Help me get this loathsome lanolin film off 2,500 cases by using my wet tumbler.

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I can't speak to your current problem since there has already been a chemical/physical change in the lanolin due to the previous failed attempt to remove. For rifle cases I remove the lanolin by washing in a strong mixture of Simple Green and hot water with a small amount of Dawn. I can still feel a slight amount of lanolin on the brass after this, but my normal tumbling in corncob, Nufinish and mineral spirits takes care of it. Pistol rounds go in the tumbler for about 5 min after loading and come out clean.
 
Everyone is suggesting petroleum based products of some type to remove lanolin.

If Lanolin is a wax? Then a tumble in Corn cob or walnut shell may work a lot better? Maybe?


Petroleum based products may damage brass , over time, when in long term storage. 10 + years.
Short term, not a problem. Imo.
 
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"
A typical high-purity grade of lanolin is composed predominantly of long chain waxy esters (approximately 97% by weight) the remainder being lanolin alcohols, lanolin acids and lanolin hydrocarbons.[1]

An estimated 8,000 to 20,000 different types of lanolin esters are present in lanolin, resulting from combinations between the 200 or so different lanolin acids and the 100 or so different lanolin alcohols identified so far"

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lanolin

"Lanolin is not soluble in water or mineral oil but is miscible without phase separation with about twice its weight of water. It is sparingly soluble in cold alcohol and more so in hot alcohol. Lanolin is highly soluble in chloroform and ether.........."
 
I use a lanolin spray (Dillon) every time I resize. I dry tumble in corncob, with a couple of tablespoons of mineral spirits afterwards and never had a problem.

Corncob or walnut take lanolin off easily.
 
i know that this is an "after the fact" bit of advice but 12:1 ISO/lanolin mix cleans off much easier for me if i wet tumble with hot water and wash/wax immediately after sizing.

leaving the cases sit overnight seems to make it much more difficult to remove.

i forget who mentioned this hint. (someone on this site)
 
o_O

Lanolin MELTS at around 100 F. Go to the thrift store and buy an old pot.

Boil some water (212 F) and put small amounts of brass in at a time. Remove with a slotted spoon(thrift store also) put on a old towel.
 
From Wikipedia
Lanolin is extracted by washing the wool in hot water with a special wool scouring detergent
Special wool scouring detergent, hhhmmmm

Lanolin MELTS at around 100 F. Go to the thrift store and buy an old pot.
Hotter water may be a simple answer.
Simple is good.
 
I have nothing to contribute, as I’ve never used lanolin or any other home made lubricant for my brass. Nonetheless, thanks for sharing your horrible experience...it will save others from attempting this themselves. I’m expecting some goodies this Christmas that will allow me to start loading for .300 AAC Blackout, my very first rifle cartridge. I had already prepared an Amazon order for a Lanolin home brew that I picked up off the site. That order is now on infinite hold.
Thanks for your public service announcement.
 
I have nothing to contribute, as I’ve never used lanolin or any other home made lubricant for my brass. Nonetheless, thanks for sharing your horrible experience...it will save others from attempting this themselves. I’m expecting some goodies this Christmas that will allow me to start loading for .300 AAC Blackout, my very first rifle cartridge. I had already prepared an Amazon order for a Lanolin home brew that I picked up off the site. That order is now on infinite hold.
Thanks for your public service announcement.

If you make it correctly and use it correctly you'll have no problems. Don't forget that the OP started off with the wrong kind of lanolin and things went downhill from there.
 
I had already prepared an Amazon order for a Lanolin home brew that I picked up off the site. That order is now on infinite hold.

There is nothing wrong with the homemade lanolin lube overall, but you have to learn the best way to use it. There are a few lessons to be learned from this thread, some of which is speculation since I can't see exactly what the OP did:

1) The OP mentioned in another thread that he was using solid lanolin rather than liquid. Might be too thick? Just guessing...
2) He also mentioned in that other thread that he had a hard time getting it to dissolve. Maybe too much lanolin in the mixture? 12:1 is a good place to start.
3) It sounds like he might have sprayed too much lanolin on his cases. A couple of short sprays is all that is needed. Roll them around, it is amazing how just a very little bit will coat a lot of brass.
4) Don't wait too long to remove it after sizing.

A funny analogy regarding #3 above: I sometimes roast raw almonds coated with olive oil in the oven to use as a healthy snack. The recipe calls for 1 tablespoon of olive oil for a pound of raw almonds. When you put the almonds in the tray, and then pour 1 tablespoon of olive oil on top of the almonds, I say every time, "there is no way that is enough olive oil to coat the almonds". Yet, everytime, there is PLENTY!!! Once I mix the almonds arounds with a spatula and turn them over and over, it amazes me every time that every single almond gets WELL coated.

Same thing with the lanolin: use a LOT LESS than you think you need, and roll the cases around a lot in the tray/box/bag that are using. I prefer the large Ziplock baggie method: Fill a gallon Ziplock baggie with a bunch of brass so that you can keep them as a single layer in the bag when laying flat on the bench. Spray one or two sprays of 12:1 Lanolin mix into the bag (start with 1 spray... trust me). Seal the bag, then rub them around-and-around inside of the bag for a minute or two to evenly coat all of the brass. Then I dump them out on a couple of layers of paper towels and let them sit for about 2-3 minutes before loading. Works great.

Be sure to clean them right away after sizing.

Just my 2 cents...
 
I have nothing to contribute, as I’ve never used lanolin or any other home made lubricant for my brass. Nonetheless, thanks for sharing your horrible experience...it will save others from attempting this themselves. I’m expecting some goodies this Christmas that will allow me to start loading for .300 AAC Blackout, my very first rifle cartridge. I had already prepared an Amazon order for a Lanolin home brew that I picked up off the site. That order is now on infinite hold.
Thanks for your public service announcement.

Kind of a funky attitude - but I get it - reloading is a serious science with lots of creativity around the fringes. That said, there are "home brew" mixes that work just fine, so the PSA here is follow a tried and true recipe, or if you try something new, just do a few cases, 10 or 20 or some small sample. Not 1200.

I stated earlier - I use liquid lanolin, coconut oil, and 99% IPA. This makes a fantastic, easy clean lube.
 
I stated earlier - I use liquid lanolin, coconut oil, and 99% IPA. This makes a fantastic, easy clean lube.[/QUOTE]

What is your mix ratio using the lanolin and coconut oil, this sounds interesting.
 
I stated earlier - I use liquid lanolin, coconut oil, and 99% IPA. This makes a fantastic, easy clean lube.

What is your mix ratio using the lanolin and coconut oil, this sounds interesting.

16 fl.oz bottle, ~0.5 fl oz liquid lanolin depending on your dies, cases, issues, 0.5 oz coconut oil, remainder 99 % IsoPropylAlcohol (IPA). Light, easy to clean, but plenty of lube.
 
From the time I started loading, at 14 years of age in 1958, I was always taught to remove every trace of lube from the cases.
A lot has changed in the intervening 60 years...much of it for the better. I remember being taught to blow down the muzzle of a black powder rifle to "clear" and remaining embers.

Neither One-Shot nor the lanolin mixture have the same effect on powder as previous lubes. Depending on how I'm intending to use the ammo, I'll often leave it on also
 
The joys of wet tumbling brass. Glad I never got involved with washing my brass, dealing with water then drying the stuff. 1/2 hour in the corn cob media and my brass is good to go, 2 or so hours in the corn cob if I didn't tumble before sizing to get them shiny. Brass sets around for a few years and has a dull appearance well another 1/2 hour in the corn cob and there back to normal and ready to load. I just don't get the appeal of wet tumbling and all that goes with it when in just a couple hours I can have clean brass ready to load without the mess and drying times.
 
The joys of wet tumbling brass. Glad I never got involved with washing my brass, dealing with water then drying the stuff. 1/2 hour in the corn cob media and my brass is good to go, 2 or so hours in the corn cob if I didn't tumble before sizing to get them shiny. Brass sets around for a few years and has a dull appearance well another 1/2 hour in the corn cob and there back to normal and ready to load. I just don't get the appeal of wet tumbling and all that goes with it when in just a couple hours I can have clean brass ready to load without the mess and drying times.

Dry tumbling and the nasty dust, hassle, unlcean primer pockets. No thanks when wet tumbling is so easy.
 
From Wikipedia

Special wool scouring detergent, hhhmmmm


Hotter water may be a simple answer.
Simple is good.

WOOLITE AND HOT WATER:rofl:
Kind of a funky attitude - but I get it - reloading is a serious science with lots of creativity around the fringes. That said, there are "home brew" mixes that work just fine, so the PSA here is follow a tried and true recipe, or if you try something new, just do a few cases, 10 or 20 or some small sample. Not 1200.

I stated earlier - I use liquid lanolin, coconut oil, and 99% IPA. This makes a fantastic, easy clean lube.

You waste good IPA on lubing cases? Plus the good brands are expensive.:)
 
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