Walking on Water

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caribou

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North West Alaska
AKA ''Snow and ice'' and so we do actually lose touch with the Earth, 'cept the occasional tromp on windblown Tundra or Rocks .... :D

Made trail to the Kiwalik, in a 5 hour round trip, and bumped into some tracks allready made and some being made.
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All got a pass, I burned more gas than I thought I would and straight home was the only option, which worked out to 1/2 gallon left in the tank when I got home.
The Sun came and went from pretty freekin' fast.....
 
Open, rolling tundra, like the Great Plains used to be, 'cept Caribou here and not Buffalo......

Follow and hunt Caribou and all that also hunt them..... :D With a few small herds in the area, a trapline is very productive untill the suns up long enough to hunt the Caribou, at the end of January.
 
LOL!

""The Kiwalik' is an area. There is Kiwalik Mountain, Kiwalik Valley, Kiwalik River, Kiwalik Lagoon, Kiwalik Flats, Kiwalik Spit and there used to be a small town of Kiwalik on the spit, to unload and store gold mining supplies at Candle and the gold mines in the area........then Spafeiraf Bay to its north.
The river runs south to North, into Kotzebue Sound by the ChuckChi Sea, North of the Bering Sea. The abandoned Gold Rush town of Candle is a few miles from our camps. Inupiaq ''Keevalook'' ""Muskrat'' with the W pronounced as a long V because its a phonetic spelling by a Dane, Otto von Kotzebue, who first mapped the Sound and its rivers.........but whatever....LOL!!
Its where the ''Malamuit'' people (a neighboring tribes name for them) are from and their surplus dogs were sold to gold miners in the Gold Rush went south and became a popular breed of Husky. In the 1930's the AKC came to Ktzebue town and registered a Kiwalik dogteam, among others, for the breed.


I have walked most all of this area when I was a young and hunting hard, year round.

We are very much in tune with the weather. We listen to the National Weather service on the Radio every 1/2 hour for predictions and current conditions.
We stay on shore when the wind hits 20 Knots, and home when the wind on land hits 25 mph
Theres the various ways we navigate;
'MarkedTrails' that connect the villages are well marked with standing willow wands with a bit of reflective tape, every 10th of a mile across the ice of rivers, lakes inlets and the Ocean. On land there are permanent tripods, broken sleds, old drums and such that mark out ancient and well used trails. Most have a swath of reflective tape on them, as the trail makers repair and replace during their maintainance work.
We often target a trail to haul a load, say a few Caribou in the sled, and when we leave we plan to catch onto the well traveled and well packed (saves gas) and if theres any problems, we will have help after a spell.


"Off trail''
Carry a compass. You can Trend tward a trail or river or land that way, in the biggest waves and the blowing snow, as well, KNOW when to stay put, at home or out there.

We all have ''travel bags'' that allows us the minimums for camping out unexpectedly. The mental frame of mind that you can and possibly will overnight out there helps alot when you put a sleeping bag in your sled or on your back rack. Break down? got to bed....LOL! I also take a book, something to kill time in a tight spot, start a fire or wipeth thy butt....

Hunting places, over time, a body gets to ''Know'', and often you just go by memories, Inuksuk rock stacks, odd bits drums, camps and the rivers in the particular areas flow a certain way.
Every creek has a name , every creek leads to a river and all rivers are very well known. Willows and in some places, trees line the rivers so a windbreak can be found and some fuel for cook out while camping or waiting...
We have a good idea where the sun rises and sets , or comes close enough to the horizon to make a 'day' at whatever time of year it is. In summer, during the 24 hour daylight, our horizon to the dead north gets 'dipped' by the Sun. Seeing/knowing where the Sun is helps alot to give you direction. We use our extended hand to count the hours of daylight, each finger is about 15 minutes, and we track the horizon and determine how much light we should have,and it works too..

Boating in the Ocean can be a trick with fog, tides and waves, so PLENTY of gas is always aboard.....
The Northern Lights run West/East. The winter prevailing winds are North and East. The ''windrows' will set up , and if one takes note of such, they can be used to determine the trend your riding.
We have Polaris on clear nights, and the clearest Milkyway in North America.
We watch Moon phases as we have but 2 hours of day light now, and most riding is in the dark untill late January (then we go hunting!!!)
We often travel down the rivers and see branches and camps along it and ''know'' where we are.

The Ocean has currents, pile ups and bergs, with cracks and openings.South winds bring up 4 feet more tide, and that makes for overflow

We ''Trend'' tward a place we want to be, because few straight lines can be driven or walked without a cliff at the oceans edge, a steep creek filled loosely with snow or a rocky bare area, a river, and we do have hills and mountains and all the features they offer. Trees and willows hold snow and it can be very deep in them.
 
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All that sounds amazing. I always tell myself if I were to end up a single man again I would sell everything except my tools and guns and head up to Alaska. I need to see the northern lights before I die. Keep living the Dream!
 
All that sounds amazing. I always tell myself if I were to end up a single man again I would sell everything except my tools and guns and head up to Alaska. I need to see the northern lights before I die. Keep living the Dream!


Come up anyways, and bring your wife. An experience shared and warmer at night :D
 
Well, theres the city of Fairbanks for the Northern Lights and all the other things one might find In Winter, Chena Hot Springs, etc.
Never know, you might find yerself, and her, in this great state someday :D
 
Caribou,
Thanks for your reply. I learned a long time ago to ask a question if I want to know something. Now I know what a Kiwalik is.
You must remember, most of us read your posts in awe. Because we live basically sheltered lives in places that when we travel, we worry about a drunk driver or some other crazy running over us. You live in a place, or so I think, where a wrong decision could cost you your life, or the lives of your loved ones.

Thanks again, and have a blessed day,

Leon
 
I've seen the northern lights about 4-5 times when in Wisconsin, Manitoba, and Montana. Never been close to Alaska (Tacoma, Wash. was the closest).

Thanks for the tips on navigating up there, Caribou. Very educational, especially the 'fingers toward the sun' and the snow windrows.
 
Really enjoy reading your stuff. What away to live your life. Would love to VISIT alaska, but only visit, dont think I'd enjoy the winter there at all. Hats off to you. I love the outdoors. But the older I get the less I like the cold. Hell it's 18 and windy this morning which aint that cold and I'm ready to head south, it's kinda miserable LOL. Don't enjoy it like I did when I was a kid. Was nice having snow on the ground for hunting ,but after the season ends I'm over it LOL. Someday I'll find a new state to live in, saving my pennies till then. Always been interested in hilltowns of Arizona,new mexico and maybe utah where there is some snow and it cools off in the winters. But nothing like the north east hitting - temps for days and 18 inches of snow in a storm. Dreaming of chasing elk and mulies. Someday...anyways kinda irrelevant to the thread I guess. Thanks for sharing your experiences here , it's really cool reading about them.
 
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Wow, I guess I wouldn't leave home without my Garmin Etrek. :D Compass to back it up, of course. Does the proximity of magnetic north bother a compass up there?

Obligations have always kept me in Texas, but ya know, I'm not much of a cold weather guy. I had to break ice once to give the ducks a place to land. It was 17 degrees and I froze my butt off, but had fun. I was young and dumb. Heck, that's down right balmy sunbathing weather up there. :rofl:

You do have some interesting and fun sounding adventures up there. :D
 
We deliniate Magnetic from True North with 10 degrees of the compass here.
Mostly a compass is used for Trending,moving in a direction with lots of detours and getting back on course........ but sometimes its a straight shot across sea or ice, just foggy, as it often is near cold waters.

Thos days are fun, holding the throttle on a snowgo,, doing 90 for 1/2 hour stretch, or full out in a boat, on a smooth windless Sunny day......rare enough to really enjoy when those days come along :D

I actually like to write and relate whats happening, Im glad it comes off in a good way .
 
Between Caribou's writing and some comments here, I'm wondering if maybe Caribou should be an outdoor writer. I'm seeing stuff a good many outdoor writers don't cover lately. And when they do, half the time they sound like weekend warriors or vacation salesmen. I read two Jack London novels... "Call of the Wild" and "White Fang"... when I was a kid. IIRC, Jack London mostly wrote action... didn't seem to get into how-to much. I'm thinking of stuff like Caribou's post on sinew... a real useful piece of the knowledge base.
 
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Thanks for the good 'reviews'.......I think writing will be in my future, as Im almost 50 and theres a few storys to tell yet.

Books about my view of the world would be most likely, and the photos are mine.....maybe just getting started is the hardest part.
Well, at least untill then, Im writing here and a few other spots.
 
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