Cleaning an old ruger 22 auto

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I have one of these (standard model, to be precise) that is just a mess. The inside is filthy and I can hear grit inside when I cycle it, and malfunctions have become more frequent lately. I fire about 150 rounds a week through it, and have been for a long time. My normal post-range cleaning process involves brush and patch down the barrel (the wrong way), digging out what gunk I can through the ejection port with solvent-soaked q-tips, lube in the working parts, and an exterior wipe-down with oil. A few years ago I took it apart for a thorough cleaning, and was only able to get it back together with the help of youtube after an embarrassingly long time with a considerable amount of profanity. So disassembly is out- even whatever "easy way" anyone wants to share . Not doing it again unless I actually break it. I was thinking about removing the grips, locking the slide open, and soaking it in some type of solvent in a bucket or the like for a while to maybe loosen up a lot of the garbage in it and then blowing out what I can with compressed air. Does anyone else do this? If so, what solvent would be good? Also open to other ideas that don't involve taking it apart.
 
I have no "easy" way to suggest. Just that if you read the instructions it is never hard.

Other than that, take off the grips, and get a product like Dunk it.
 
I know this sounds condescending, but you should learn to take it apart. It's not that hard, especially for a once-a-year task.

This is like asking what gas to use in your car, because you don't want to go to the trouble to change the oil, ever.
 
I am someone who once paid a gunsmith to reassemble a MKII while I watched and still couldn’t do it myself next time :(

I later bought a stainless MKII and the gentleman gave me a takedown tool and literature and it’s easy as can be if I follow the instructions. I’d seriously suggest it as a necessity for the Ruger MK pistols. 473387B4-53BE-4555-A2B3-4739EF27D981.jpeg

Edit: it’s been a while, so I just tried it again just now. It’s still a downright goofy reassembly method, but the instructions make it doable. Shame on Ruger though. Without the instructions and tool, I’d rather throw myself down a flight of stairs.
 
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I like my MkII but I can disassemble my MkIV in the time it takes to read the first three words of the title in that instruction! And reassemble it before you have finished reading the title.

So where does one purchase this tool for the MkII?

3C
 
I like my MkII but I can disassemble my MkIV in the time it takes to read the first three words of the title in that instruction! And reassemble it before you have finished reading the title.

So where does one purchase this tool for the MkII?

3C
Mine came with the gun, but I see Brownells has them for $19.99 with the dealer discount. $25.99 without.

I’d say the well written instructions are equally as good/necessary as the tool.
 
Not doing it again unless I actually break it. I was thinking about removing the grips, locking the slide open, and soaking it in some type of solvent in a bucket or the like for a while to maybe loosen up a lot of the garbage in it and then blowing out what I can with compressed air. Does anyone else do this? If so, what solvent would be good? Also open to other ideas that don't involve taking it apart.

This should be ok. I sometimes spray solvent into the workings, let it soak for a while and then blow it out like you said. Never have dunked it into a bucket of solvent, though.
 
The hammer strut is the key. Once you get it , it makes sense.

YOUR PISTOL IS SCREAMING FOR A PROPER STRIP AND CLEANING. The Ruger Standard , or Mk, is prone to failures when dirty or poorly lubed.

Listen - I have the attention span of a gnat. Find a good step by step on the net , print it , put on your bench and bite the bullet. That's what I did , and if I can do it anyone can. You will feel better , and you will reap significant benefits in performance and piece of mind.

Either that , or take it to a 'smith. Your pistol deserves proper maintenance.
 
I used to charge $10 to put them back together. That was like making over $100 an hour.
I stripped down a MkIII today and cleaned it for a friend at work. They were surprised at how easy it was to break down. After I finished cleaning it they were amazed at how easily I put it back together. That had always been told that they were a pain to get back together.
Just think if you had never seen a doorknob and was told to open a door, you might hav a little trouble. With the Ruger, you just need to find the doorknob. :)
Here are some simple instructions that will make you a pro at putting one back together. You will need a paper clip and a soft mallet.
First de-cock the gun. Use the paper clip to catch the takedown lever on the back of the grip. Pull it down to unlock the backstrap. With the backstrap out pull it down to remove the pin from the frame.
Now stop for a second and look at the backstrap. It is actually the main spring housing. There is a little cup on the top kind of like on a 1911. When putting the gun back together the hammer strut needs to rest in that cup. Well get back to it later.
To remove the bolt. This is where some start to have trouble. You remember that doorknob? Now is time to stop and get a flashlight to have a look at the doorknob. Shine into the back of the grip and you will see a pin that goes across the inter frame. It looks like it’s there for nothing, but it the sear spring retaining pin. Look to the far right side of the pin and you will see the tail of the sear spring. That is your doorknob. But let’s call it a fence for right now. Look above it and you should see the hammer strut. Let’s call the strut a chicken. If your chicken is sitting on top of the fence, the hammer will not move and you will not be able to pull the bolt out. Hold the gun like your going to shoot it with one hand and grab the back of the bolt with the other. Point the gun up and back a little and shake and pull the bolt out . Now take the soft mallet, or a piece of wood, and tap the back of the frame where the bolt was. This will remove the barrel and upper frame from the lower frame. Now you’re ready to clean your gun.
Ok you have it all clean and ready to put it back together. At the front of the upper frame there is a notch. The front of the lower frame has a hook. Lay the upper on the lower and push the upper back. Most likely you will need the soft mallet to tap the front of the barrel to get it in place. Be sure that the back of the upper frame is just a little pass the lower frame at the rear. If not you will not be able to put the rear pin back in.
Know we’re back at that doorknob, or chicken and fence. Make sure the chicken is not sitting on top of the fence. Look into the back where the bolt goes in, you should not see the hammer sticking up. If it is, tilt the barrel up and push it down . Once the hammer is down the bolt will slide in.
Now here is where most people have trouble, curse a lot, then go to a Gunsmith. Your Gunsmith will take your gun to the back room, saying to himself “what an idiot “, then come back after working his dark magic and charge you a small fee.
Here is how to avoid the Gunsmith. Point the gun down so that the hammer strut, the chicken, with be by the fence. Now insert the frame pin and push it up. This will be stif on a new gun. Once you have it in place turn the gun over in your left hand, in your right if your left handed, and put your thumb in the trigger guard. Now this is very important. The gun is now upside down in your hand with your thumb in the trigger guard barrel pointing away from you. Pull the trigger with your thumb a tilt the gun back. The chicken, or hammer strut if you want to call it that, will fall back to you. With the trigger pulled close the backstrap and lock the lever. Grab the bolt and pull it to the rear. Your done.
If you’re the type that needs pictures I will have to dig one of the Rugers out of the safe and take pics tomorrow.
 
Take apart and reassembling a MK is not difficult. People that have difficulty have not figured out the proper angle of the dangle of the hammer strut.

I agree with this, but I know that's not what you (the OP) wanted to hear, so I'll admit the I seldom take one apart. I just remove the magazine and grips, work the bolt back and forth as I spray it down with Gunscrubber. After it dries I put a drop of oil here and there, and it seems to find where it's supposed to go somehow. I probably over oil it a little, and wipe the excess off as it weeps out. Then I wipe the exterior down. I might or might not run a patch down the bore.
 
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I know you don't want to take it down, but you'll be able to.
Have the video that Railroader posted handy and pay careful attention to the hammer strut portion as well as magazine insertion and removal.
I've taken my Mark 3 all the way down numerous times, and rest assured that any time I have missed a step and it won't work that going back a couple of steps fixes it.
 
If you can take the grips and all plastic parts out (I have no idea if a ruger standard has any plastic parts), brake parts cleaner and compressed air should get it pretty well cleaned out.
 
I bought a Mark III .22/45 with a threaded barrel. It did not require much cleaning. Then I got a suppressor. It gets dirty a lot faster with the can in place.

I do the spray cleaner mostly but it’s good to break it down every once in a while. It does get easier after a few times.
 
diesel is a cheap and effective solvent for what you want here. i don't see a problem with your idea. let us know how it works out for you.

luck,

murf
 
Just a warning about the grips. They hold the various pins in place so be careful not to lose a pin when you remove them. I have a Standard model that I sent back to Ruger because the pins were working loose and the fix was to replace the grips which were worn on the inside.
 
The real problem with the Ruger strip and reassembly is that people do it so infrequently. If you're a gunsmith or for some other reason you strip and reassemble them almost daily, it's easy. If you do it once a year you wind up trying to remember all the tricks necessary to do it successfully.
 
The real problem with the Ruger strip and reassembly is that people do it so infrequently. If you're a gunsmith or for some other reason you strip and reassemble them almost daily, it's easy. If you do it once a year you wind up trying to remember all the tricks necessary to do it successfully.
It’s easier to disassemble and reassemble then a 1911.
 
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