Rifle cheek riser project-done.

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Axis II

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I don't know if its my stature, neck length or what but on my Savage Mark II FV I just couldn't get a good cheek weld and it would make shooting off a rest difficult. If you notice in the attached pictures, the stock seems to have a very hard dip to it. I got to looking around online and saw Kydex cheek rests and thought I could make one of those. I found a template online, purchased a sheet of kydex (needed it anyways) and got to work.

I started with a 12x12 sheet of .93 Kydex that can be purchased from Tandy Leather or Amazon, heat gun, toaster oven, Mechanix wear gloves, tin snips, speed square, belt sander and marker. I first drew my template onto a piece of computer paper and fitted it to the rifle to see how it looked. I then transferred it to the shiny/back side of the Kydex and traced it with a silver sharpie. I cut it out with tin snips, sanded the rough edges a bit, turned my toaster oven to 250 degrees and placed the cut Kydex in the oven for about 3-4minutes. Don't go any longer or hotter or you will melt it.

Put on your thick gloves and remove the tray from the oven and carefully center the Kydex over the rear of the buttstock and hold it in place until it cools/hardens. I had a couple spots that were warped, but the heat gun on them for a few seconds and they flatten right out.

I finished off rounding the edges with the belt sander and smoothing some stuff out. Once completed I cut small pieced of duct tape to check my fit and it fits perfect. Now, my girlfriend loves shooting this rifle at the range so instead of using rivets, or drilling into my stock I purchased several strips of extreme Velcro to make the riser adjustable. If anyone has fit issues with a rifle I highly recommend doing this modification. Also, if anyone would like one of these for a savage Axis or Mark II PM me and I will see what I can do with a PIF of one of these. I am playing with the idea of making it rounded outwards instead of inwards and maybe flattening the corners so they don't grab. I know its not pretty bit it works great. Its very solid and doesn't budge.

After some thought and looking at this riser I made I think I will be cutting and sanding the backside flush instead of that goofy curve. I think it would look much better. I will repost pics when its complete.
 

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Good first Kydex project! Working with ABS has a short learning curve, so each project you do will be markedly better the one before. I've made dozens of holsters and mag carries (I really like making leather/ABS hybrid holsters), countless custom car parts and I even used to have a small business making ABS handguns for motorcycles. It's a fun medium to work with! ABS is very versatile and you can get really creative with it.

A few tips:
  • Find a local plastics shop and buy a 4x8 (foot) sheet of ABS plastic. Kydex is just a brand name of ABS sheet, and the cost for a 4x8 sheet at a local plastics supplier will be about what Tandy Leather charges for 3 or 4 of the 12"x12" squares of Kydex. When I started working with ABS, I wasted far too much money buying small quantities of name-brand Kydex from Tandy and Knifekits.com
  • When using the heat gun, go really easy. You can always add more heat and reshape, but once you overheat ABS, you can never fix it. I can see at the rear end of your cheek riser where you overheated the Kydex and it has taken on a glossy sheen and uneven texture.
  • For long, straight cuts, just score the ABS with a box knife and snap it. That works really well.
  • Play with different thicknesses. It's widely available from 1/16" (.060) all the way to 3/8" (.375) thick. I've used the really thin stuff for pocket holsters (made one for my Khar CM9 that I really love) and the really thick stuff for things like a front bumper splitter and custom dashboard for my car.
  • For repeatability of parts (like making several copies of your cheek riser) cut a template from tempered hardboard. Then you can rough cut the ABS, stick it to the template with carpet tape and run it on a router table with a pattern cutting bit. Depending on the thickness of your ABS, you can tape 2-3 layers of ABS to the template at a time.
 
Well I took my newly acquired cheek riser out for a squirrel hunt a few weeks ago and the duct tape didn't hold up as I suspected. I purchased heavy duty Velcro with like a 30lbs separating strength and now its adjustable and rock solid. I played around with it this morning and it brings my eye to the correct height as soon as the rifle is shouldered and holds the cheek weld very firmly.
 
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