Barrel Tuners

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Not being a short range guy I’m limited here.
I picture tuners being used primarily in the short range game where competitors reload quickly between relays, throwing a charge rather than weighing saving time , the tuner adjustments are easy due to the short range one could quickly see the groups improve or decline whereas long range or mid range one cannot see the results as easily or in real time.

Is this about right?
 
so it just changes whether the weight is mostly above or below the barrel for example? and not pushing the weight forward or backwards?

i get the theory, i just haven't played with these products and i don't know how adjusting them physically moves the weight
 
I'm also interested in these, appreciate any feedback you might have.
I guess suppressors also have a tuning effect on the barrel.
 
i get the theory, i just haven't played with these products and i don't know how adjusting them physically moves the weight

Like a Metronome, when the weight is moved forward or back on the arm(barrel), the speed at which the energy wave moves through it(the barrel) is changed.

Some have a detent adjustable screw, some a set screw. Most are threaded and twist into or out of them selves. Some clamp onto the barrel and must be retightened every time they are adjusted.
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Because the resonance waves have a very high frequency very small distance movements of the barrel weight affect the resonance wave.

The tuners are circular. Having the weight above or below, or worse to one side, would be difficult to keep in the same relation with every shot.

This guy didn't get the memo...
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Might still work...:)
 
Got out to the range this morning and ran my first test on this tuner

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The setting are supposed to move the weight 0.001” forward or back for each mark. I used a point on the adapter nut as my reference.

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Started with 2 cold bore sighter groups without the tuner then attached the tuner, set it to 0, and began shooting 3 shots at each increment. Here’s the target

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I used the bottom row to verify some of the better results from above. Setting #2 seemed to repeat itself. Note how much POI shifted after installing the tuner. I had 5 rounds left so I set it back to 2 and shot this to validate

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Bottom line for me:

1. the tuner adds another variable. That could be good if it allows you to compensate for conditions. It could be bad if you compensate in the wrong direction. Generally I’m trying to eliminate variables so I might not like this.

2. All other factors being equal, it doesn’t make your groups smaller. I shoot just as small (or big) without the tuner.

3. More experience with it will be required to say whether it’s worth the trouble. I’ll shoot a match with it next month to see how it does
 
Thanks for the report!
Is it possible you will find out more about group sizes if you fire more rounds per group, say 10?
 
I would be interested in moving the tuner more than the few increments.

Perhaps ten, fifteen, twenty.

But, like you show, setting two was repeatable. Perhaps a thousandth at a time is enough?

If it could be correlated to the temperature I could see it very useful.

Thank you for your postings! I would love to try all this my self.
Like you, good looking I am, but wealthy I am not...:D
 
I would be interested in moving the tuner more than the few increments.

Perhaps ten, fifteen, twenty.

But, like you show, setting two was repeatable. Perhaps a thousandth at a time is enough?

The maker of the tuner advises against making large adjustments and states that’s the biggest mistake people make with tuners, therefore, I followed his instructions to the tee

According to him, a node is a node, one being no better than the other so when you find one, stop.
 
Very cool and interesting results. It just keeps getting better and better! At same point you're gonna have to shoot 338 calibre to turn those cloverleaf groups into a single ragged hole!
 
Thanks for the report!
Is it possible you will find out more about group sizes if you fire more rounds per group, say 10?

I got up early and drove the extra distance to the range where I shoot F Class and shot 2 practice matches at 600 yards

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Kept the setting at the #2 position from the 100 yard test

As it did at 100, POI was low (~2 MOA) from my normal 600 DOPE.

After sighters I shot 20 rounds and scored a 200 x14. After a stint in the pits pulling for a friend I came back and shot another 20 for a 200 x11

I quit at that point. The 100 yard test results look to be verified at a distance and with a round count equivalent to what I would shoot in a match.

I guess at this point I’ll leave it as is and wait for condition changes to affect the tune and see if I can neutralize it by adjusting the tuner.
 
Nature Boy said:
I guess at this point I’ll leave it as is and wait for condition changes to affect the tune and see if I can neutralize it by adjusting the tuner.

So how's that going to work? Are you going to shoot a couple of sighters and then adjust before the shots for record? Are you going to adjust during a string? Is the idea to get a bunch of data for different conditions (density altitude) and look up a setting based on current conditions and adjust before you start shooting? Did you get any clarification on whether or not you can make an adjustment when you're on the firing line? I shot F-Class matches on a military range and we weren't allowed to do much of anything when the range was hot except load and pull the trigger.

Just to echo what others have said, this a very informative thread with interesting results.
 
So how's that going to work? Are you going to shoot a couple of sighters and then adjust before the shots for record? Are you going to adjust during a string? Is the idea to get a bunch of data for different conditions (density altitude) and look up a setting based on current conditions and adjust before you start shooting? Did you get any clarification on whether or not you can make an adjustment when you're on the firing line? I shot F-Class matches on a military range and we weren't allowed to do much of anything when the range was hot except load and pull the trigger.

Just to echo what others have said, this a very informative thread with interesting results.

You get unlimited sighters on the 1st match so that might be the time to adjust if need be. I think having the discipline not to twist it will be just as important. Is it tune or conditions or me? What direction do I turn it? According to the guy who makes these when temp increases it’s “up and in” and when temp goes down it’s “down and out”. I’ll need more experience to verity that.

Regarding safety rules, I should have asked one of the club officers as they were also out there honing their sling shooting game when I was there. Didn’t think about it. I assume I could make my rifle safe, remove it from the line, make an adjustment, then move it back.
 
Nature Boyt said:
Regarding safety rules, I should have asked one of the club officers as they were also out there honing their sling shooting game when I was there. Didn’t think about it. I assume I could make my rifle safe, remove it from the line, make an adjustment, then move it back.

I'd be very surprised if you're allowed to pull the rifle on/off the firing line when the range is hot, but ultimately it's up to the range officer. From what I've seen you've had some excellent scores in matches so it remains to be seen if your scores improve once you start shooting with the barrel tuner. It would be hard to show that any improvement is due to the tuner alone but it'll be interesting nonetheless.
 
i pulled a rifle back to my shooting mat and changed the batteries during a string once. i was actually shooting prone, not fclass though
 
I'd be very surprised if you're allowed to pull the rifle on/off the firing line when the range is hot,

Actually, it’s encouraged to do that once you’re done with your string. Can’t make range cold for a pit change until all rifles are clear (chamber flags in, magazines removed) and removed from the line. Likewise, can’t move your rifle to the line until the pits are sealed.
 
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