Bullet weight for a 50cal in-line with a 1_32 twist using sabots

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Looking to order some sabots for that cheap 50cal in-line i picked up. Still on the fence to get ones for the 44 or 45 cal bullets. But what weight would be best for the 1-32 twist. Thanks troy.
 
I use a 240 grain .44 lead bullet with sabot in a 1 in 48" twist that shoots very well.
I also use a 225 grain lead bullet with sabot in a 1 in 28" twist that shoots very well. I think the 225 grain is a .44 Buffalo Bullet that came pre-packaged with a sabot.

I mentioned to you before that a shorter and lighter bullet with sabot may shoot better due to being easier to stabilize with a moderate 1 in 32" fast twist.
A heavier bullet would be longer and slightly harder to stabilize in theory.
A 250 grain bullet or lighter with a sabot should work since they're the most popular.

Other bullets may also work but it's always a matter of experimenting.
Hornady make a 240 grain bore size conical named the Pennsylvania .50 Conical but that doesn't work with a sabot in a .50, it's just a bore size lead conical.
But they do come in a box of 5o and cost is usually under $20. --->>> https://www.muzzle-loaders.com/hornady-pa-conical-bullet-50-caliber-240-grain-lead-h6617.html

Sabots usually provide a tighter fit with the rifling and will work with different weight bullets if you have more than one bullet weight to try.
.44 or .45 doesn't usually make too much difference, but I like .44's because they have a little better sectional density.
 
I use a 240 grain .44 lead bullet with sabot in a 1 in 48" twist that shoots very well.
I also use a 225 grain lead bullet with sabot in a 1 in 28" twist that shoots very well. I think the 225 grain is a .44 Buffalo Bullet that came pre-packaged with a sabot.

I mentioned to you before that a shorter and lighter bullet with sabot may shoot better due to being easier to stabilize with a moderate 1 in 32" fast twist.
A heavier bullet would be longer and slightly harder to stabilize in theory.
A 250 grain bullet or lighter with a sabot should work since they're the most popular.

Other bullets may also work but it's always a matter of experimenting.
Hornady make a 240 grain bore size conical named the Pennsylvania .50 Conical but that doesn't work with a sabot in a .50, it's just a bore size lead conical.
But they do come in a box of 5o and cost is usually under $20. --->>> https://www.muzzle-loaders.com/hornady-pa-conical-bullet-50-caliber-240-grain-lead-h6617.html

Sabots usually provide a tighter fit with the rifling and will work with different weight bullets if you have more than one bullet weight to try.
.44 or .45 doesn't usually make too much difference, but I like .44's because they have a little better sectional density.
The only mold i have for 44 now is a 200 gr witch s light but may work. I don't have any 452 molds. I have a 450 mile for the 1858 remingtons but there like 160gr.

I only plan to shoot 50 to 75 yards. I have killed deer just fine with the 200. What do you think on the 200 gr.
 
you may not know it but a 1/32 twist 50 cal inline is a lot easier to to shoot than a 1/28 twist. i recommend mmp heavy duty sabots bought on line for a 451 or 452 bullet. its your choise as their are so many out their to buy. get the 250 grain or the 240 grain hollow point. wipe the barrel between rounds but is your using black horn 209 powder their is no need to wipe between rounds. i use about 130 grains of powder behind this load but if that is too much for you 100 grains should shoot holes at any range for you. this should easily get you a deer to 200 yards or even beyond. now their is another bullet that works very very well in your rifle. it is the traditions fullbore bullet, 300 grain. just cut the plastic tip off so you can use your own ramrod to set the bullet on the powder. they are super accurate and hit hard. my son got his huge muley buck at a 216 yard shot off hand in the neck with 130 grains of blackhorn 209 powder behind the bullet. barely dropped ant 200 yards. either one i talked about will work very very well for you. have a good hunt. lung shots are good but a neck shot drops them instantly.
 
The only mold i have for 44 now is a 200 gr witch s light but may work. I don't have any 452 molds. I have a 450 mile for the 1858 remingtons but there like 160gr.

I only plan to shoot 50 to 75 yards. I have killed deer just fine with the 200. What do you think on the 200 gr.
A 200 gr bullet from a rifle will easily kill deer out to 100+ yds with good shot placement. I've taken deer with 220 gr bullets out to 30 yds with my ROA which is much slower than out of a rifle.
 
you may not know it but a 1/32 twist 50 cal inline is a lot easier to to shoot than a 1/28 twist. i recommend mmp heavy duty sabots bought on line for a 451 or 452 bullet. its your choise as their are so many out their to buy. get the 250 grain or the 240 grain hollow point. wipe the barrel between rounds but is your using black horn 209 powder their is no need to wipe between rounds. i use about 130 grains of powder behind this load but if that is too much for you 100 grains should shoot holes at any range for you. this should easily get you a deer to 200 yards or even beyond. now their is another bullet that works very very well in your rifle. it is the traditions fullbore bullet, 300 grain. just cut the plastic tip off so you can use your own ramrod to set the bullet on the powder. they are super accurate and hit hard. my son got his huge muley buck at a 216 yard shot off hand in the neck with 130 grains of blackhorn 209 powder behind the bullet. barely dropped ant 200 yards. either one i talked about will work very very well for you. have a good hunt. lung shots are good but a neck shot drops them instantly.
This inline uses the # 10 or 11 I forget the size percussion caps. Will they lite the blackhorn 209.
 
no, only a shotgun primer will light up 209 powder. real black powder is one of the most accurate powders ever made. use it and a use a range rod to wipe between rounds. it can be done very fast with practice.
 
no, only a shotgun primer will light up 209 powder. real black powder is one of the most accurate powders ever made. use it and a use a range rod to wipe between rounds. it can be done very fast with practice.
Ya I figured it would not light. I use purposes most times here in ny. I like to clean very shot anyway to keep the gun shooting like it's a cold bore
 
their is one way a shooter from the east coast taught me as he said his whole muzzleloader club does it his way. put real black or 777 or pyrodex pistol powder under the black horn 209 powder next to the flash hole. then blackhorn 209 on top of it. not much is needed of the first powder down the tube. he told me even the rock locks at his club do this and it works very well. my inline uses shot gun primers and on my side locks i have that neat mag spark nipple that uses shot gun primers. the two powders i really like is real black and black horn 209, they both are very accurate. however i use 777 in my cowboy 38 special.
 
their is one way a shooter from the east coast taught me as he said his whole muzzleloader club does it his way. put real black or 777 or pyrodex pistol powder under the black horn 209 powder next to the flash hole. then blackhorn 209 on top of it. not much is needed of the first powder down the tube. he told me even the rock locks at his club do this and it works very well. my inline uses shot gun primers and on my side locks i have that neat mag spark nipple that uses shot gun primers. the two powders i really like is real black and black horn 209, they both are very accurate. however i use 777 in my cowboy 38 special.
I have to pick up a pound of pyrodex i am about out, I may see what else I can find. I have heard of that trick but never had to use it. I do have rws musket caps maybe I can find a nipple.
 
Juts so you know, Black Horn is not recommended for guns that don't have a closed ignition system.
And your rifle is a plunger type which does not have a closed ignition.
While it may work and others may be using it with duplex loads, I would guess they issue the warning because of the additional pressure of the Black Horn powder.
 
Juts so you know, Black Horn is not recommended for guns that don't have a closed ignition system.
And your rifle is a plunger type which does not have a closed ignition.
While it may work and others may be using it with duplex loads, I would guess they issue the warning because of the additional pressure of the Black Horn powder.
I don't have any plans to use the blackhorn $38 over the state line in pa. I'll stick with my pyrodex for $20 a pound.
 
Look at estate sales / yard sales, I just picked up some and paid 8.00 for 14 bottles both black and substitute, then found a box with a dozen #11 & #10 caps and 5 209s for 2.00. They were having a "moving sale" and prices were good
 
This inline uses the # 10 or 11 I forget the size percussion caps. Will they lite the blackhorn 209.
Blackhorn209 is a nightmare. It changes poi for the first few shots, then settles in. I can't accept that for a hunting gun.
Try 777 loose powder or real black.
The maxi Hunter and maxi ball do well with 80-100 grains of powder.
For me .452 bullets worked better than .429s.
Try both mmp black and yellow sabots.
 
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