What's your favorite Ruger revolver?

  • Ruger Old Blackhawk

    Votes: 9 11.8%
  • Ruger Old Vaquero

    Votes: 8 10.5%
  • Ruger New Vaquero

    Votes: 4 5.3%
  • Ruger Old Army

    Votes: 2 2.6%
  • Ruger SS

    Votes: 6 7.9%
  • Ruger Redhawk

    Votes: 8 10.5%
  • Ruger GP100

    Votes: 21 27.6%
  • Ruger New Blackhawk

    Votes: 18 23.7%

  • Total voters
    76
  • Poll closed .
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I sent Ruger a email a few days ago but they still haven't gotten back with me which makes me wonder if they're ever going to respond (I know it takes three business days but its' been more than that)
My Ruger Vaquero broke last week, I was cocking then then the hammer wouldn't go all the way back, as if something was blocking the way. Felt like something was broken in there. Also the transfer bar was actually hugging against the frame, and was pushing right up against the firing pin, so it wouldn't go all the up either.
I took it completely apart, did a cleaning on It and checked the parts. There was a rod that is broken that come out of the gun, but I don't know if this is anything important nor do I even know where it would even go, If it's even part of the gun at all.
So I put the gun back together (which was a pain, I cut myself trying to compress the trigger and bolt spring down so I can slide the pin through both of them.) But this time, the cylinder stop/bolt won't even go down when I cock the hammer. That day I sent Ruger the email.
Just yesterday I took it apart again, then put it back together but same problem.
Will Ruger fix this? Also to mention, my grips are also broke. A big chip just came off the grips, I tried fixing it but my repairs won't hold. Will they replace this too?

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Yeah good point. I figured it was due to the fourth as well. Do you know the address I should send the revolver too? I'll put the package together in this time.
 
What's the story with the big gouge above the ejector rod hole? As well as the split and gouge/weld mark on the top strap above the ejector rod gouge.

As well as the gouge on the other side in front of the cylinder?

With that damage it will be interesting to see what Ruger says. If this damage occurred in taking it apart it would have been prudent for Ruger to deal with it without the damage for better luck with their customer service. If you needed to get live rounds out of the cylinder and it was locked up, it should've taken a trip to a local gunsmith before damaging the firearm. Right now I'm assuming the damage just occurred, if it's old damage that's a different story, but it will be something that Ruger has to take into account when dealing with this firearm on a warranty basis, I would think.
 
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What's the story with the big gouge above the ejector rod hole? As well as the split and gouge/weld mark on the top strap above the ejector rod gouge.

As well as the gouge on the other side in front of the cylinder?

With that damage it will be interesting to see what Ruger says. If this damage occurred in taking it apart it would have been prudent for Ruger to deal with it without the damage for better luck with their customer service. If you needed to get live rounds out of the cylinder and it was locked up, it should've taken a trip to a local gunsmith before damaging the firearm. Right now I'm assuming the damage just occurred, if it's old damage that's a different story, but it will be something that Ruger has to take into account when dealing with this firearm on a warranty basis, I would think.

I didn't mention the damage you pointed out because yes, that is old damage that occurred way over a year ago. So to me it's just a normal part of my gun.
I've shot well over a thousand rounds in this revolver since I've owned it the last two years. The situation that happened last week happened not when I was shooting it, but simply when I tried to cock the gun when I was looking at it. So don't know if a part randomly broke or what the problem is.
EDIT: I see you assume that damage happened because there were live rounds in the cylinder and I needed to remove those by force. The answer would be no, the cylinder stop goes down when I open the loading gate. The cylinder stop just won't go down with the hammer, so thus when the loading gate is closed, the gun won't cycle.
 
I didn't mention the damage you pointed out because yes, that is old damage that occurred way over a year ago. So to me it's just a normal part of my gun.
I've shot well over a thousand rounds in this revolver since I've owned it the last two years. The situation that happened last week happened not when I was shooting it, but simply when I tried to cock the gun when I was looking at it. So don't know if a part randomly broke or what the problem is.
EDIT: I see you assume that damage happened because there were live rounds in the cylinder and I needed to remove those by force. The answer would be no, the cylinder stop goes down when I open the loading gate. The cylinder stop just won't go down with the hammer, so thus when the loading gate is closed, the gun won't cycle.

I see, I didn't want to assume, but it looked as if it was damage trying to rectify the problem. Just be honest with Ruger (I'm not implying you wouldn't) about what your recent issue is in regards to the broken part, and likely they will fix it, their customer service has the reputation they have for a reason.
 
Yeah good point. I figured it was due to the fourth as well. Do you know the address I should send the revolver too? I'll put the package together in this time.

Best thing is to call Ruger Customer Service. When you talk to them they will provide you with a RTV (Return To Vendor) number and an address to send it to with instructions of what information to include.
 
I've dealt with their customer service a couple of times, both experiences were good. Call them (no need to wait for an e-mail response), and they'll e-mail you a shipping label. All you need to do is box up your revolver, place the shipping label on it and drop it off.
 
Heir Kommt Die Sonne

A buddy of mine bought a used Vaquero in .44 Magnum and found that the barrel was improperly installed. Sent it back to Ruger and they made up an entirely new barrel as they no longer had the .44 Magnum barrel in stock. Polished up the whole gun so the new barrel would match the rest of the gun. No charge for anything, including shipping both ways.
 
Just call them. They have good customer support and an entire facility in AZ that does nothing but customer service. Just be aware that they will remove any non original parts and replace them with Ruger original parts. Trigger groups are fair game.

Ruger and Sig are the best in the business regarding customer support.
 
There was a rod that is broken that come out of the gun, but I don't know if this is anything important nor do I even know where it would even go, If it's even part of the gun at all.

There are no extra unimportant parts in your gun. It sounds like the center pin in the center of the base pin that pushes the transfer bar back broke and came out. Thats why the transfer bar was hitting on the firing pin. Can you take a picture of your base pin so I can see if the center pin is still there?
 
It sounds like the center pin in the center of the base pin that pushes the transfer bar back broke and came out. Thats why the transfer bar was hitting on the firing pin.
And if the transfer bar was hitting on the firing pin, that's why "the hammer wouldn't go all the way back."
But yes, Ruger will fix it. I'd bet on it.;)
 
just a story about ruger service.

a few years ago I purchased a old army stainless at a local police auction. I knew it was damaged. it actually looked like someone had used it to pistol whip a horse to death.

so off to ruger it went. they politely informed me that they did not have the parts to fix it. they then informed me I was welcome to any handgun in current production that they made, at no charge.

I chose a nice Blackhawk in 45colt/45acp.
 
It could also be that the rod from the hammer is broken, it is responsible for picking up the bolt stop. This is a spring loaded plunger type widget that lives on the side of the hammer. If it's broken there will be no bolt pickup and the revolver will not revolve. Send it to Ruger.
 
It could also be that the rod from the hammer is broken, it is responsible for picking up the bolt stop. This is a spring loaded plunger type widget that lives on the side of the hammer. If it's broken there will be no bolt pickup and the revolver will not revolve. Send it to Ruger.
I think that's it.
Transfer bar seems fine when the base pin is in the gun, the only thing preventing it from spinning is the bolt.
 
just a story about ruger service.

a few years ago I purchased a old army stainless at a local police auction. I knew it was damaged. it actually looked like someone had used it to pistol whip a horse to death.

so off to ruger it went. they politely informed me that they did not have the parts to fix it. they then informed me I was welcome to any handgun in current production that they made, at no charge.

I chose a nice Blackhawk in 45colt/45acp.
WOW!
 
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