Uberti Cattleman screw backing out.

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Keith G

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91492E95-8562-4267-870E-45B050C6AEBA.jpeg This screw (hammer screw) slowly wants to back out after shooting for a while. I am no gunsmith by any stretch of the imagination, so question is can I simply pull this screw out, apply some blue loctite, and put the screw back in, or is it more involved than that? Talk to me like I’m a 5th grader please, because I really have never worked on a gun before. :)
 
Keith G said:
View attachment 822064 This screw (hammer screw) slowly wants to back out after shooting for a while. I am no gunsmith by any stretch of the imagination, so question is can I simply pull this screw out, apply some blue loctite, and put the screw back in, or is it more involved than that? Talk to me like I’m a 5th grader please, because I really have never worked on a gun before. :)
Click to expand...
ya try some loctite, not to much. they loosen from the rotating force of the hammer moving. how do u like the gun.
 
Try to only apply Loc tite to the threads in the frame after thoroughly degreasing it with alcohol or lacquer thinner. Use a very small amount. You don't want the Loctite to get inside the frame onto the hammer. Some guns are worse than others for shooting screws loose. Keep a few drivers in your range bag that fit each screw and check all of them every 50 rounds or so. If you don't stay on top of them one will manage to walk out and fall out of the gun.
 
Just go get some regular nail polish (my personal favorite) and put just a dab on the threads.
Nothing complex here, and the polish is its own solvent.
 
I second the advise for good and proper fitting screwdrivers, Keith - you have started to butcher those screws and if you continue to use ill fitting screwdrivers those screw heads will look like a real mess in a very short time.
 
The problem with nail polish is that it is aerobic - it needs oxygen to harden, while thread sealants are anaerobic. So sometimes nail polish won't harden fully except on the surface.
 
Thanks, guys. I guess my question is more of is there any trick to removing/replacing that screw, like:

Will anything else come apart when I take it out?

Will the hammer fall out and need to be in a certain position to put it back in?

Or is it as simple as pulling a screw out of a piece of wood and putting it back in?
 
Mizar said:
I second the advise for good and proper fitting screwdrivers, Keith - you have started to butcher those screws and if you continue to use ill fitting screwdrivers those screw heads will look like a real mess in a very short time.
Click to expand...

Thanks for noticing, Mizar! I have since ordered a proper gunsmith screwdriver kit, and also a full screw kit replacement in case one falls out and gets lost.
 
96F5F283-5041-4A4B-9A96-03535E125714.jpeg
troy fairweather said:
ya try some loctite, not to much. they loosen from the rotating force of the hammer moving. how do u like the gun.
Click to expand...

Troy, I like the gun quite a bit. It’s actually a Taylor’s & Co. Drifter, but a Cattleman for all intents and purposes. It’s 357, but I mostly shoot 38 handloads through it. 5.5” barrel.
 
Keith G said:
Will anything else come apart when I take it out?

Will the hammer fall out and need to be in a certain position to put it back in?

Or is it as simple as pulling a screw out of a piece of wood and putting it back in?
Click to expand...

Don't do it with the hammer still under spring pressure - you may damage the screw threads as you pull it out, not to mention that the hammer will dislocate in the frame and you will have trouble aligning it. Remove the grips, remove the mainspring and then work on it - that's the safest way.
 
Mizar said:
Don't do it with the hammer still under spring pressure - you may damage the screw threads as you pull it out, not to mention that the hammer will dislocate in the frame and you will have trouble aligning it. Remove the grips, remove the mainspring and then work on it - that's the safest way.
Click to expand...

Mizar, that’s what I was afraid of. I had the trigger screw fall out less than 100 rounds into shooting the gun. Most of the other screws had loosened as well. I sent it back and they loc tited and “thoroughly torqued” all the screws. And I don’t know if you know, but these screws are notoriously soft. So the thought of trying to start taking it apart freaks me out a little. Would hate to mess up a screw head badly and end up with a bigger problem. Although I would really like to refinish the grip...
 
Get a good set of screwdrivers and don't worry about it.
These actions/assembly/disassembly are very simple/straightforward/intuitive.

As far as grip refinishing, that takes just the pulling to two backstrap/top screws & one bottom grip screw/no disassembly beyond that.
Watch from 4:30 on . . .
 
Before you use any thread locker on that screw, polish the area where the hammer rotates on.
There has to some roughness causing the screw to back out.
 
After I lost the screw, and before I sent it back, I figured I’d refinish the grip. One of the backstrap screws wouldn’t budge. Took it to my LGS and they couldn’t get it to budge either. It was chipping away at the screw head. We gave up before it totally stripped out the head. Taylor’s & Co. obviously got it out, but I do worry about stripping a head to the point of not being able to remove the screw.

Full disclosure: I’m pretty competent mechanically. My wife and I built our cabin ourselves from the ground up. Everything from framing, finishing, plumbing and electrical. But for some reason messing with my guns freaks me out. I had some early bad experiences with it I guess.
 
If a screw "won't move," get a hammer (yes,hammer) and
tap sharply on the end of the screwdriver when maintaining
a steady twisting torque. The impact releases the thread
tension/grip momentarily and the torque can then move it.

It will come out, and you won't twist the head off.
 
Single action screws loosen up with firing, that's just the way it is.
You can apply Loctite, fingernail polish, or like my old time neighbor the gunsmith, a little raw linseed oil.
Ruger used Nylok screws on Old Models (pins now) and Colts came with teeny thin nylon washers.

You can get screwdriver sets ground for SAA but I don't know how uniform the copies are.

A screw that would not come out was probably soft metal swaged into the hole.
VTI gun parts sells hardened screw sets for Italian revolvers and lever actions.
 
Buggered screw heads can be restored by careful peening, filing, and fire-bluing. Heat with a propane torch until the desired color is achieved.
 
MEHavey said:
If a screw "won't move," get a hammer (yes,hammer) and
tap sharply on the end of the screwdriver when maintaining
a steady twisting torque. The impact releases the thread
tension/grip momentarily and the torque can then move it.

It will come out, and you won't twist the head off.
Click to expand...

Ok, but if I get into a problem with this, I’m calling you to come over and bail me out. ;)
 
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