can prevent the kind of wear you don't want.
I agree about action jobs. They accomplish far more than dry firing ever will. Many times a gunsmith can prevent the kind of wear you don't want.
Dog Soldier
member
I really find this cylinder latch issue very humorous. I was a IPSA competitor for many years. I started with N frames and ended with the 1911 Colt .38 Super +P. The .38 Super Compt. brass for unsupported chambers was not yet invented.
I must say in all my years in state an National competition handgun "Balance" was never mentioned. Where is the balance point on any S&W? Why does S&W or Colt not identify this? If I call S&W will they declare the balance point on any revolver? What does balance have to do with knocking iron down in 7 seconds at 20 yards?
When the 100 meter handgun Salute was being shot the guns were never chosen for balance. As for stress on the cylinder latch? Have you ever seen how weak a latch retainer spring is? The revolvers bolt and hand take the stress. The ratchet and hand plus bolt will fail and throw your revolver out of time. The misalignment of the cylinder will allow partial engagement in the recess damaging the latches. When using any revolver repeatably care should be given to removing carbon from under the ejectors. This throws the head space off damaging the ratchet. How can you discuss revolver timing and never address the hand and ratchet?
I must say in all my years in state an National competition handgun "Balance" was never mentioned. Where is the balance point on any S&W? Why does S&W or Colt not identify this? If I call S&W will they declare the balance point on any revolver? What does balance have to do with knocking iron down in 7 seconds at 20 yards?
When the 100 meter handgun Salute was being shot the guns were never chosen for balance. As for stress on the cylinder latch? Have you ever seen how weak a latch retainer spring is? The revolvers bolt and hand take the stress. The ratchet and hand plus bolt will fail and throw your revolver out of time. The misalignment of the cylinder will allow partial engagement in the recess damaging the latches. When using any revolver repeatably care should be given to removing carbon from under the ejectors. This throws the head space off damaging the ratchet. How can you discuss revolver timing and never address the hand and ratchet?
RealGun
Member
It seems passive-aggressive to disrespect the notion of balance in a gun just because someone said a gun like yours would benefit from a longer barrel.I really find this cylinder latch issue very humorous. I was a IPSA competitor for many years. I started with N frames and ended with the 1911 Colt .38 Super +P. The .38 Super Compt. brass for unsupported chambers was not yet invented.
I must say in all my years in state an National competition handgun "Balance" was never mentioned. Where is the balance point on any S&W? Why does S&W or Colt not identify this? If I call S&W will they declare the balance point on any revolver? What does balance have to do with knocking iron down in 7 seconds at 20 yards?
When the 100 meter handgun Salute was being shot the guns were never chosen for balance. As for stress on the cylinder latch? Have you ever seen how weak a latch retainer spring is? The revolvers bolt and hand take the stress. The ratchet and hand plus bolt will fail and throw your revolver out of time. The misalignment of the cylinder will allow partial engagement in the recess damaging the latches. When using any revolver repeatably care should be given to removing carbon from under the ejectors. This throws the head space off damaging the ratchet. How can you discuss revolver timing and never address the hand and ratchet?
red rick
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All the same price , that's easy the 28 . You just don't see them for sale everyday in my area . I really don't see many pre lock 686's for sale either . I see Ruger GP100 all the time , I have bought 2 recently one for $400 and the other $500 in EX condition , both SS 4" .
Dog Soldier
member
No name calling allowed. Passive Aggressive?
I own all manner of handguns. Your analysis of "Balance" would indicate a shorter barrel. The loaded frame and cylinder would put the weight above you gun hand off setting the muzzle heavy effect of a longer barrel. 
You may enjoy joining a Combat pistol team. The training you will recieve is valuable.
Good luck.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
So the concept of balance does not apply to handguns at all? Is that what you're saying?I really find this cylinder latch issue very humorous. I was a IPSA competitor for many years. I started with N frames and ended with the 1911 Colt .38 Super +P. The .38 Super Compt. brass for unsupported chambers was not yet invented.
I must say in all my years in state an National competition handgun "Balance" was never mentioned. Where is the balance point on any S&W? Why does S&W or Colt not identify this? If I call S&W will they declare the balance point on any revolver? What does balance have to do with knocking iron down in 7 seconds at 20 yards?
When the 100 meter handgun Salute was being shot the guns were never chosen for balance. As for stress on the cylinder latch? Have you ever seen how weak a latch retainer spring is? The revolvers bolt and hand take the stress. The ratchet and hand plus bolt will fail and throw your revolver out of time. The misalignment of the cylinder will allow partial engagement in the recess damaging the latches. When using any revolver repeatably care should be given to removing carbon from under the ejectors. This throws the head space off damaging the ratchet. How can you discuss revolver timing and never address the hand and ratchet?
Nobody said anything about stress on the cylinder latch. What IS being discussed is stress on the bolt and the bolt window in the frame due to the mass of the cylinder in a .357 N-frame.
Well I bought the S&W model 28 today. It has a 6 inch barrel and was pretty much as described except for one ding. First, the bore was excellent as were the original wood grips. The metal showed ware on the muzzle and on a few "sharp" edges where you would expect it from holstering. I found one "tick" mark that went thru the bluing about a 1/16 inch long. The cylinder locked up tight when I cocked the hammer and the timing was good. On my trigger gauge at home the SA pull averaged about or just under 3 pounds and was really nice, I don't know what the DA pull is because my gauge only goes to 8 pounds. I will shoot this pistol SA anyway so it does not matter. So the Ding, well it's a good thing I am not a collector because the previous owner replaced the front sight with some type of brass globe. The GS said that it could be replaced by a ramp front sight which would make it original. One thing I found interesting was that the cartridge rims are recessed into the cylinder. On my Taurus .357 mag and other high power pistols I have seen the cartridge rim is on the outside of the cylinder. When the weather gets good enough outside I plan to shoot is with some of my cast lead bullseye loads. I can't wait.
Elkins45
Member
They are on the outside on new production S&W revolvers as well. Recessed cylinders were eliminated as a cost cutting measure, in the 80's IIRC. Same with the pin preventing barrel rotation, which your gun likely also has. "Pinned and recessed" guns (often abbreviated P&R) command a premium among revolver buyers because they are seen as examples of old school quality.
CajunBass
Member
Good choice on the Model 28. I've owned a couple over the years and let go of them. Kinda sorry I did, but at the time it had to be done. The only N-frame I've got now is the 24-3 (44 Special) pictured in my avatar. A fine shooting revolver, which your 28 will be also I'm sure.
Oh...I forgot. I've got a 38/44 Heavy Duty, but I don't shoot that one.
Oh...I forgot. I've got a 38/44 Heavy Duty, but I don't shoot that one.
bannockburn
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netsew
Great choice! Sounds like you got a decent one there. Let us know how it does at the range and photos when you get a chance.
Great choice! Sounds like you got a decent one there. Let us know how it does at the range and photos when you get a chance.
Hangingrock
Member
S&W thru the years has had quality issues on and off depending on whom the parent owner was when the handgun was produced. I've own several M27 and M28 revolvers with S & N prefix serial numbers. There is a lot of difference between a Safe Queen and a Shooter.
The price for the pistol started at $799 and I got it down to $660. I pointed out the replacement front sight ( I really don't like it but it can be replaced) the wear on the muzzle the tick mark etc. as well as the usual hemming and hawing to get the price down. Then you have to add sales tax and the fee for the background check and it comes out to just about $700 OTD. As far as pictures are concerned, sorry but I don't know how to post pictures to a sight like this. As posted just above this is a shooter and I am not a collector so the pistol was not pristine but plenty good enough to shoot and that 2.8 - 2.9 pound SA trigger pull is so sweet.
Radagast
Member
Congratulations on your purchase.
Confederate
Member
My first choice would be a 6-inch used stainless Ruger Security-Six followed by the S&W 686. The former is the best carry gun you could ever want in .357. The 686 is the only .357 comparable to the Colt Python. The S&W 28 is easily the classiest.
Never much liked the other Colts. The S&W 28 is the heaviest carry gun, but despite the 686's great accuracy, I still like the GA-36 Ruger. It would be my first choice as a camping gun, fishing gun, hunting gun, cross country gun in a glove compartment and a home defense gun.
Never much liked the other Colts. The S&W 28 is the heaviest carry gun, but despite the 686's great accuracy, I still like the GA-36 Ruger. It would be my first choice as a camping gun, fishing gun, hunting gun, cross country gun in a glove compartment and a home defense gun.
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