Please define a “quality” holster.

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rpenmanparker

rpenmanparker

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You know. The ones that give folks confidence to carry a Glock which has no thumb safety or a condition 1 1911. I read about such thngs here all the time generally just describedas “quality holster”. Exactly what are the characteristics that impart the confidence?
 
While angle of carry and how it attaches to the belt will often be a matter of personal preference or body build, I think some things are universal qualities of a Quality Holster

Doesn't collapse when gun is withdrawn
Mouth stays open and doesn't require another hand to re-holster
Allowance/Clearance for the front sight so it doesn't snag
Clearance around the root of the trigger guard to allow the middle finger access to the front strap junction
Trigger guard covered pass the face of the trigger
Initial retention via molding
Smooth release as soon as the gun is lifted
Stays in place when belt is tightened
 
A metal reinforced mouth is nice.
Good boning adds to the appearance.
Comfort, ease of draw, excellent retention and the ability to retain this for a very long period of time. This is where the high quality holsters shine.
 
9mmepiphany said:
While angle of carry and how it attaches to the belt will often be a matter of personal preference or body build, I think some things are universal qualities of a Quality Holster

Doesn't collapse when gun is withdrawn
Mouth stays open and doesn't require another hand to re-holster
Allowance/Clearance for the front sight so it doesn't snag
Clearance around the root of the trigger guard to allow the middle finger access to the front strap junction
Trigger guard covered pass the face of the trigger
Initial retention via molding
Smooth release as soon as the gun is lifted
Stays in place when belt is tightened
Click to expand...
This and the quality of the belt is just as important as the holster.
 
1. A holster that is made specifically for the model of gun in question. In other words, fit needs to have been an important part of the design and manufacture. This means that the holster needs to fit the gun well and provide some basic level of retention so the gun doesn't come out or shift around inside the holster. I don't bother with holsters that have a list of the firearms they will fit on the back of the package and I would recommend that others who are concerned about quality and safety should do the same.

2. It needs to be designed to cover the parts of the gun that could be operated to fire the pistol and to do so in a protective manner. In a Glock, that means a rigid/semi-rigid design that completely denies access to the trigger while the gun is holstered.

3. It should be made so that as it degrades with time, that degradation is obvious so that the user can make an accurate determination of when it should be discarded and replaced.

There may be more things to consider, but that's what springs to mind at the moment.
 
Any quality holster will have very good trigger protection. I do this in a very simple way when I get a new holster, especially leather ones. Unloaded firearm goes in. And I try all sorts of twisting and poking methods with my fingers to activate the trigger. If I can pull the trigger through the holster, I toss it (the holster). As a leather holster breaks in, I will keep doing this test periodically to make sure the trigger is still protected.
 
frogfurr said:
If the wait time for a quality holster is several months there is probably a good reason for that.
Click to expand...
So let me see if I understand. You are saying that a quality holster is completely defined by having to wait several months to receive it? Sure, that makes sense.
 
The suitability of the design coupled with the materials and skill used in the manufacture would be my definition.
Design elements are dependent on the end use (Duty, CCW, Hunting, Competition, etc...)
Stinky when wet urine tanned paper thin leather that collapses and cr@p stitching are not indications of quality.
 
The problem with quality holsters is you can't buy them from brick & mortars, so ordering online, by default, is your only source. That means you can't try them on like a shirt from Belk, and this is an important element because body build will change comfort and functionality from one person to the next. Ask anyone here. We all have a drawer full of holsters. So will you, if your carry constantly and want the best in comfort and safety.

My suggestion is be specific about which gun, your carry preference, describe your physical characteristics, and do you prefer kydex or leather. As already suggested, be prepared for the expense and - PLEASE - don't scrimp on a quality gun belt.
 
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TarDevil said:
The problem with quality holsters is you can't buy them from brick & mortars, so ordering online, by default, is your only source. That means you can't try them on like a shirt from Belk, and this is an important element because body build will change comfort and functionality from one person to the next. Ask anyone here. We all have a drawer full of holsters. So will you, if your carry constantly and want the best in comfort and safety.

My suggestion is be specific about which gun, your carry preference, describe your physical characteristics, and do you prefer kydex or leather. As already suggested, be prepared for the expense and - PLEASE - don't scrimp on a quality gun belt.
Click to expand...
I am lucky that there are three different police supply/gun shops in my area that carry a pretty good line of holsters. There are also three other large gun shops that have a good inventory of holsters on hand. And then there is RM Holsters close by and Kee makes some good holsters.
rpenmanparker said:
Thanks Gunny, but how do you know? What criteria are you applying? A few respondents gave some detail and I appreciate that.
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Others that posted before me pretty much said it.
Holsters also wear out and need to be replaced.
You also need to select a holster for the type of carry . Do you need a level 1 or higher.
A good holster is not cheap. They will run from $60 to $175.
Duty holsters make great holsters for hunting like this one.
1BE08E75-B44F-4D46-ADE5-F5B1FC35AD12.jpeg 2223C62F-CAB8-43D4-BED0-8C7EBEFC5BCA.jpeg
 
GunnyUSMC said:
I am lucky that there are three different police supply/gun shops in my area that carry a pretty good line of holsters. There are also three other large gun shops that have a good inventory of holsters on hand. And then there is RM Holsters close by and Kee makes some good holsters.

Others that posted before me pretty much said it.
Holsters also wear out and need to be replaced.
You also need to select a holster for the type of carry . Do you need a level 1 or higher.
A good holster is not cheap. They will run from $60 to $175.
Duty holsters make great holsters for hunting like this one.
View attachment 822123 View attachment 822124
Click to expand...
Thanks Gunny. All good information.
 
A good holster (or holster/belt system):

Keeps the gun in the same place so you can develop muscle memory.
Retains the gun securely when you are moving around.
Allows you to reholster without having to use both hands.
Won’t snag the trigger and shoot you in the leg.
Keeps the trigger guard covered.
In the case of an IWB holster, it minimizes printing of the gun butt by keeping it close to the body.

Some of this stuff you can tell by looking a a holster. Some of it you have to carry it for a while. This is why so many of us have a drawer full of unused holsters.
 
rpenmanparker said:
Obviously quality.
Click to expand...
If quality means
  • it works well, it's effective, it doesn't fail
  • it's durable and long-lasting
Then who's to say it's not quality, without owning one and trying it out. I think they're an interesting and useful design, whether for minimalist use (as in a pocket or backpack or tucked in a waistband), or combined with some other non-retention-type holder.

They make them for J-frames too. I'll probably get one.
 
OWB: KT, Bravo, Ravens
IWB: Crossbreed
Race: DAA

Belts: Bigfoot Belts, Ares Tac instructors belt, DAA race belt.

Leather gets too floppy for me. Doesn't hold tight to my body for concealment.
 
rpenmanparker said:
You know. The ones that give folks confidence to carry a Glock which has no thumb safety or a condition 1 1911. I read about such thngs here all the time generally just describedas “quality holster”. Exactly what are the characteristics that impart the confidence?
Click to expand...
IMHO, there are three essential aspects that need to be judged to determine if a holster is a "quality" holster: Design, materials and workmanship.
  1. Design -- What constitutes a good design is dictated by end use. What a police officer needs in a duty holster is very different from what I need in a concealed carry holster.
    1. As a matter of personal preference, I holsters with "wings" out on either side of the gun, not a loop "stacked on top of" the gun. I think it provides for a slimmer profile and spreads the weight of the gun out better.
    2. For IWB hybrid -- I recently discovered the Stealth Gear Revolution. I carried for about 6-7 years using Theis holsters, then a Cross Breed Supertuck. Both of them were horsehide/kydex hybrids. Then I bought a SGR, and discovered the wonders of a ventilated backing.
    3. For OWB leather -- My favorite is the DeSantis Speed Scabbard. It ticks off all of the boxes that I need ticked in a holster, and doesn't break the bank. It has three belt slots, which allows the user to adjust the cant somewhat. The leather is nice and stiff, which allows the user to feel when the gun is firmly seated. Not as definite as the "click" of kydex, but a satisfying "shoomf," for lack of a better word.
  2. Materials & Workmanship -- You cannot make a quality much-of-anything by starting with substandard materials. The other side of that is that it doesn't matter what kind of materials you use, if you don't take some time to actually craft an item. I use hybrid IWBs and leather OWBs.
    1. For kydex:
      1. I'm not looking for the heaviest kydex around, but it has to be heavy enough to not collapse when I cinch my belt down over it.
      2. The molding has to be precise enough that my gun clicks into it when I holster my pistol.
      3. It needs to be free of sharp or jagged edges that may snag or abrade clothes.
    2. For leather:
      1. It needs to be stiff enough for me to reholster with one hand.
      2. The leather needs to be free from obvious flaws.
I would also agree with the following:
Elkins45 said:
A good holster (or holster/belt system):

Keeps the gun in the same place so you can develop muscle memory.
Retains the gun securely when you are moving around.
Allows you to reholster without having to use both hands.
Won’t snag the trigger and shoot you in the leg.
Keeps the trigger guard covered.
In the case of an IWB holster, it minimizes printing of the gun butt by keeping it close to the body.

Some of this stuff you can tell by looking a a holster. Some of it you have to carry it for a while. This is why so many of us have a drawer full of unused holsters.
Click to expand...
 
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Agree with a lot that has been said above. Some tests you can do:
1. With the firearm loaded but NOT with a round in the chamber (and with the safety on) put the firearm in the holster. Turn the holster upside down and shake it a little. If the firearm falls out, the holster fails. If the firearm moves within the holster make sure that the trigger does not become exposed (see below). (The holster shall retain the firearm regardless of what position you find yourself in.)
2. With the firearm loaded as above, put it in the holster. Attempt to find a way to pull the trigger (preferably without actually pulling the trigger - just see if you could). If you could pull the trigger, the holster fails. (The holster shall fully cover the trigger and prevent the trigger from being pulled while the firearm is holstered.)
3. With the firearm loaded as above, put on the holster as you plan to carry it and attempt to holster by touch alone. Then look to see if you have holstered correctly. If you cannot holster "blind" or if you cannot reliably holster properly (for example if you don't get it all the way in and the trigger is exposed), the holster fails. (The holster shall allow safe re-holstering.)
4. With the firearm loaded as above and wearing the holster as you plan to carry it, holster the firearm. Try to draw the firearm one handed with your primary hand (simulating an injured or pinned support arm). If you can't this isn't necessarily a failure, but I'd say such a holster isn't a "quality" one. This may, of course, take longer than your normal two-handed draw - that's fine. (The holster should allow one-handed draw in the event the support arm is injured or pinned.)

Don't give up if you don't find the right holster on the first try - I didn't, and from the sounds of it a lot of people don't. :)
 
Gridley said:
This may, of course, take longer than your normal two-handed draw - that's fine. (The holster should allow one-handed draw in the event the support arm is injured or pinned.)
Click to expand...
What is a "two handed draw"?
 

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Kydex with adjustable retention screws/o-rings. Kydex must be molded to clear sights well to avoid snagging, cover trigger guard fully, and provide protection from shirts getting inside the holster. I also, prefer having the "claw" (vedder holsters) which pushes the sidearm into the body by applying pressure to the inside of the belt which in turn forces the firearm into the body.


I used to carry in leather, but found Kydex to be superior in my mind for draw and reholstering, without having to worry about a collapsing holster mouth. Yes, I know that you can buy a leather holster that will sufficiently keep the mouth open, but it adds significant width and over time breaks down, causing issues with reholstering.
 
JTQ said:
What is a "two handed draw"?
Click to expand...

Example: many people who carry strong-side IWB have a shirt over the holster. The normal draw in this case includes having the support hand come across the body, grab the shirt, and pull it up and clear of the holster. The primary (gun) hand then draws the weapon. Hence, two hands. You can, however, still draw from such a setup (assuming a reasonable holster) by having your primary hand pull up the shirt and then draw. Slower, but it doesn't rely on the support hand.
There are, of course, CC setups that only use one hand to draw.
If you've got a holster that's too tight and a belt that's too loose... I've seen someone grab the holster with the support hand to hold it during the draw. Granted as much a defect of the belt as the holster, but it left an impression on me.
 
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