New stock question

I’ve always been in the ballpark, never completely out of the game. If you’re concerned about an ammo shortage you could grab a box of Core-Lokt or better yet Federal Fusion in case it isn’t on paper before proceeding with handloads.

if your action was properly bedded to the factory stock, and also to yuour aftermarket, there should be little or no change in POI.
Going from an unbeded factory to an unbeded aftermarket, and like Skyler said, you should be on paper at least. I still second his recommendation to buy a cheap box of factory ammo, or take an extra 10-20rnds of handloads.

The original stock had only the recoil lug bedded into that off color tool but mine actually shot really well until the stock broke. Most bedding jobs entail the lug and action screws, sometimes all bridged together (I prefer separate) so that wood is not compressed and the action fits into the same position each time with no movement from at least the lug back.

hillman23 said:

...I had to chip off the old bedding glue Winchester put on the locking lug in order to be certain it to fit in the HS Precision.

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Assuming you were able to remove all the old "stuff" from when the action was in your old stock and that you have now properly torqued the action screws into your new stock - which has an aluminum bedding block - then you should be all set. Take 'er to the range and touch a few off to see where you're at.

(From the H-S Precision web site: "Every stock we produce will have an aluminum bedding block that is machined specifically to the dimensions of the barreled action it will be used with.")

hillman23 said:

Thanks for the feedback. Question Loonwolf: what’s bedded vs unbedded? I presume that to mean glass bedding or some such process? All I’ve done is torque the action screws to their recommended specs same as I had done with the original factory stock. (Different specs but same thing)

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generally bedded usually refers to epoxy bedding.
But in as an overall statement "bedded" just means that the action and barrel sit securely in the stock, without odd pressure points. there's a number of ways to achieve that, epoxy usually being the easiest.

aluminum blocks are also pretty common, tho I don't trust them 100% I've seen too many miss milled square things.

HS also suggests that skim bedding may improve results, at least that’s what mine said back when.

My guess is that at worst you'll still be on paper at 100 yards. You may have to make minor adjustments, but unless something just doesn't fit right you'll be close. But I'd not just go hunting and expect it to be zeroed.

(From the H-S Precision web site: "Every stock we produce will have an aluminum bedding block that is machined specifically to the dimensions of the barreled action it will be used with.")

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The stocks may all be identical, but I'd not bet the action and recoil lug on a 40 year old Winchester made in New Haven is identical to a 10 year old rifle made in South Carolina or a new one made in Portugal. Over time minor variations in tolerances is normal.

Generally speaking the stocks with the aluminum chassis are fine out of the box. Some people glass bed them, but unless something is way off you rarely see any improvement in accuracy. Some guys just do it out of habit, they glass bed all of them. I've done a few, never noticed any improvement in accuracy, but some do.

The pressure point in a forearm, if removed, makes the most change in point of bullet impact.

The M70 Shadow series and their ilk never had such a pressure point, they were free-floated (mostly) in plastic stocks.

Before (M70)


After (M70)


And an HS stock (Rem 700)

looks good so far!

First time in a long time that I struck out deer season was this week. Had to settle for a store bought beef stick. That’s a very respectable group and with 73gr of powder packed behind it plenty of guys would open that up considerably.