PastorKim
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S & W 38 Special CTG 1909
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I believe that's a Model of 1905 4th change from 1915. Being stored in a leather holster may be the cause of its current condition. The leather will draw and hold moisture and constant exposure to the chemical residue from tanning doesn't help either.
bannockburn
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PastorKim
Like the look of that long 6" barrel! Haven't seen many like that.
Like the look of that long 6" barrel! Haven't seen many like that.
Driftwood Johnson
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Just so you know, 'S&W 38 SPECIAL CTG' is not a model name. That is the way S&W calls out the cartridge the revolver is chambered for. CTG is an abbreviation for cartridge, and S&W 38 Special is the same as 38 Special.
Agree, it is a very early 38 Military and Police Model of 1905, 4th Change. Serial numbers for this model ran from 241704 to 1000000 from 1915 until 1942.
Just so you know, 'S&W 38 SPECIAL CTG' is not a model name. That is the way S&W calls out the cartridge the revolver is chambered for. CTG is an abbreviation for cartridge, and S&W 38 Special is the same as 38 Special.
Agree, it is a very early 38 Military and Police Model of 1905, 4th Change. Serial numbers for this model ran from 241704 to 1000000 from 1915 until 1942.
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PastorKim
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Oh I didn't mean to make it sound like all that was the name of it. I was just typing everything I could read on it to give more information.
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PastorKim
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Ok, what would be the best way to improve on its current condition? I just found it with my parents things along with a couple other guns (newer) a samurai sword and a couple bayonets, among other things I never knew they had.
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PastorKim
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But I didn't know that. Thank you.
NIGHTLORD40K
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Looks like it was originally nickel plated. There may be a plating service in your town which could refinish the gun, or cerakote if you dont mind a matte finish.Ok, what would be the best way to improve on its current condition? I just found it with my parents things along with a couple other guns (newer) a samurai sword and a couple bayonets, among other things I never knew they had.
If you want it buffed and blued, I would call S&W to get an estimate- I don't think they do nickel restoration anymore though. They could also do a functional inspection for you, though parts may be an issue.
Nice gun with great family history! Definitely worth some time and money to restore and preserve.
The Evangelist Cowboy
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Are you wanting to shoot it and use it? or Just restore to an heirloom status that gets shot once or twice a year?Ok, what would be the best way to improve on its current condition? I just found it with my parents things along with a couple other guns (newer) a samurai sword and a couple bayonets, among other things I never knew they had.
If you want to use it, Id have a gunsmith polish the metal right, and apply cerakote or you can go even nicer and afford the chrome plating some custom shops like Ford's can do, If just a restoration piece have a gunsmith polish and reblue the metal, Id ask whatever gunsmith and see any examples they may have of their bluings. Be aware that the old deep blue finishes can still be done but theyre going to cost a pretty penny.
Driftwood Johnson
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Howdy
If it were mine, I would leave it exactly as it is, as a family memento. Just give it a light coating of oil to prevent further deterioration. And don't store it in the holster.
I agree, it looks to me like it was originally nickel plated.
However, I would be leery of sending it someplace to refinish that does not specialize in firearms restoration.
Too many times, fine old firearms have been refinished poorly by platers who are not familiar with plating firearms. Typical examples are over polishing, which blurs and softens original markings, rounding over edges which should not be rounded over, and nickel plating of triggers and hammers, which was never done on S&W revolvers.
If it were mine, and I wanted it restored, I would contact Turnbull Restoration Company, who is probably the best in the business.
https://www.turnbullrestoration.com/
Turnbull is not cheap, but he is the best in the business.
If it were mine, I would leave it exactly as it is, as a family memento. Just give it a light coating of oil to prevent further deterioration. And don't store it in the holster.
I agree, it looks to me like it was originally nickel plated.
However, I would be leery of sending it someplace to refinish that does not specialize in firearms restoration.
Too many times, fine old firearms have been refinished poorly by platers who are not familiar with plating firearms. Typical examples are over polishing, which blurs and softens original markings, rounding over edges which should not be rounded over, and nickel plating of triggers and hammers, which was never done on S&W revolvers.
If it were mine, and I wanted it restored, I would contact Turnbull Restoration Company, who is probably the best in the business.
https://www.turnbullrestoration.com/
Turnbull is not cheap, but he is the best in the business.
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PastorKim
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Oh it still shoots, so it is still functional. But thank you for the info on restoring. Unfortunately I have learned it can't be the gun I thought it was. I knew my mom had a gun from my grandfather that had been carried by a person in one of the posses that went after Jesse James. Obviously this can't be it as this one is from years after Jesse died. But I am still looking.
Driftwood Johnson
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Be careful about guns relating to Jesse James. His mother was well known to buy old guns, then sell them to unsuspecting marks as having belonged to Jesse.
Middletown
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Those bone grips are really cool! Is there a chance they are original to the gun or replacement?
Driftwood Johnson
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P.S.
One other thing.
From your photo of the butt, it appears someone has filed down the metal to match the shape of the grips. There appear to me to be file marks.
I hope the Serial Number has not been obscured because it is a Federal offense to own a firearm with a defaced Serial Number.
One other thing.
From your photo of the butt, it appears someone has filed down the metal to match the shape of the grips. There appear to me to be file marks.
I hope the Serial Number has not been obscured because it is a Federal offense to own a firearm with a defaced Serial Number.
Driftwood Johnson
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S&W began heat treating cylinders for this model in 1919 at SN 316648. However not having a heat treated cylinder does not automatically mean it is not a shooter. Just keep ammo down to moderate levels, and obviously no +P ammo.
No, those are not the original grips, the 4th change 1905 with a square butt came with walnut grips.
By the way, the right grip looks to me to be stag, not bone. Can't tell with the other one.
No, those are not the original grips, the 4th change 1905 with a square butt came with walnut grips.
By the way, the right grip looks to me to be stag, not bone. Can't tell with the other one.
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PastorKim
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Don't know for sure. Someone told me they would have been added. That person also asked me if my dad was ever in Japan. He was stationed there as an airplane mechanic in the Air Force in the 50s. Not sure if that means anything. Also inside the holster belt is the name R. YoungBlood written. Original owner maybe?
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PastorKim
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I can barely make out the serial number. It helps that it matches the one on the cylinder.
Tallball
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Mine is similar. It's from 1915 or 1916. It has barely any finish left. But it locks up pretty tight and I shoot a box of mild target loads through it from time to time. Like someone else said, worn or missing finish doesn't have major functional drawbacks. Don't let it get wet and always wipe it down with an mildly oily rag after you shoot/clean it. My kids will probably be shooting mine occasionally long after I'm gone.
Driftwood Johnson
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The Serial Number should appear in four separate locations on that revolver. Underside of the butt, underside of the flat under the barrel, rear of the cylinder, and underside of the extractor star. That is how one can tell if those parts were originally part of the revolver when it was shipped. However the serial number of record is the one on the bottom of the butt, and if has been made illegible it is a Federal offense to be in possession of the gun.
No way to confirm that, other than writing for a Factory Letter from Smith and Wesson. The cost of a letter is $50.
For what it's worth, Rufus Youngblood (1924-1996) was a Secret Service agent. He was on duty on November 22, 1963 when President Kennedy was assassinated. Youngblood was riding in Vice President Johnson's limousine, and when the shots rang out Youngblood vaulted over the seat and shielded Johnson with his body.
Although the revolver in question is clearly older than Rufus Youngblood, it is always possible he owned it at some point. A Factory Letter might or might not answer that question. If it did turn out that the revolver was owned by Rufus Youngblood, the Secret Service agent, it would have some collector's value because it was owned by a historical figure. If so, refinishing the gun would detract from its collector's value.
A long shot, but worth thinking about.
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PastorKim
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I see the letter is $75 now but I think that is well worth checking into. Thank you. That would be an awesome story for the gun too.
Hondo 60
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Wow, what beauty.
Personally, I think I'd spend the money to refinish it.
Even if I did want to shoot it regularly.
But that's just me.
Personally, I think I'd spend the money to refinish it.
Even if I did want to shoot it regularly.
But that's just me.
You need to vigorously rub that old revolver down with oil - right away. Remove the grips - use a proper gunsmithing screwdriver - there is probably a good deal of corrosion under them.
The model of 1905 is probably my single favorite firearm. Shoot , clean , lube , and enjoy.
The model of 1905 is probably my single favorite firearm. Shoot , clean , lube , and enjoy.
Its an interesting old gun, even if it doesnt end up having any history besides family history. I for one dont think the finish is too bad, and wouldnt under any circumstances consider one of the awful looking modern finishes on a classic old gun like that.
Avoid soaking it, such as wiping down and leaving or using in the bore and not drying well, cleaning solvents like Hoppes No 9 or others with ammonia in them, they can end up causing the nickel to flake off. They are OK for cleaning, use and dry off well, but not to leave on the nickel for any amount of time. Id also strongly suggest not using a stainless steel bore brush in it to clean it.
Avoid soaking it, such as wiping down and leaving or using in the bore and not drying well, cleaning solvents like Hoppes No 9 or others with ammonia in them, they can end up causing the nickel to flake off. They are OK for cleaning, use and dry off well, but not to leave on the nickel for any amount of time. Id also strongly suggest not using a stainless steel bore brush in it to clean it.
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