screw on bottom of Lee powder hopper?

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labnoti

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The red hoppers have a phillips screw near the bottom that's upside down when the hopper is installed. What is the purpose of this screw? Is this used for the disc measure? I can't see how it's used for any purpose on any of the drum type measures. I'm curious why it's there.

I'm also curious if there is any clever way to secure the hopper to the measure. I remove it often enough to change powders that I'm not sure I want to affix it semi-permanently like with electrical tape. But I'd like it to be more secure than just set on top of the measure.

Since they're like $35 at the moment, I'm thinking of just buying a Lee Auto Drum for every powder I use (not that many) and fixing the hoppers with silicone. But the hoppers are kind of small too. Maybe there's a better one.
 
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The screw is to hold the red powder hopper onto the black adapter. You can change the friction for turning the hopper on and off by tightening or loosening the screw.

Sorry, I am referring to the Lee Perfect Powder Measure, which, after re-reading, does not appear to be the one you are referencing, but I believe the screw serves the same purpose. I haven't messed with my Auto-Drum yet.
 
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You can take the bottom black adapter off and use the screw to hold the hopper onto the base of the Pro Auto Disk powder measure. With the black adapter on it fits into the Pro Auto Drum powder measure.
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Dave
 
You're right. I guess I should have looked at it more carefully. It is just the edge of the screw head that holds the black adapter on and allows it to slide as it turns.

I was working on the powder measure for a few minutes and worked out that I do not need the Powder Measure Riser #90041 to use the Auto Drum on the ABLP. I must have bought that because I thought it was necessary but it looks to be so only for the LCT which I don't have anymore.

I also found that if I use the large powder drum, the threads are finer than on the small drum allowing a finer adjustment. I can use the provided plug to lower the minimum volume in the large drum so it's useable for pistol and intermediate rifle charge volumes.
 
Is there a way I can adjust the Auto Drum and the Powder Thru Expanding Die so that I get a full throw without belling the case mouth too much? If I back the die out enough that it just barely flares the case mouth, it won't rotate the drum far enough. I don't really have a problem with cracked mouths after many reloadings, but I hate the way the expander snags and shakes the press. Maybe I can adjust the swivel adapter?

If I can't figure out an adjustment, I think I'm going to do the size flare I like when I decap and resize prior to tumbling. Then I'll charge already flared handgun cases with the short charging die that I use for rifle cases.
 
You're kidding then. With the slop in the turret, it has to shake the powder measure. I don't have a LCT anymore, but I can see it on this video at 5:23

Notice he's demonstrating how much smoother it is when not expanding and charging on the same stroke -- but it still shakes the measure. If he was expanding and charging at the same time, it would shake even more.

On the ABLP, the press is just flexible because it's wimpy and it vibrates when the flared case mouth is pulled back through the opening of the expander die. This video shows the Auto Drum shaking on the ABLP at 4:09 Notice the use of the #90041 riser in both videos which I found to be unnecessary and which exaggerates the shaking.

So my solution is to resize and flare in one go-round, then after the cases are cleaned and primed, I will charge, seat and crimp.
 
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On the ABLP, the press is just flexible because it's wimpy and it vibrates when the flared case mouth is pulled back through the opening of the expander die. Notice the use of the #90041 riser which I found to be unnecessary and which exaggerates the shaking.
The snap of the case/powder measure when the expander is pulled out of the case is by design, sort of like a powder measure "knocker".
That snap will be greatly reduced if you polish the expander plug to a mirror finish.
That and auto wash/wax added to the last rinse after wet tumbling will pre-lube the case "neck" for easier expanding.
works for me,
:D
 
A knocker? I see your point but disagree because it won't work for rifle cases that don't use an expander. I'm sure lube will smooth the flaring and the backing out of the flared case, but since the press is not solid enough that it won't shake, I think I'll go with flaring after I decap and resize when there's no powder on the press.
 
A knocker? I see your point but disagree because it won't work for rifle cases that don't use an expander. I'm sure lube will smooth the flaring and the backing out of the flared case, but since the press is not solid enough that it won't shake, I think I'll go with flaring after I decap and resize when there's no powder on the press.
OH, OK
never mind,
:D
 
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