Building a supressor

I would put in for the Hybrid 46. Not cheap but will last a lifetime or more, also, less legal hassles if you don't follow the build process correctly. It will seem like a long wait but may be as quick as a form 1 and building it yourself unless you have a solid plan laid out.

Silencertalk.com isn’t bad if you know how to search. If you make a post as you did here your not going to get desired results.

The form 1 is going to take the same time as a form 4 except you can’t start building until you get it approved, with the form 4 you will have already bought the can and it will be at your dealers so you can pick it up when the form 4 is approved.

I have a form 1 can for a 458 socom that is 4130 and 4140/6061 baffles that works well and has lasted many years.

jmorris said:

The form 1 is going to take the same time as a form 4 except you can’t start building until you get it approved, with the form 4 you will have already bought the can and it will be at your dealers so you can pick it up when the form 4 is approved.

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F1 and F4 wait times are the same if you paper file both, but why would anyone do that when e-file is available for F1's with a current turnaround time of ~30 days? The vast difference in wait times for e-filed F1s (~1 month) and paper F4s (~11 months) is the only reason I'm considering doing an F1 build.

As for the OP, there are a few places where you can source hard to fab parts and even kits that might be worth considering:

https://diversifiedmachine.us/shop/

https://www.form1builder.com/

Also, if you build your can and don't like how it performs, @MachIVshooter is a SOT that can re-core existing F1s with professional grade internals.

Unless I was an all out machinist and great with a lathe and milling machine I doubt I could surpass what the big name manufacturers can produce.

Plus if your sot is cool you can go try your can out while you are waiting for it, maybe develope some can friendly loads.

bob97 said:

Purpose of can would be for hunting rifle in 45-70. just a few basic ideas on what works and what doesn’t - Bang for your buck experience.

Monocore? Welded baffles? Loose baffles? 17-4? 316L? Skip SS and find a 4140 bar? Or not worth the trouble?

Thanks

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.45-70 is not an easy round to quiet, especially heavier loads. It's a big hole.

9-10" long, 1.625" OD, 12+ cone baffles. Titanium tube will help with weight, 17-4 H900 would be a good material for everything else, and a fully welded core would be preferable if you're not shooting cast bullets.

Titanium baffles would save weight, but the material is far more expensive, and unless you are set up with an inert welding chamber, that's off the table.

You could use as aluminum baffles after a couple SS or Ti ones to really reduce weight, but you have to keep the rate of fire very low with center fire rifles. I have a model with two 17-4 baffles followed by eight 7075-T651 cones. Its quiet, weighs just 9 oz, and can take 300 mag, but only a couple rounds/minute sustained.

Titanium would be a good choice for 45-70 since I'm assuming that your gun won't be capable of rapid fire.

bob97 said:

.....I am thinking SS for the balance of machinability and durability.....

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30 year mechanical designer...SS, durability yes...machinability not so much...TI is worst yet machinability wise. Good material costs good money and since you want to "reduce cost" you will have to skimp on material or machining and since you mentioned you are friends with a machinist or two I'm taking that to mean their time will be free or A LOT cheaper than a non-friend machinist. If it were me and it isn't, shop around for the best price and transfer for the 46 and call it a day.

GE-Mini-Gun said:

30 year mechanical designer...SS, durability yes...machinability not so much...TI is worst yet machinability wise. Good material costs good money and since you want to "reduce cost" you will have to skimp on material or machining and since you mentioned you are friends with a machinist or two I'm taking that to mean their time will be free or A LOT cheaper than a non-friend machinist. If it were me and it isn't, shop around for the best price and transfer for the 46 and call it a day.

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My average materials cost in a rifle model with a gr. 9 CWSR tube and all 17-4 H900 internals & mount is $70-$100.

17-4 has excellent machinability in any condition, and drops can be had pretty cheap. It's one of the few hardenable alloys that will give a nice surface finish in the annealed state, it's easy to heat treat, has almost no dimensional change from heat treatment, can be welded without preheating, and maintains good ductility & fracture toughness even in it's hardest condition. Those properties mean that I can make 17-4 parts for very nearly the same price as aluminum, since the time saved machining the aluminum is often lost in anodizing.

Agreed on Ti, though, very high material and machining cost. It's worth it for the tubes, and threading Ti tube is really no worse than threading other materials, but for most other parts the cost is substantial, and the weight savings vs. 17-4 is generally negligible, since the stronger 17-4 H900 parts can be made thinner than 6/4 Ti. I get a lot of inquiries about using Ti in recores, usually end up doing them in 17-4 or 440.

748 said:

Titanium would be a good choice for 45-70 since I'm assuming that your gun won't be capable of rapid fire.

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While Ti is oxidized & weakened by high temperatures, whether or not that actually causes a problem is another matter. I have beat the snot out of Ti tube cans on post sample machine guns, one of them to the point that aluminum internals were completely liquified and igniting on contact with atmosphere, and the thin .035" wall Ti tube with 36 pitch threads remained in tact. I'm not suggesting a non-SOT do that, since you'd be out a whole lot more than a few dollars in materials and some time, but the point is just because your Ti can exceeded 1,000°F doesn't mean it's junk.

bob97 said:

Would H1150 work instead of H900 for baffles?

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Certainly.

That said, with the thin cross section of baffles, you can get a decent heat treat on annealed 17-4 using an acetylene torch and a rose bud, heating slowly and watching your color in good lighting. That deep gold/bronze color is roughly H900.

A Ti Tube is alright .