1911 damaging brass.

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Barry loyd

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4C8F412F-846B-4E34-BC1D-CD559377A8CB.jpeg I’m getting brass like this after firing. The gun is a Taurus PT1911. I do get the dented mouth every now and then but that’s no big deal. This is only a concern because I reload. Anyone know what’s causing this?
 
I have seen similar before. In that gun the brass was not clearing the slide fast enough and got crushed. Sorry but I can't remember how he fixed it. I think the slide spring was weak but I'm not sure at all.
 
The fired case pushes the slide back on firing. The case head should stay under the extractor & pressed against the bolt face. Then the ejector kicks the case out.

Your brass appears to be getting bumped by the next round in the magazine. The magazine may be letting the round sit to high in the magazine? Do all magazines do it.

The slide coming closed, smashes the brass into the slide/frame.
 
The fired case pushes the slide back on firing. The case head should stay under the extractor & pressed against the bolt face. Then the ejector kicks the case out.

Your brass appears to be getting bumped by the next round in the magazine. The magazine may be letting the round sit to high in the magazine? Do all magazines do it.

The slide coming closed, smashes the brass into the slide/frame.
Only have two mags and they both do it.
 
69C49A59-CF27-44EB-A81E-EFA75DAC8AD1.jpeg Yep, the brass is hitting the top of the slide. On the front of the ejection port there is brass in the middle and right side of the port.
 
When was the last time you cleaned the gunk out of the extractor tunnel? Its pretty easy to get crud under the extractor and stop it from gripping the case tight enough.

If it were mine, I would check to see how the extractor holds a case now, and then detail clean the slide. Then check the extractor again. If it feels like it holds better great, go shooting.
If not, add some tension (bend the extractor a smidge), then go shooting.
 
That is bizarre. I've seen 1911's that dent cases but nothing like that. One thing I've noticed on the 1911 design is the length of the ejector greatly influences the timing of the kick out. On my Series 70 Colt (5") the ejector is short. On my Ruger SR1911 CMD (4.25") the ejector is a good 1/8" or slightly more longer, but the cases properly kick out to about the 4 or 5 o'clock position. I tried shortening it once and it started sending cases right into my forehead (a live and learn moment).

Just putting that out there if you exhaust the other areas of examination without success.
 
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Yes, the extractor has to hold the case lightly. To much can hurt feeding.
The fired case needs to stay on the bolt face, till the ejector kicks it out.

At times, the metal lips on the magazine need adjustment, by bending. This needs to be measured, while adjustimg a few thousands at a time, between test firimg.
Something to check. My guess.

My Gold Cup runs 100% and looks like this.
 
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If a complete slide stripdown and detailed cleaning doesn't fix things try replacing the recoil & hammer springs. If you still get mangled brass after all that, well, why you paid any attention to me I can't imagine.

(I'm no expert but I'm full of opinions anyway. )
 
My 38 Super does that with the factory extractor because I’m using rimless brass. It isn’t engaging properly. Tightening it MAY help.
 
Just out of curiosity what sort of velocity are you getting and what bullet weight are you using? Looks like you are using very low powered ammo and the slide is not going fully back with enough speed to eject the cartridges. I see this sort of thing when reloaders start using a 21 pound spring with their reloads that worked perfect on a 16 pound spring as well

-kBob
 
If you are reloading, what kbob said. If you are using factory of some sort, it has to do with the timing, as other posters alluded to. I had the same issue with my first 1911, though the cases weren't that dented. I put a 18.5 pound recoil spring in, and the issue stopped.
 
I am fairly certain that in one 1911 I experienced stove pipes similar that gave similar case damage. @kBob 's question about the load you are using is relevant. Is this ammunition clearing the ejection port?
 
I’ll try to answer everyone’s questions.

Factory ammo and reloads are getting damaged. My reloads are 4.0gr titegroup, 230gr clrn, 1.20 OAL. Factory ammo has been WWB.

Gun was detail stripped and cleaned last Sunday. Down to bare frame and slide. The extractor channel and firing pin channel were cleaned.

I pulled the extractor out last night. The extractor came out a little too easy. Reinstallation was today too easy. I didn’t have to put any side pressure on it for it to go in only the downward pressure of putting it in. I bent it just a smidge. I looked at the tool brownells sells to see how it needs to be bent.

Going over to the in-laws today to put some rounds through it to see if that fixed it.

As a side note, I never had any stoppages due to the case damage. Though I was getting hit in the head and chest with the empties at times.
 
I never had any stoppages due to the case damage.
No fired case jammed in the action, keeping the slide from closing? Ok.

GI model slides don't get ported. They damage brass. See difference between your slide and mine.

Other wise, getting hit in the head is an Ejector problem? Angle/shape?
 
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This is what caused damage like that to the brass with my SIG P238. On average, I lost around 10% of my brass to it, as it wasnt reloadable.

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Its the only way Ive seen brass end up like that out of a 1911 type gun, and it caused a stoppage each and every time.
 
This case damage is the result of a poorly fit extractor that is losing control of the case as the slide moves rearward. The faster the slide moves rearward, the more potential for this to happen. The case drops off the extractor and since there are no more cartridges in the magazine the now floating case is not pushed out of the ejection port. Neither does the empty case strike the ejector since it's no longer being pulled rearward by the ejector. The slide screams forward pushing the empty case into the barrel hood which causes the damage shown in the pictures.

The way I dealt with this exact problem was to throw away the OEM extractor and fit a new EGW extractor. Remember, there's more to fitting an extractor than just setting the tension.
 
It's lack of extractor tension. Both my Dan Wesson 10mm pistols had flat extractors from the factory. Once I set the tension the problem was solved.
 
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