setting up to load 300wm

jetech said:

I just picked up a new Rem 700 SPS in 300 WM so now I am looking for advice on dies. I have loaded 308's and 223's but nothing that looks like an artillery shell.
I don't know if since it is a bolt gun I should just neck resize or use a full length die. Can anyone who is familiar with the 300 give their thoughts on loading this cartridge. The intent is to use this rifle for learning to shoot long distance but not competition.
Thanks

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If it's a sporter weight SPS, add a bunch of weight would be my first suggestion lol.
I size all my shells till they will just chamber without resistance, so full length, but not pushing the shoulder back too far.

I used 208 Amax and 7828, or Retumbo, in my last .300
Retumbo might be on the slow side but it worked pretty well.

The easiest, most consistent, path is to use a FL die, and set the shoulder back just enough; this avoids the head separations of FL sizing, and the eventual chambering issues of neck-sizing.

If you intend to really dive into experimental reloading, I suggest a micrometer seater; the ability to dial changes saves hours over just a few batches.

In both cases, RCBS, Hornady (NOT American), or Redding make great gear and have great CS.

I use XDies in .223 Rem (bolt and ARs), and .30-06 (M1); I like them. I'm sure they're not suitable for benchrest, but I turn in 0.5MOA work with my .223 bolt gun fairly regularly.

I agree on replacing the stock; Remington should be ashamed of that crap! You might try to sit behind someone running a brake before adding that; I mind the noise more than the recoil.

300WM is a belted magnum, which typically means shorter brass life as the case stretches just above the belt. Use a full length sizing die, but partially size the case to fit your chamber and headspace on the shoulder (not the belt). In my experience, it is most accurate at near max charges with magnum (slow) powders. If long range target is it's application, then use the 200gr+ high bc match bullets.

Recoil is significant. It looks like OP is already thinking about it by mentioning a muzzle brake. Every shot sets off about 70grs of powder to push a 180gr+ bullet. You can't get around the laws of physics on this one. The recoil is equal; it's opposite; and it will wear you out quickly. Adding weight to the rifle can help. A muzzle device can help (to the chagrin of your shooting neighbors). It would not be my first choice of caliber in repeated shooting at long range, but it will get you there.

300WM is an excellent long range big game hunting caliber. The magnumitis of the 1960's desired to extend the "point blank" range over 3006. It does this well.

I do not know if 300WM a good cartridge to be used with the RCBS X-die (no experience). But just in thought, a person will typically not get the amount of fires through a piece of belted brass... and if you're only partially resizing anyway... it seems like the benefits of the X-die don't quite align with the needs of loading 300WM.

I am running imr 7977 with hornady 200 gr eldx bullet. Still in development but I am thinking this is the combo for my gun, no noticeable difference between 100° and 12° the last time I shot. Very important when I live in Wisconsin where I could have a foot of snow one day and the temp can jump up to 75 the next.

IMR7977 and H1000 have a softer recoil impulse for the velocity in my experience.
I only shoot mid range so I have no input in bullets.

I have both the Redding neck sizing and the full length with the neck bushings. I didn’t see any difference between them so I just full length size now. I anneal after every two firings to keep consistent neck tension. Imr 7828 and reloader 22 for powders, 200-220 smk bthp have been doing great but I’m going to give h1000 a try soon. As for brass I’ve got 5 firings on my Norma brass and still going I didn’t get that many with Hornady doing all the same things. My friends that I shoot with have .338 lapua, 300 rum, and 50bmg so muzzle the blast from my 300wm isn’t much. It looks like you took a shovel with dirt and weeds and threw it on the shooting mat after the 50 goes off.

300WM is a belted magnum, which typically means shorter brass life as the case stretches just above the belt.

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That’s because people don’t.

I size all my shells till they will just chamber without resistance, so full length, but not pushing the shoulder back too far.

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Setting your dies by running them down to the shell holder and locking the ring down is for straight walled rounds. Others deserve a little more time setting to get the best results.

I reload for a 375 H&H,( also belted) First time with new brass, it gets full length sized, after that, I raise the die about the width of a nickle and only partial size. I check to see if the bolt will close before loading. These are only used in one rifle. If the bolt wont close on an empty case, I lower the die a little at a time until it does.

As others have mentioned; Properly sizing magnum rounds is crucial to ensure proper case life and safety. You'll be able to tell when that case is coming up to the shoulder in the die. I simply insert the case onto the plate(on my Dillon 550) and allow it to stop on it's own and then back it off(die) until I'm just able to feel a small bit of resistance. That resistance is the shoulder...so I'm merely "kissing" it enough to index on basically. I use LEE dies exclusively any more and am very happy with their factory crimp die which I find makes for more consistent velocities. No more than .004" is necessary though so no need to really start bending that apex.

A good way to get used to the recoil...as how it relates to accuracy...is to simply start with low power loads. Start WAY down the chart using light loads/light bullets and step your way up. It gives you trigger time, ability to fine tune your position and you won't get discouraged in a way that some people do when developing the dreaded flinch after their first wallop. You can easily down load to be little more than a 30-06 and then work up a few grains at a time using the same light bullet. After that, and if needed...increase bullet weight, start low on powder and head up again.

I posted this in another thread but it may be useful to the OP here as well...

FWIW...a good fairly accurate formula to calculate felt recoil of any caliber is...

R=[(b+p)xp]÷(fx80)

R= Recoil in lbs
b= Bullet weight in grains
p= Powder weight in grains
f= Total firearm weight in pounds

Now, as felt recoil is subjective this just assigns a number so you can compare loads relative to others.