Cheetah 12 muzzle but removal

Status
Not open for further replies.

Flyboy73

Member
Joined
May 5, 2004
Messages
1,038
Location
AZ
Hello,

Just picked a cheetah 12 and wanted to add a muzzle device to the gun. They are supposed to be threaded the same as the saiga 12. But i can not get the muzzle nut off. Tried some Kroil, then heated the nut with a mapp torch, but no luck. I am pretty sure they are normal right hand threaded. Am i missing something?

Brion
 
I saw on a website that they sell three different levels of lock-tite to use when installing those devices. How hot did you get the muzzle nut? Sometimes just very warm will do it, other times have to get them pretty hot to soften the lock-tite enough to break it loose. Other than that maybe a call to the company for "special instructions" Can you see any of the threads on the barrel itself?
 
I got it too hot to touch and burned off the Kroil. But not glowing. Will take back to the gun shop i bought and see if they have any luck. Looks like there are threads. My saiga 12 you could take the muzzle nut off with your hands. I couldn't find anyone on the net having a problem getting the nut off.

Awhile back i took off the fake Muzzle device off a Daewoo DR200 to replace with the correct flash hider, and that one was a pain. I had to heat that one to glowing to get off.

Brion
 
If you still have it at home and want to five it another go, the threads should be M22x.75RH. I do a lot of automotive work and encounter thread locker all the time. Heat is your only solution in many applications - loctite is impervious to oils and most solvents. Those products are for rust.

The industry seems to have standardized the color codes for threadlocker. Purple is lowest strength and usually just takes a small rap to break tension (40 foot pounds).

Blue is next up. On larger parts can be overcome with 150 foot pounds of pressure or 300 degree heat.

Red and green are basically supposed to be permanent attachments. Breakaway torque can be in excess of 250 foot pounds which is often above the strength of non-hardened threads, so heat is the only reliable way to remove. Red and green needs 450-525 degrees depending on brand of threadlocker.

I wouod start with a careful visual inspection to ensure the brake wasn't spot welded or pinned (some markets require such silliness). Assuming its just glued on and not cross threaded or mechanically stuck on, your mapp gas torch will get plenty hot. Keep applying heat until you can see smoke and hear it bubbling in the joint. It will re-glue as it cools so turn it while hot and clean off the threads before putting anything back together.

Good luck!
 
Gun shop was able to get the muzzle nut off. Said it was on really tight. Factory in China must have cranked it down.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top