That is a Deal!
Mine shot high and the slide opened hard and fast. While it functioned each shot, I was worried about peening. I sent it back to the factory, for free! It only cost me the price of a box, and they sent it back and it shoots to point of aim and the hard recoil issue is gone.
This is a bare bones 1911 and I like the configuration. I consider carrying a 1911 cocked and locked dangerous because I have had the safety bump off. So have many others. And, it is easy to bump extended safeties on/off accidentally. Happens all the time. The pistol was designed, and carried, round in the chamber, hammer down. The only reasonably safe way to lower the hammer is to pull the trigger with one hand, and place the middle finger of the other hand, for me left hand, between the hammer and frame. I pull the trigger, the hammer is released but it is blocked by the middle finger. I pull the middle finger slowly out, lowering the hammer slowly, using the forefinger behind the hammer spur to control the process more positively. When I get the hammer to half cock, my middle finger is totally withdrawn, and it is a simple matter of lowering the hammer completely down, slowly, with the forefinger.
Once the hammer is down, the only way to fire the gun is by dropping it on its muzzle. The mechanism has a short, rebounding firing pin that will not contact the primer unless it is hit hard by the hammer. A high enough drop will create enough inertia that the firing pin will over come the spring tension. For a series 70 action, this is true whether the hammer is down, or the piece is cocked and locked. Once the hammer is down, the long hammer spur and out of the way grip safety tang allow quick thumb cocking, either by the support hand or the shooting hand. The early pre A1 1911's had a very wide hammer spur and the grip safety did not have a tang, all features to make it easy to thumb cock the pistol.
The pistol only has a safety because the horse cavalry needed a way to make the pistol safe with one hand. If the horse went bonkers, the rider could convulsively grab the trigger and fire the weapon. The safety allowed the rider to make the piece safe with one hand. Assuming he did not fall off the horse before putting the safety on. I knew a gunsmith who was in the pre WW2 horse cavalry. A bud of his fell off his horse during saber practice. His sword was attached to his wrist by the sword knot. Bud had released the sword, but still, it was attached to his wrist, and did not go far. As he fell, the sword reversed, rotated, the point got under the arm pit of the falling rider. The man was impaled when he and his sword hit the ground. He died, and it was not uncommon for men to be hurt, or shots fired, when riders lost control of their horses.
Until then the troop trails, John Browning's 45 Automatic designs did not have a thumb safety. Now how did John Browning carry this 45 Automatic?
The pistol has been heavily modified, starting in the 1950's with the Leatherslap crowd, to make the pistol fast to shoot in quick draw games. Walk and draw Cowboy games were all the rage, you could easily identify evil doers as they wore black cowboy hats. And it was well established in movies and TV, that the first man to clear leather always won the gunfight. Hence the long, extended safeties, (which bump off, and on easily!) and beavertails (which are comfortable), and small hammers. These modifications make condition two carry difficult, but the original A1 configuration, which the RIA GI follows, makes condition two easy. Just don't lower the hammer with the thumb of the shooting hand. Lots of accidental discharges have occurred when the hammer slipped off the thumb. Use two hands to lower the hammer.
