2018 version Lee Pro 1000

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Prowler53

Prowler53

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Mar 9, 2019
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115
Location
Schuylkill County Pennsylvania
I decided to pick up this press at cabelas 2 weeks ago. I've been going thru about 300 rounds at the range every weekend, and I just could not keep up with reloading with the single stage. Wife and kid like to go along and shoot with me, so 300 or more rounds between us is not hard to do. I've read about some of the issues with the pro 1000 in the past, but I hoped the newer version would have been much better. After loading a few hundred rounds with the new press, I can tell you that it still needs some improvement.

1st problem - Primer feed sucks. Even with a full load of primers they do not want to feed onto the primer rod. I cleaned it, rubbed it out with #0000 steel wool and they still get stuck at the bottom. Every 2-3 rounds I will get one that does not feed and end up with my powder load all over the press and into the primer feed. I'm still tinkering with this to get it right, but it's a real pain in the #@$.

2nd Problem - Primer tray is junk. Slide it to the lock position to remove it from the feed and primers end up all over my bench. I've also had a couple primers that ended up flipping over somehow before they go down the chute. Such a simple thing but I think it could have been improved to work better. If I can get the first problem solved I'm going to see if I can modify another primer tray to work with it.

I just don't think you should have these problems with a brand new press. I know it's not a high end press, but such a simple thing to fix with the newer version and they blew it.

Improvements - I've read about the shell plate going out of sink on the older model, and needing to be tinkered with quite often. The new model does go out on occasion, but you can just turn it with your finger to lock it back into proper position. No need mess with the adjustment screw once it's set.

It came with a lee Auto disk powder dispenser which I like so far, but I just ordered the adjustable charge bar so I can get the exact powder throws I need.

I'm loading faster than my single stage now, but it could be faster if I can get the bugs worked out.
I just wanted to voice my opinion to others who may be thinking about buying this press.
 
Search up the lee pro 1000 tips and fixes thread which may help some. IMO the round plastic primer trays were vastly superior. You might find one on eBay.

I tried all the fixes for priming but recently I've been priming separately on the LCT and bypassing the Pro1K's priming system.
 
You get used to the priming system, and it gets better with use. Make sure the primer tray is shaken with the bar that rubs against the press for best results.

CCI and S&B primers feed the best. Anything that's not chrome plated may need extra attention.

Try and get an old round tray for the primers. The new plastic flippy ones arent as good.

Get the Auto drum. Works well.

I wish I had known the updated pro 1k was coming out before I got the Auto Breech Lock Pro. I would have been much happier with a 4th pro 1k (updated, at that!) than the ABLP.
 
I have both, I do like the Auto breech lock pro much better than my pro1000.
I got away from priming on any Lee press decades ago and I don't prime on the ABLP either, haven't even tried it yet. I'm too used to priming for Lee presses ahead of time.
I do like the four stations though and I really do like loading on the ABLP press for loading .357mag because I can use a seating and crimping dies separately, it makes loading lead bullets so much easier.

I really wish Lee could get their progressive priming systems under control, their presses make good ammo but the priming systems, GOOD GOD!
 
I bought an old 80s(?) Pro 1000 for $40, figured I'd take a chamve, its my first progressive. Primer system is definitely not it's strong suite but got it going pretty well now. I read somewhere to put a zip tie around the vertical that the little primer shaker pin rubs against to make the action more violent. Seems to have helped a bunch. Another thing, take your time and you'll begin to feel whether or not your pressing in a primer.
 
If it is the 2018 version, it should have a index pin for positive indexing and better primer feeding.
If your press doesn't have that pin, it's not the newest version.
On an out of time older version the shell plate would sweep over the primer on the seater pin as it moved up and tip it/flip it.
It is important that the press is mounted ridged and does not rock front/back when reaching the end of the lever stroke.
Here's a list of links to prior Pro 1000 threads:
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?search/36785619/&q=Pro+1000&o=date&c[title_only]=1&c[node]=15
I bought the older version cheap, when the new version was introduced, read most of those threads in that list as well as youtube vids, and got my Pro 1000 up and running in know time.
And there are helpful vids on the Lee site, as well as a trouble shooting guide in the manual.

Read my sig line...and I know you can feel if a primer has seated or not, and you should stop right there, before dumping powder into a case with no primer.
You will have to raise the shell plate a little to get the primer pin out of the primer pocket, so you can then remove that unprimed case and replace it with one that is.

Keep asking questions here and we will help if we can.
There is a lot of Pro 1000 users here with a wealth of knowledge.​
:D
 
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1KPerDay said:
What don't you like about the ABLP?
Click to expand...

It doesn't have the flexibility of the turret press or the ease of loading pistol ammo of the Pro 1k. I prime on press, and a turret priming system does not work well on a progressive for me. I much prefer the simplicity of the Pro 1k priming system.

It does what it is supposed to do, but it doesn't do anything I need.
 
There certainly is a lot of pro-1000 knowledge. Kind of like going to a jeep wrangler forum. There are so many common problems it's more shocking for someone to not have problems than to have them. I have managed to keep mine priming fine. I blow it out occasionally with compressed air and you absolutely have to keep enough to fill the chute. Mine doesn't have a closed position for the primer tray. I wish it did, it's a pain to get it put back in the chute without one. Also if you use a fluffy powder that is closer to the top of the case, it can sling out when the shell holder snaps into place. That will get in the primer ram and play hell on the priming system, but aside from that and letting the chute get low I can keep them priming fine. I use almost exclusively winchester primers simply because they are available at my walmart and I don't have to stock Magnum and standard in the smal size.
Now the Flipping the dang casing over before it gets to the shell holder.....I still haven't solved. Also the bullet holder is crap. Drops the bullet. I've boiled it like they say, no help. I'm thinking about plasti-dipping it. Can't hurt anything since I gave up on it anyway. It's a serviceable system though, and a boat load faster than single stage. I have two a large primer one and a small primer one. Caliber changes are easy if the primers don't change sizes.
 
crestoncowboy said:
There certainly is a lot of pro-1000 knowledge. Kind of like going to a jeep wrangler forum. There are so many common problems it's more shocking for someone to not have problems than to have them. I have managed to keep mine priming fine. I blow it out occasionally with compressed air and you absolutely have to keep enough to fill the chute. Mine doesn't have a closed position for the primer tray. I wish it did, it's a pain to get it put back in the chute without one. Also if you use a fluffy powder that is closer to the top of the case, it can sling out when the shell holder snaps into place. That will get in the primer ram and play hell on the priming system, but aside from that and letting the chute get low I can keep them priming fine. I use almost exclusively winchester primers simply because they are available at my walmart and I don't have to stock Magnum and standard in the smal size.
Now the Flipping the dang casing over before it gets to the shell holder.....I still haven't solved. Also the bullet holder is crap. Drops the bullet. I've boiled it like they say, no help. I'm thinking about plasti-dipping it. Can't hurt anything since I gave up on it anyway. It's a serviceable system though, and a boat load faster than single stage. I have two a large primer one and a small primer one. Caliber changes are easy if the primers don't change sizes.
Click to expand...
I made/use this to get the last few primers into the priming station:
index.php

You'll need to watch what's going on with it, don't let the tip go into/over the primer pin.
For the bullet feeder fingers, don't leave it back over a bullet when done reloading, it'll spread the fingers.
You can also hang a hair pin under the bullet feeder fingers that clears stuff when it's moving.
Think of a safety pin shaped spring that the ends touch that when spread apart has tension, spread it apart and put it over the fingers.
Or a test tube clamp:
https://www.amazon.com/Edu-Labs-Spr...be+type+clamp&qid=1554951468&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Or even a chip clip :thumbup:

Or, cut 2 lengths of spring wire the length of the finger, lay one along the outside of the a finger and wrap the finger and spring wire with a fine/soft wire or reinforced packaging tape to attach the spring wire to the finger.
Either of those mods will result in the fingers having a greater "pinch" force on the bullet.
:D
 
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Yeah. I don't leave it open. I use 180 gr fmj for 10 mm and 40 they seem to be too heavy. It does better with hard cast. I plasti-dipped the end of it last night after that post. I'll update on it once its cured. I'll try some of those if no luck.
I have 2 different primer trays, both are round. I just wish they had a closed position like the RCBS hand primer tray. I stick an old flat spring in the hole then once the tray is seated pull it out. Mine holds 200 primers so it's not too bad. I don't hate it though
 
Prowler53 said:
I decided to pick up this press at cabelas 2 weeks ago. I've been going thru about 300 rounds at the range every weekend, and I just could not keep up with reloading with the single stage. Wife and kid like to go along and shoot with me, so 300 or more rounds between us is not hard to do. I've read about some of the issues with the pro 1000 in the past, but I hoped the newer version would have been much better. After loading a few hundred rounds with the new press, I can tell you that it still needs some improvement..
Click to expand...

Prowler53 Welcome to the Pro1000 Family! It certainly is a Love/Hate Relationship. One either loves'm or they hate'm. Some can get them to perform while others never do. Many use them and never even consider priming on it. Which to me detracts from the whole purpose of a progressive press.

Yes priming on this press is the problematic aspect of the whole press but it can be overcome. But I will add this caveat, priming and most progressive presses is the biggest issue and not only with the Lee's. Research it.

A few things to keep in mind about this press and priming on it, listed by importance in my mind. #1, this press must be mounted to where it will not move, bend, flex, shake, bounce, wiggle, or twist. This is all because the way the primer is delivered into the case. Every other press deposits the primer into a cup which hold it in place and keeps it centered. The Pro1000 does not do this. the primer is balanced on the top of an open anvil Pin with nothing to hold it in position. Wiggle, jiggle, bump the press just a small amount and the primer can move from center and once that happens all hell breaks loose! It will not feed centered to the primer hole. Many will say the press has to move to help assist the primers to flow down the chute. FALSE! Yes the primer chute needs to wiggle, jiggle, move but the press needs to remain steady. Until folks understand this design and that these are required they will continue to struggle with this press.

Next the primer chute, remove it from the press and separate the two halves. Inspect closely the track that the primers ride down, remove any plastic mold flashing and then assure that both sides go back together tightly. I take mine and add a couple very small rubber bands like the ones kids use on their teeth braces. this keep the two halves together very well. Before putting the chute back in the press test it! Take 10 or so primers and drop them down the chute just as they would normally. If they do not flow all the way thru and drop out the bottom then there is still a problem.

Lastly the whole priming area must be kept clean from dirt and spilled powder. It doesn't take much to gum it up.

Now in my opinion and observation I do also like the old round primer trays much better than the new improved ones and believe it or not the primers themselves do make a difference in this press. I had been using S&B primers for a long time because Cabela's back then would practically give then away on sales. When they dried up I switched to Winchester primers because I have a pistol that refuses to fire CCI primers. Before the switch I kept track and loaded 3600 S&B primers with out a single failure in the press. As soon as I switched to the Winchester I immediately started having issues. Removed those Winchester from the press and loaded in some CCI and miraculously all the feeding issues disappeared.

So I hope you do not give up on this press too quickly. But if you get thoroughly disgusted with it may pay to look at the ABLP as it is a slight step down from the speed of the Pro1000 but uses a much friendlier priming system and all the other tools can be migrated from the Pro1000 to the ABLP. Also I may be interested in working a deal for just the Pro1000 press so you wouldn't lose to much.
 
kmw1954 said:
Prowler53 Welcome to the Pro1000 Family! It certainly is a Love/Hate Relationship. One either loves'm or they hate'm. Some can get them to perform while others never do. Many use them and never even consider priming on it. Which to me detracts from the whole purpose of a progressive press.

Yes priming on this press is the problematic aspect of the whole press but it can be overcome. But I will add this caveat, priming and most progressive presses is the biggest issue and not only with the Lee's. Research it.

A few things to keep in mind about this press and priming on it, listed by importance in my mind. #1, this press must be mounted to where it will not move, bend, flex, shake, bounce, wiggle, or twist. This is all because the way the primer is delivered into the case. Every other press deposits the primer into a cup which hold it in place and keeps it centered. The Pro1000 does not do this. the primer is balanced on the top of an open anvil Pin with nothing to hold it in position. Wiggle, jiggle, bump the press just a small amount and the primer can move from center and once that happens all hell breaks loose! It will not feed centered to the primer hole. Many will say the press has to move to help assist the primers to flow down the chute. FALSE! Yes the primer chute needs to wiggle, jiggle, move but the press needs to remain steady. Until folks understand this design and that these are required they will continue to struggle with this press.

Next the primer chute, remove it from the press and separate the two halves. Inspect closely the track that the primers ride down, remove any plastic mold flashing and then assure that both sides go back together tightly. I take mine and add a couple very small rubber bands like the ones kids use on their teeth braces. this keep the two halves together very well. Before putting the chute back in the press test it! Take 10 or so primers and drop them down the chute just as they would normally. If they do not flow all the way thru and drop out the bottom then there is still a problem.

Lastly the whole priming area must be kept clean from dirt and spilled powder. It doesn't take much to gum it up.

Now in my opinion and observation I do also like the old round primer trays much better than the new improved ones and believe it or not the primers themselves do make a difference in this press. I had been using S&B primers for a long time because Cabela's back then would practically give then away on sales. When they dried up I switched to Winchester primers because I have a pistol that refuses to fire CCI primers. Before the switch I kept track and loaded 3600 S&B primers with out a single failure in the press. As soon as I switched to the Winchester I immediately started having issues. Removed those Winchester from the press and loaded in some CCI and miraculously all the feeding issues disappeared.

So I hope you do not give up on this press too quickly. But if you get thoroughly disgusted with it may pay to look at the ABLP as it is a slight step down from the speed of the Pro1000 but uses a much friendlier priming system and all the other tools can be migrated from the Pro1000 to the ABLP. Also I may be interested in working a deal for just the Pro1000 press so you wouldn't lose to much.
Click to expand...


Exactly this!

In progressive Lee presses I have the older Pro 1000, newer Pro 1000 w/pin to locate shell plate, ABLP, LCT, and Loadmaster. All will reliably prime on press if you do your part. Especially the latest versions of these presses. Again, latest versions are good to go.

Much preferred the older primer trays. The new ones work, you just can’t get sloppy when handling them. They don’t spill primers by themselves but they’ll sure make it easy for you to screw up.
 
crestoncowboy said:
Now the Flipping the dang casing over before it gets to the shell holder.....I still haven't solved.
Click to expand...

Oh, 1 more thing, there's a "newer" case pusher available that might solve your "Flipping the dang cases over."
In stock at the moment but you can be found somewhere else:
https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-case-slider-and-riser
At the risk of reposting everything I've posted in the no bashing thread I will offer this fix too.:uhoh:
OK, 2 more things, I put small zip ties in the grooves that are supposed to shake the primer tray and that got me a more violent motion, for positive feeding.
:D
 
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Prowler53, not that this is a practice I completely agree with but I have a friend that uses his Pro1000 this way. What he does is puts a universal decapping die in the press, only die used, and he will then run it thru the shell feeder and decap a bunch,. He then takes that brass and washes it in a tumbler with the pins. Then he primes off the press. When he then loads he uses the press as normal only the brass is already primed and he has the primer chute and anvil pin removed. This works for him very well and that is fine too. I'm here to enjoy the hobby, not to tell anyone else how they should do it or what equipment they should use.
 
Yes, by using a Universal decapping die and the 4 tube case feeder with the Red collator he can de-prime 1k cases in no time.
 
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