638 or 642??

For a J-frame pocket carry revolver I want the 642/442. I do not want to ever be tempted to mess with a hammer in a conceal-carry or self-defense situation. I can think of no conceivable time in those situations where I would want to cock the hammer on the J-frame I carry and thus I do not want to be tempted. YMMV

I have owned the M638, 642 and M442 and they all feel the same to me.

I like the Bodyguard frame on the M638. But I really like the black frame on the M442. Buy the one you like most..

I have a 638 and a 442. 442 is little more compact. Can't see two cents difference in triggers. Have spring kits to put in each when I get ambitious. 638 stays by the bed,442 rides with me. I do prefer my Micro. BTW, I tried the Ergo Delta grip and hated it. Back to Pachmayrs.

All of the S&W J-frames have pretty much the same action. The individual manufacturing differences between guns make a bigger difference than the different hammers in the models 642, 637, and 638.

At one time, I was a fan of the 638. I thought it combined the best features of all J-frames by having a snag-free hammer while still having the option for single action use. However, now that I have owned a 638 for quite a while, I am less of a fan.

With the shrouded hammer on a 638, it is very difficult to de-cock the revolver safely. You just cannot get a very solid grip on the hammer, and you cannot put your off hand thumb in front of the hammer to stop it in case it should slip. If my hands were sweaty, or oily, and my heart was pumping, I would not want to have to de-cock a shrouded hammer.

Since I would not want to de-cock under pressure, my plan is to never cock the 638. I train with it almost entirely in double action. And of course, double action is the right way to use a snub nose revolver in almost all circumstances anyway.

Also, the shroud around the hammer can collect a surprising amount of dirt, especially if the gun is pocket carried. So overall, I think a double action only model 642 is a better fit for most people.

Overall, I am not opposed to the model 638, but I no longer think its advantages are useful for most people.

Have carried a 638 for the past 5 years. I bought a 442 a couple weeks ago. I cant tell any difference in triggers but due to frame shape I thought it was easier to pick up the rear sight notch on the 442

When this topic comes up, I have heard some people say that the "humpback" shape of the 638 allows them to grip the gun higher, allowing for more control.

I went the 642 route and have no personal experience with the 638, but that does make sense to me.


That being said, I have always wondered how easy/difficult it is to de-cock a 638. I share the same concern mentioned in post #5. Pretty big consideration if you ask me, since the SA capability is the main argument for the 638.

640

If I were to follow my heart I’d get the Bodyguard, there’s just something about that humpback look I really like. Being practical though I’d get the Centennial, no need for the single action, a bit smaller without the hump, no slot to fill with grime. Not everything has to be practical though I’d still buy the 638!

I have both and like both, no real difference to me although I do tend to carry the 642 more often.

Since the 442/642 is easy to “stage” while shooting slow DA shots, there really isn’t a whole lot of difference if the sole reason for choosing a 38/638 is the SA feature. My nickel Bodyguard shoots DA with about the same pull/feel as my 642 (but the 642 has a bit more felt recoil because it’s lighter)

Personally I’m partial to the 642 since less fuzz gets into the action and the draw is silky smooth compared to the humpback.

Stay safe!

I have a Model 642 and a Model 437 (exposed hammer J-frame) and I find the DA trigger pull to be virtually the same.

I prefer the 642 for pocket carry as stuff cannot get into the action as easily as with the 437.

Personal preference, I just do not like the hump back look of the Model 638 but don't let that sway you.

Several years ago, I decided to get better with the double action shooting and began practicing more. Anytime I was shooting a DA/SA revolver, I would shoot some double action. I've gotten comfortable with my ability shooting double action that I do not miss the single action capability of the Model 642.

Anyway, you can't go wrong with either.

An aside, both of these J-frames are cut to accept moon clips. The guns will also accept loose ammunition. I like the flexibility the moon clip capability provides.

Ugh, heard waaaaaay too many horror stories about cracked frames on these for me to ever consider another one-

Make mine a Centennial or a M60 plz.....

I have 4 J-Frames. The 36 is from 1981. It’s trigger seems just a tad heavier. I didn’t like the grooves on the trigger or the thin front sight so, it’s a safe queen. I like my 442’s the best and carry a pair of them most. The 37 is nice. I Bobbed the hammer for carry. Again the 442’s are my favorite. A 442 with the stock Uncle Mike’s Boot Grips is always in my pocket. And the 442 in my belt has Hogue Tamers. I switch grips around depending what guns I carry. The top gun is a Taurus 7 shot and only gets carried once in a while.

I carry a S&W 642 Airweight, its great for concealed carry, i dont have to worry about getting railroad tracks on my hand from the slide of a subcompact automatic. In the looks department i would rather have the 442 but humidity of being in my pocket made me pick stainless steal, having they cylinder cut for moon clips like the performance center 442 would also be nice.
Its a great gun, ive had no problems with it when useing standard pressure ammunition, when using +P ammunition the recoil can be a significant issue especially with heavy bullets. In experiments ive done at a local range, ive found that in rapid fire it takes me an average of 3.2 seconds to fire 5 rounds all in the 9 ring at 10yds when using 158GR standard pressure. To achieve the same accuracy with +P ammo i needed an average of 5.2 seconds. When using double taps, the second shot was 2 inches directly above the first shot with standard pressure, while using +P the second shot was 3 inches above and 2 inches to the right of the first shot.
The difference is much less when using a steel K Frame with a 4inch barrel, but the aluminum frame of the 642 just isn’t heavy enough for accuracy with high recoil ammo.
Like i said i am very pleased with my revolver but Looking back i think i would have gone with the 638 instead so I could have the option of single action while at the range but still have a reduced risk of the hammer getting caught on my clothswhen drawing from a holster.

My 642 does well. Here's some shots at 10 ft.

NIGHTLORD40K said:

Ugh, heard waaaaaay too many horror stories about cracked frames on these for me to ever consider another one-
View attachment 834890 View attachment 834891
Make mine a Centennial or a M60 plz.....

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Yukko! Those are fatals for sure. I wonder how many rounds when down those barrels before those cracks started showing?

I loved my 640 .38, but it got a tad heavy after 12 hours in my back pocket every shift so I went to a PPK attached to a holster worn on my vest under my right arm (I had a velcro panel sewn into my uniform shirt so I could pull it open to grab the PPK if it was needed...luckily it never was.). I ended up trading the 640 and 400 bucks for two model 19's, a 4" and a 2.5" about 25 years ago.

Stay safe!

Have always liked the Model 38 as I use to pocket carry it all the time on late night walks around the neighborhood with the dog. Picked up a stainless Model 649 when they first came out and then later bought a Model 638 for warmer weather use. The trigger pulls on both guns are pretty comparable and are pretty decent for your typical J frames.

@straightshooterjake makes good points. I can attest that woolyboogers get into the 642 action after a year of occasional pocket carry, and that open slot in the 638 would make things much worse.

Buy the 642, and practice. It's pretty accurate in competent hands.

Both are terrific little revolvers. Action is the same, barring action work of some sort. When you first get it, fill the cylinder with snap caps and do a couple thousand dry fires DA and SA too if you run with the 638. Then see where you are and if you might want a spring kit or a professional trigger job.

I chose the SW638. I also own an old Taurus 651SH2 titanium Protector which has the same configuration. Both have several thousand dry-fires under their belts, a spring kit from Wolff, and Crimson Trace minimalist hard laser grips. SW638 also had "The Lock" removed and replaced with "The Plug." Taurus 651SH2 with laser grip is my first go-to HD handgun(1). It is light, so does not dag down PJ pants pockets, has the laser for low light, and gives me an advantage vs someone who might try a disarm. SW638 is my "almost always" gun. If I can not manage a holster for whatever reason, in the pocket it goes, then into the truck console when visiting restricted areas.

I find the SA option useful and have hit targets at some extended ranges with its aid. Once you know your gun and load and execute the fundamentals, getting good hits on targets a ways out there is do-able. J-frames are much more than just "belly guns" if you give them a chance and a SA trigger allows one to wring out all the performance. So much so that if I am hunting and armed with a rifle, my sidearm is my SW638 stoked with hard cast wadcutters. No big bears nearby and that .38spl hard cast wadcutter penetrates like crazy.

Also, the flip side of "dust bunnies get IN easier" relative to 642, is "dust bunnies get OUT easier" relative to 642. A snort of compressed air or a hose down with solvent can traverse through the lock work. without having to remove the side plate.

If you are on the fence, but can spend a bit more, S&W produces some 642 or 442 J-frames that have a trigger job from the factory. That is worth something.

Good luck. Both are good choices, so no worries either way.

(1) 1911s, L-frames, and shotguns also at the ready.

What about a 340? 13ozs of 357/38.