Steel reloading bench?
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Blue68f100
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Not a problem. But like with any bench used for reloading it needs to be solid with no flex. So you may need to but a base under the SS if it's thin.
forty_caliber
Member
Are we talking sheetmetal or plate? A thin sheet applied over another surface would be more likely to flex and have a small possibility of picking up a static charge while a rigid plate would be less likely to do so.
Either way you could always run a ground wire to eliminate the possibility.
.40
Either way you could always run a ground wire to eliminate the possibility.
.40
I have not seen this top yet, but it sounds like its a large stainless steel work bench or like butcher table. I told him it needs to be reinforced and by the look of all the 2x6 he has I think it will be a tank.
jmorris
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The last one I built was out of steel. 1/8” steel top and bottom shelf, a 3/4” box tube 5 inch truss around the perimeter and cross braces drilled and tapped for sub plates where the presses mount. Quad boxes underneath that are controlled by a switch on the front, one switch kills all power to the bench, the other controls the dental air compressor. Bench is grounded to the wall outlet.
All of my previous reloading benches were wood and none as ridged.
All of my previous reloading benches were wood and none as ridged.
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Most folks I know who have a stainless steel top to their bench are using sheet stainless over a 3/4" plywood top. If static electricity is a concern, all you have to do is ground the top.
I like stainless because it has a cleaner industrial look compared to wood...either plain, stained, or painted...and it is easier to clean up; like tile floors compared to carpeting. The only concern I had is that you really need to know where you'll want tools mounted before you install the top, as you'll likely be drilling holes in it before installing
berettaprofessor
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jmorris, wanna explain that pink press to the left?
splattergun
Member
I don't think the SS table top would be the static issue, but all the other things. like a plastic seat cover, carpet, polyester shoes etc might be.
Look at it this way... Genuine black powder is much more static sensitive than smokeless powder, so we don't use plastic powder funnels for BP. We use brass or stainless steel funnels and powder dispensers. And what about all the other SS or carbon steel parts in our reloading tools? A SS table top should be about the least of your worries with smokeless propellant.
Look at it this way... Genuine black powder is much more static sensitive than smokeless powder, so we don't use plastic powder funnels for BP. We use brass or stainless steel funnels and powder dispensers. And what about all the other SS or carbon steel parts in our reloading tools? A SS table top should be about the least of your worries with smokeless propellant.
denton
Member
Contrary to what you might think, directly grounding a stainless steel table top is an invitation to greater static electricity problems. The solid ground connection definitely holds the table top at ground potential, zero volts. So if you walk across a carpet and touch it, and you're floating at 5 KV, when you touch 0 volts with no resistance to ground, ZAP!
Good static control practice says that you ground the table top through a 1 megohm resistor. That allows charge to bleed off slowly and harmlessly.
Powder containers are black because they are made with carbon, so that any charge leaks off slowly.
Good static control practice says that you ground the table top through a 1 megohm resistor. That allows charge to bleed off slowly and harmlessly.
Powder containers are black because they are made with carbon, so that any charge leaks off slowly.
Now you tell me!!!
I switched to loose black powder substitute and use a plastic funnel.
splattergun
Member
I wouldn't. bother grounding it, that is.
stillquietvoice
Contributing Member
I worked in electronics industry for years. Static was always a concern with integrated circuits. We not only grounded the table tops bit also ourselves. Special shoes, rubber mats, floors and wrist ground straps. Just a thought.
That’s it, back to factory ammo! This is getting too high tech and dangerous.
stillquietvoice
Contributing Member
A simple ground option is what Denton said a 1 Meg resistor in ground cable. A leg type terminal end attached to steel table top via screw or bolt. 12 gauge wire with a resistor in between table top and electric box.
I was just providing options and opportunities for research. Sorry for the confusion.
I was just providing options and opportunities for research. Sorry for the confusion.
jmorris
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The orange one is an old Lyman turret, the red ones are 366’s the purple one is a casepro.
So, I get the screw to the bench part but where do we attach the ground wire that's not touching the bench?
lightman
Member
You could do a couple of things. If you can get a wire run to the outside of the house you could drive a ground rod or even connect it to an existing ground. You could also buy an end for an extension cord and use a wire thats only connected to the ground, and plug it into a receptacle. I would op for the ground rod personally.
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denton
Member
You can get 1 megohm resistors at Amazon or eBay.
Splattergun does make a valid point: You may not want to ground the table top. But if you do....
Get a spade lug or ring lug, and piece of stranded wire. Use the spade lug to attach the wire to an inobtrusive part of the metal table top. Connect the other end of the wire to a 1 megohm resistor, and the free end of the resistor to a ground, such as a cold water pipe or the ground line of your electrical supply system. A separate ground rod is definitely overkill. This is not a system for providing a low resistance path to ground for electrical circuit safety. It's just there to harmlessly drain off electrostatic charge, which is a much simpler proposition.
Splattergun does make a valid point: You may not want to ground the table top. But if you do....
Get a spade lug or ring lug, and piece of stranded wire. Use the spade lug to attach the wire to an inobtrusive part of the metal table top. Connect the other end of the wire to a 1 megohm resistor, and the free end of the resistor to a ground, such as a cold water pipe or the ground line of your electrical supply system. A separate ground rod is definitely overkill. This is not a system for providing a low resistance path to ground for electrical circuit safety. It's just there to harmlessly drain off electrostatic charge, which is a much simpler proposition.
GW Staar
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I live in dry, very dry New Mexico.....my top is plastic Formica over wood. My floor is padded plastic foam tiles from Home depot. (keeps my garage/reloading room 10 degrees warmer in winter) I load on a drafting stool, or standing. The only static I've had to deal with is inside of the plastic powder measure hopper. A used dryer sheet stops that cold.
If I had a steel top, I doubt it would change a thing. That would be a pretty good ground in an of itself.....but during a big electric storm....you could always fasten a #12 copper wire to it and stuff the other end into the ground of a grounded electrical outlet. (That'd be the center round hole)
Here we use evaporative coolers in the hot 3 months of summer.....the rest of the year is dry......I wouldn't like a nylon carpet under my tools....or even in my house...painful at times. snap crackle pop! but I haven't had that garbage in my home for many years.
If I had a steel top, I doubt it would change a thing. That would be a pretty good ground in an of itself.....but during a big electric storm....you could always fasten a #12 copper wire to it and stuff the other end into the ground of a grounded electrical outlet. (That'd be the center round hole)
Here we use evaporative coolers in the hot 3 months of summer.....the rest of the year is dry......I wouldn't like a nylon carpet under my tools....or even in my house...painful at times.
snap crackle pop! but I haven't had that garbage in my home for many years.
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Well the table top has arrived. I believe it is metal over wood but I will have to take another look. I have no idea how he is going to mount the press though because the top has a square cut in the corner and he has the press mounted on the corner 2x6.
The frame is 2x6 and the top is metal. Its basically a metal workbench top on top of a 2x6 frame. In the right corner of the top there is a large square that's factory cut out and he has the press mounted to the corner of the 2x6 frame with deck screws. I have to tell him he cant use deck screws or have that much flex in the press, but I don't think he wants to drill into the table top. The circled pyramid thing represents the press. I doubt he wants to screw into the table top cause its a snap on table top. Very expensive. The orange square is literally a cut out in the table top where he mounted the press.
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jmorris
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A 2x6 is strong enough to work and you can add support underneath without harming the surface.
Heck, I used drywall screws and a cheap particle board desk for awhile and it worked. Just swapped stuff around with a cordless drill.
If he doesn’t want to drill the top, just bolt the press to something he can clamp to the top.
If the object is stout enough for a person to sit on and not move, it will work for reloading.
Heck, I used drywall screws and a cheap particle board desk for awhile and it worked. Just swapped stuff around with a cordless drill.
If he doesn’t want to drill the top, just bolt the press to something he can clamp to the top.
If the object is stout enough for a person to sit on and not move, it will work for reloading.
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