Smallest/lightest 9mm revolver

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cvicisso

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Greetings - first time post (long-time lurker!).

I am interested in finding/acquiring the smallest/lightest revolver that meets the following constraints:
  • Must be able to safely fire any/all factory-loaded 9mm ammo (+P, <125 gr, etc)
  • Must have a shrouded hammer (preferred) or be "hammerless" (I know there's still a hammer in there)
    • Reason: holster-less coat pocket carry (and potential use from coat pocket)
That's it.

Things I'm not interested in (sorry - but this could save some time and typing!):
  • Recoil
  • Whether or not it can shoot .38 Spl, .357 Mag, etc.
  • Debating the efficacy of the 9mm vs above (or any other) calibers
  • Debating holster-less coat pocket carry
  • Debating revolver vs. auto for self-defense
I thought it would be easy to find a J-frame to fit the bill, but it's actually quite confusing (to me) given the above constraints. Then I thought I could just get a dedicated 9mm cylinder for converting an existing J frame platform, but starting reading about getting the right frame window size, endshake shims, etc. and quickly realized it was probably something better left to professionals.

So, what say ye? Thanks in advance.
 
Greetings - first time post (long-time lurker!).

I am interested in finding/acquiring the smallest/lightest revolver that meets the following constraints:
  • Must be able to safely fire any/all factory-loaded 9mm ammo (+P, <125 gr, etc)
  • Must have a shrouded hammer (preferred) or be "hammerless" (I know there's still a hammer in there)
    • Reason: holster-less coat pocket carry (and potential use from coat pocket)
That's it.

Things I'm not interested in (sorry - but this could save some time and typing!):
  • Recoil
  • Whether or not it can shoot .38 Spl, .357 Mag, etc.
  • Debating the efficacy of the 9mm vs above (or any other) calibers
  • Debating holster-less coat pocket carry
  • Debating revolver vs. auto for self-defense
I thought it would be easy to find a J-frame to fit the bill, but it's actually quite confusing (to me) given the above constraints. Then I thought I could just get a dedicated 9mm cylinder for converting an existing J frame platform, but starting reading about getting the right frame window size, endshake shims, etc. and quickly realized it was probably something better left to professionals.

So, what say ye? Thanks in advance.


Ruger LCR in 9mm
 
Thanks. The Ruger is 17 oz - which isn't bad, but... was hoping there existed a smaller/lighter "Airweight" J-frame. I know I'm splitting hairs - just trying to make a purchase I won't regret.
 
I would recommend a S&W air weight 438 with the shrouded hammer. The hammer is still accessible but with a shroud covering it almost entirely. It can be shot SA or DA.

I wouldn't choose 9mm, an auto round, for a revolver just like I wouldn't choose ..38 spl for a semi-auto pistol. The rimless 9mm isn't going to eject as easily from a revolver as the rimmed .38spl will. (When I was young my father taught me not to use a hammer to drive in a screw and not to use a screwdriver to pound in a nail.)

If you want to shoot 9mm buy a semi-auto 9mm pistol. If you want a pistol that meets your criteria buy a .38 spl. As far as 9mm vs .38spl they are so close in power I consider them pretty much interchangeable.


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Smith and wesson made a j frame 9mm, the 940, but for what the price difference is between it and the LCR, I see no reason to spend 4x the coin and have the exact same performance. Not to mention, the 940 wasn’t exactly light if I remember correctly. I’m thinking it was the steel j frame.

get the lcr and call it a day.
 
Thanks. The Ruger is 17 oz - which isn't bad, but... was hoping there existed a smaller/lighter "Airweight" J-frame. I know I'm splitting hairs - just trying to make a purchase I won't regret.

I have the LCR .357 (~17 oz) and my wife carries the LCR .38 Spl (~13 oz). I'm pretty sure the 9mm version is same as the .357--stainless steel and polymer, making them extremely low maintenance if you daily carry them. The .38 Spl version is aluminum/polymer, accounting for its very light weight.
 
I have a 9mm Ruger LCRx. You won't go wrong with the LCR. I pocket carry mine all the time. I don't consider seventeen ounces too heavy. The slight extra weight over the .38 gives you more recoil control. Those are my observations anyway.
 
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I agree with beeenbag, whatever S&W is out there isn't worth the extra price over an LCR.
 
I don't think S&W ever made a lightweight J frame 9mm. Only the steel frame 940.
Taurus & Charter Arms have made them.
But honestly the Ruger LCR is probably the best way to get what you want.
 
I think you want a little junk in the trunk of a 9mm snubbie. Not a lot, but the 9mm is a snappy round out of a lightweight gun. The LCR in 9mm is just about perfect if you want to shoot 9mm out of a wheel.

I moved back to a .38 though. It just feels like it suits the platform better.
 
I would recommend a S&W air weight 438 with the shrouded hammer. The hammer is still accessible but with a shroud covering it almost entirely. It can be shot SA or DA.
Thanks - this is the platform I was eyeballing because of the ability to go SA if desired but still being pocket-friendly, but my question was whether I can somehow get a 9mm cylinder for it, and whether that would be safe.

Not going to take the bait on the rest of your post. :)
 
Had one - LCD 9mm.
Did not like it. Traded back into a J frame
YMMV
This is what I'm afraid of too. It's looking like I'll end up with an LCR (because it seems like there isn't a J-frame - real or hypothetical - to fit my needs), but I think I'll regret it for anesthetic reasons.
 
The looks grow on you with the LCR. I hate plastic guns. And yet I have the LCRx. Tried the LCP. Too snappy for me. Oh, on a side note: the Pachmayr Guardian grip is really a functional idea. At least it works for me. YMMV.
 
My 38 LCR and my friend's 357 LCR both have excellent DAO triggers. They are light, easy to carry, easy to draw, and we both shoot them well.

They look kind of funny, but that's easy to get used to.

I prefer mine to my J-frame, as well as my Charter Arms, and Taurus snubbies.
 
The 438 you like is an "Airweight" revolver by S&W. The airweights have an aluminum alloy frame, with a steel cylinder and barrel. These run about 15.5 ounces. The J frames that S&W makes in 357 are all steel and weigh about 22 ounces. The 9mm J frames that S&W used to make in 9mm were all steel so the LCR is lighter
 
Thanks - this is the platform I was eyeballing because of the ability to go SA if desired but still being pocket-friendly, but my question was whether I can somehow get a 9mm cylinder for it, and whether that would be safe.

Not going to take the bait on the rest of your post. :)

You probably could get one converted, but from what I've heard, results are mixed.
9mm measures .355 where .38 measures .357
 
It seems the LCR is the lightest of the current 9mm offerings. Like said above, S&W never made a 15oz Airweight or 12.5oz Airlite in 9mm, only the 23oz M940.

Currently, if you want light with a shrouded hammer it's the Ruger LCR. The Taurus and Charter Arms revolvers are heavier.
 
Here is a picture of my "942" a 642 with a 940 cylinder.
Ok, now THIS is exactly the kind of info I was looking for. The 642 frame is an "Airweight" right? So, you are shooting 9mm out of an aluminum .38 Special frame. I like it. A few questions:
  1. Disregarding recoil (which I don't care about), do/would you feel safe shooting +P loads
  2. I'm not sure if the >125 gr warning is on the non-Scandium frames, but either way - is it safe to shoot lighter bullets with your setup?
  3. What about the cylinder/frame(?) 'window?' I read you had to make sure to get the right size cylinder - the dashes in the model have something to do with it I think.
  4. Did you have to do any machining, trimming, polishing, or shimming or anything other than simply swapping the cylinder?
  5. What's the new non-loaded weight with the 9mm cylinder?
  6. Where did you get the 9mm cylinder, and roughly how much $ should I expect to pay?
  7. Do you think this would also work on a 638 frame (shrouded SA/DA hammer, aluminum, .38 Spl)
Thanks!!
 
from what I've heard, results are mixed.
9mm measures .355 where .38 measures .357
Thanks Lucky - that's a good point that I forgot to mention I also don't care about. :) If I'm shooting through a coat pocket, I'm not worried (even slightly) about accuracy. But if I got the shrouded hammer (vs hammerless) design, you are right - my SA non-pocket-fired accuracy would probably suffer. I'm good with that compromise, because I doubt I would ever need to use it in single action at any range that would make a difference. Heck, let's face it - I'm not likely to use for what it was designed for at all, ever! At least I hope not!

Thanks for your reply.
 
My 38 LCR and my friend's 357 LCR both have excellent DAO triggers. They are light, easy to carry, easy to draw, and we both shoot them well.

They look kind of funny, but that's easy to get used to.

I prefer mine to my J-frame, as well as my Charter Arms, and Taurus snubbies.
Thanks Tallball. Why (specifically) do you prefer the LCR to the J-frame? Right now, really the only things holding me back from the LCR are the looks and the slight size/weight increase over the Airweight J-frame (assuming a 9mm Airweight conversion is even possible).
 
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