how to liquify FrogLube paste ?

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dekibg

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I like the product, but I find it highly impractical to use it in current solid form - not only you are supposed to heat up gun parts for the first application, but later you have to heat up the paste, and apply it with small paint brush to cover all internals. Since I hate to waste things, is there a way that I could just dissolve it and use it in a small spray bottle?
What liquid should I use: alcohol, acetone, maybe even gasoline?
Thanks a lot !
 
It's coconut oil. Start your research there. I would not advise using gasoline or acetone. Both are highly flammable and both will play hell with plastic spray bottles.
 
Easy. Fill a silver teaspoon with a dollop of cocon. . . I mean FrogLube, warm it over a burning $20 bill, and then carefully apply it to your gun. :neener:

Alternately, use the $20 to buy a quart of almost any oil (CLP, motor oil, whatever, etc) and a needle applicator, and you'll be set for life.

The FrogLube works suspiciously well for greasing the pan when making brownies.
 
The amount of gun specialty oils that are food grade is astounding. Isn't one of them basically vegetable oil, too?

I'm a CLP man, hoppes & CLP get it done.
 
Geez, is this a “ Froglube Hate Club” sub forum?
:oops:
When I find out how to make a liquid out of it, I am sure I can use my wife’s KitchenAid and it’s paddle:
Made out of coconut oil, smells like mint already - she can make a batch of cookie dough right after it - does not even have to scape that mixer bowl real good
 
I played the frog lube game once. It was ridiculously expensive. It gummed up my gun and after the super "superior ionic bonding" of the paste to the gun with a hair dryer. My gun was completely dry after 4 mags. Garbaggio. Try slip, CLP or Mpro.
 
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To the OP try heat. Or keep a tube in your pocket for an hour. Don't mix it with anything IMO.

And I have no prob with food grade lubes if they work. SFL-0 is supposed to be safe for lubing kitchen equipment etc and it works fine as a thin grease. Ballistol is mineral oil primarily and its supposedly non toxic. Works well as a cleaner and light oil, and is my go to on BP firearms.
 
I like the product, but I find it highly impractical to use it in current solid form - not only you are supposed to heat up gun parts for the first application, but later you have to heat up the paste, and apply it with small paint brush to cover all internals. Since I hate to waste things, is there a way that I could just dissolve it and use it in a small spray bottle?
What liquid should I use: alcohol, acetone, maybe even gasoline?
Thanks a lot !

I’ve heard way too many stories, some of them I can confirm, where froglube went rancid and gunky (yeah, its not a word) on guns stored for long periods. Some folks swear by it, but I’d avoid it, Bro.

If you really want to use it, put some in a small plastic squeeze bottle and whenever you want to use some, set it in the sun, a cup of hot water, or a warm place for a little while, and it will liquify.
 
Geez, is this a “ Froglube Hate Club” sub forum?
:oops:
When I find out how to make a liquid out of it, I am sure I can use my wife’s KitchenAid and it’s paddle:
Made out of coconut oil, smells like mint already - she can make a batch of cookie dough right after it - does not even have to scape that mixer bowl real good

I don’t feel much hate...the stuff has proven to be unreliable at best and really doesn’t live up to the hype it used to put out.

You want hate? Go out to one of the handgun threads and espouse your undying love and affection for all things Glock! You”ll feel some real hate, Brother!

LOL!
 
Geez, is this a “Froglube Hate Club” sub forum?

FrogLube could be excused for marketing distilled coconut oil as lube. . . snakeoil lubes have a long and illustrious history in the industry. No news there.

What they can not be excused for is suing the blogger who published the lab reports comparing their brand of snakeoil to coconut oil.

Yes, I hate them, because I hate the sort of criminal enterprise that resorts to malicious lawsuits to conceal the truth. They are abusing the legal system, and harming everyone with an interest in that legal system continuing to function.
 
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I tried FL and didnt have good luck with it. Guns that sat just a short while, were gummed up so bad they wouldnt cycle, or the cylinders in revolvers that were very sluggish. Had a couple of things rust a bit too.

Its WAY over priced too, even if it were to work.
 
OP: Wish I could help, but can not. This is why I chose to use only Seal One (Frog derivative) in all of my handguns for a while.

Many guys seem to forget, or choose to ignore the direction to First wipe away any previous Petroleum-Based cleaner with alcohol, whether using Frog or Seal. It takes only about 10 minutes. Were "Gummed Up" guns first wiped very well with denatured alcohol-as directed?

Seal One has worked perfectly in the Sig P6, P228, CZ PCR, .380 Makarov for several months, now used in the 'new' Spanish Star BM (9).

This gel version is excellent.

"Gumming Up?" Absolutely No sign of this using Seal.
 
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FrogLube could be excused for marketing distilled coconut oil as lube. . . snakeoil lubes have a long and illustrious history in the industry. No news there.

What they can not be excused for is suing the blogger who published the lab reports comparing their brand of snakeoil to coconut oil.

Yes, I hate them, because I hate the sort of criminal enterprise that resorts to malicious lawsuits to conceal the truth. They are abusing the legal system, and harming everyone with an interest in that legal system continuing to function.
I read the summary of the court proceedings and can you clarify what motion to dismiss in part means? Was the case settled or thrown out or what was the result?
 
The amount of gun specialty oils that are food grade is astounding. Isn't one of them basically vegetable oil, too?

I'm a CLP man, hoppes & CLP get it done.

That would be Fireclean

To the OP try heat. Or keep a tube in your pocket for an hour. Don't mix it with anything IMO.

And I have no prob with food grade lubes if they work. SFL-0 is supposed to be safe for lubing kitchen equipment etc and it works fine as a thin grease. Ballistol is mineral oil primarily and its supposedly non toxic. Works well as a cleaner and light oil, and is my go to on BP firearms.

SFL-0 is merely a grade of grease. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NLGI_consistency_number You try lubing your kitchen equipment with most 0 greases and you're not going to like the taste.

The old LSA was a 00 grade grease.
 
Get it thin enough to spray or squirt?
No
As said, warm it for even application.

I have a small free sample which works quite well when applied to the rails of a target pistol today to be shot tomorrow.
On a tackytickle tire one operator ottomattick?
Not mine.
 
OP: Wish I could help, but can not. This is why I chose to use only Seal One (Frog derivative) in all of my handguns for a while.

Many guys seem to forget, or choose to ignore the direction to First wipe away any previous Petroleum-Based cleaner with alcohol, whether using Frog or Seal. It takes only about 10 minutes. Were "Gummed Up" guns first wiped very well with denatured alcohol-as directed?

Seal One has worked perfectly in the Sig P6, P228, CZ PCR, .380 Makarov for several months, now used in the 'new' Spanish Star BM (9).

This gel version is excellent.

"Gumming Up?" Absolutely No sign of this using Seal.
I started using FL when it first came out. Thats when the instructions (which changed a couple of times while I was using it) told you to heat the gun, or leave it sit in the sun before applying it.

I did degrease the gun completely before initially using it too, and followed their directions to a "T".

At first, I was using it on the Glock I shoot weekly. And often more than once a week. I clean what I shoot after each use, and the gun was being cleaned and lubed exclusively with FL, and it seemed to be working fine as a lube. As a cleaner, it was OK, for getting the fouling out, but did nothing for removing or dealing with copper.

They later came out with another product that was supposed to do that, but that was just more snake oil, and did absolutley nothing to remove copper. It actually looked like water too.

I never "over used" it either, and like anything else I use for a lube, it looks like the surface is "shiney", maybe barely "wet", and its not slopped on or flying off when you shoot them.

Since I was using FL pretty regular at the time, I started to use it on other things as well. Thats when the troubles started. As long as youre cleaning and appling it a once or twice a week, it seemed to work OK. Leave what you cleaned with it sit a little while, and it was a whole different story.

I first started noticing things getting really sluggish with my revolvers. Cylinders that used to spin freely, with barely a nudge, would barely make a full revolution with a good spin.

I then took a P38 that I had cleaned with it a month or two earlier out to shoot, and on the first round, the gun didnt/wouldnt cycle, and I had to do it by hand. I had to do that with the first mag, and into the second mag, before it started to heat up and the FL went back into solution and started acting like a lube again.

Things like the above seemed to be more of an issue with things like the P38, 1911's, anything with more "rail" contact. The Glocks I used it on, werent as bad, but still noticibly more sluggish.

It was around that time, I noticed that the instructuons had changed (no more heating the gun), and the formula seemed to have changed too. It was becoming more watery. The early bottles were more like a cream when you squeezed it out of the bottle, now it was more like a liquid. It also got progressivey more watery as time went on too.

I also notiecd that I was getting some light rust on a couple of blued guns that Id used it on and hadn't shot in about a month.

It was about then, and after about 10-12 months of using it, that Id had enough and stopped using it.

From there I went back to cleaning with Hoppes, and using Mobil 1 30w oil as a lube. As soon as I did, the guns cleaned up faster, and any sluggishness instantly went away.

Compared to most other things Ive ever used, it was the most expensive cleaning product Ive ever used. Something like $14 for a little bottle, or $25 (I think) for the "kit", which included a can of paste, and a rag.

The paste lasted pretty long, mainly becuse I didnt really use it for anything. The bottles, I was going through one to two a month. Didnt take too long to figure out that this was getting pretty expensive pretty quick.

I go through a 32 oz bottle of Hoppes every three months or so. That costs me about what one little bottle of FL cost me.

The Mobil 1, cost me around $7 for a quart, and Im still using the same one (its still over half full too) I bought when I quit FL, and thats been three or four years now. So do the math.
 
I started using FL when it first came out. Thats when the instructions (which changed a couple of times while I was using it) told you to heat the gun, or leave it sit in the sun before applying it.

I did degrease the gun completely before initially using it too, and followed their directions to a "T".

At first, I was using it on the Glock I shoot weekly. And often more than once a week. I clean what I shoot after each use, and the gun was being cleaned and lubed exclusively with FL, and it seemed to be working fine as a lube. As a cleaner, it was OK, for getting the fouling out, but did nothing for removing or dealing with copper.

They later came out with another product that was supposed to do that, but that was just more snake oil, and did absolutley nothing to remove copper. It actually looked like water too.

I never "over used" it either, and like anything else I use for a lube, it looks like the surface is "shiney", maybe barely "wet", and its not slopped on or flying off when you shoot them.

Since I was using FL pretty regular at the time, I started to use it on other things as well. Thats when the troubles started. As long as youre cleaning and appling it a once or twice a week, it seemed to work OK. Leave what you cleaned with it sit a little while, and it was a whole different story.

I first started noticing things getting really sluggish with my revolvers. Cylinders that used to spin freely, with barely a nudge, would barely make a full revolution with a good spin.

I then took a P38 that I had cleaned with it a month or two earlier out to shoot, and on the first round, the gun didnt/wouldnt cycle, and I had to do it by hand. I had to do that with the first mag, and into the second mag, before it started to heat up and the FL went back into solution and started acting like a lube again.

Things like the above seemed to be more of an issue with things like the P38, 1911's, anything with more "rail" contact. The Glocks I used it on, werent as bad, but still noticibly more sluggish.

It was around that time, I noticed that the instructuons had changed (no more heating the gun), and the formula seemed to have changed too. It was becoming more watery. The early bottles were more like a cream when you squeezed it out of the bottle, now it was more like a liquid. It also got progressivey more watery as time went on too.

I also notiecd that I was getting some light rust on a couple of blued guns that Id used it on and hadn't shot in about a month.

It was about then, and after about 10-12 months of using it, that Id had enough and stopped using it.

From there I went back to cleaning with Hoppes, and using Mobil 1 30w oil as a lube. As soon as I did, the guns cleaned up faster, and any sluggishness instantly went away.

Compared to most other things Ive ever used, it was the most expensive cleaning product Ive ever used. Something like $14 for a little bottle, or $25 (I think) for the "kit", which included a can of paste, and a rag.

The paste lasted pretty long, mainly becuse I didnt really use it for anything. The bottles, I was going through one to two a month. Didnt take too long to figure out that this was getting pretty expensive pretty quick.

I go through a 32 oz bottle of Hoppes every three months or so. That costs me about what one little bottle of FL cost me.

The Mobil 1, cost me around $7 for a quart, and Im still using the same one (its still over half full too) I bought when I quit FL, and thats been three or four years now. So do the math.
I'm surprised you lasted 10-12 months dealing with it. I too, like to give things a chance and I followed the directions to a T as well but after one outing with it I said, and I think I even said it out loud. "Wow, this crap sucks"....
 
AK103K:
That must have been a huge disappointment and frustration. What a joke when such bizarre application steps are needed. I would have immed. quit using it--no matter what was invested in the first bottle.

Various reports describe their changes when they created Seal One. Whatever they did, it works quite well as a CLP overall function. My handguns sometimes are cleaned up to a maximum 100-200 rds. intervals.
You guys/gals have probably seen the very detailed comparison test via Google. They tested the various C/L/P functions of about twenty products and even used a friction device for lubricity evaluations.
 
I read the summary of the court proceedings and can you clarify what motion to dismiss in part means?
IANAL, but briefly: FireClean sued Andrew in Virginia. Andrew doesn't have a nexus in Virginia; and FireClean's claims of nexus were tossed. With no nexus, the suit was dismissed by a Virginia judge because Virginia lacks jurisdiction over Andrew.

More here.
 
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