thinking about a new folder

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Interesting. Do you mind saying what other knife you had in that steel besides the Kershaw Chill?
 
Do you mind saying what other knife you had in that steel besides the Kershaw Chill?
It was a Kershaw Cryo.
I guess I should add this, I work in construction and often I need to lay down protection for finished or semi finished floors. These floor protecting products like Ramboard or heavy brown thick paper will dull 8Cr13MoV in short order after cutting about 12 feet of these products and the blade is done. normally I use a utility knife but sometimes I use my pocket knife and 8Cr13MoV is not up to the task. Maybe Kershaw is not heat treating this steel correctly?
 
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Thanks. Not sure exactly what to make of those results. It's not a super-steel, by any means, but it should be a decent performer if the maker did everything right--probably roughly comparable to AUS8.
 
The rankings on that website are consistent with my understanding of its performance with a proper heat treat. Not a super-steel by any means, but a decent performer when done right..
 
is the Ritter blade steel and heat treat superior?


The Ritter is a better designed and manufactured knife than either of the other you're considering. It should be considering the knife is more expensive. The one question will be whether it fits your hand and whether you like a perfectly flat carrying knife. I think the Ritter is one of the very best using folders and it is a very strong knife, but I'm a flat knife guy and carry a Sebenza (which may be habit since I've carried a Sebenza long before I met Doug or handled the old and new folder).

If it is important, it is American down to the CPM 20CV steel, which is tough, hard, impressive cutting stuff, but not for someone that doesn't know how to sharpen.
 
https://knifeinformer.com/discovering-the-best-knife-steel/
I found this of interest.
I looking for a modest pocket knife with good edge retention and durability, a 3" blade weighing in at around 3oz should fit the bill.
That's an interesting site, but look at https://knifesteelnerds.com/ if you really want to get more definitive info. Larrin has a PhD in metallurgy, and works in the field. He also does some of his own legitimate scientific testing, not the bro science most others engage in. In particular, Larrin disagees with knife informer's assertion that CTS-XHP is highly corrosion resistant - https://knifesteelnerds.com/2019/07/29/xhp-steel-history-and-properties/. XHP is still a really interesting steel though, so don't rule it out if you find a knife you like with that blade steel.
 
Doug Ritter emailed me back regarding a smaller version of the mk1 g2 with a 3" blade " at this time we do not offer a smaller version"
Doug did not give any clues if one was in the works : (
 
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If I were wanting max edge holding I'd at least consider something made with D-2.
 
For now the Spyderco Native 5 with cpm s30v I looked at for under $100 looks like my best option.
 
The Manix 2 XL is my first choice in a reasonably priced, hard-use folder.
 
I did get to check out the Manix, I also looked at the Spyderco Tenacious and liked the blade w/o the finger choil, I wish it was offered with a better steel.
Well, the D'Allara 3 is discontinued and on sale if you want something in that size range without a finger choil - https://www.bladehq.com/item--Spyderco-D-Allara-3-Ball-Bearing--50822. Also, I'd avoid buying anything nicer than a value line Spyderco (like the tenacious) through Amazon: The very liberal return policy with any inventory they ship is a widely known entry point for counterfeits.
 
I saw the D'Allara on line and didn't know what to make of the lock release. It's larger and heavier than what I consider just about right.
I will look into it, thank you.
 
As of now I"m thinking thinking about these, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077QY5W3...olid=30PN92KSEYEWX&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CVHCN...olid=30PN92KSEYEWX&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it I'm not sure about the handle difference between these two knives and if it is a major factor in strength? I have not handled theses knives but I did see this in person and it was acceptable, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ILFN5D...olid=30PN92KSEYEWX&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
And then there is this that I have not handled, https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Nat...39D51ASYP2TY9MSAZ&refRID=2Q139D51ASYP2TY9MSAZ
Different steel and handle, I curious about these handle differences.
 
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I am a Spyderco guy myself, Hard to beat the American made Native, or the Japanese made Endura. Caution to those who buy knives on Amazon and E-Bay, quite a few fakes out there, some are close enough that they are very difficult to spot.
 
I like the natives, small enough that you forget its in your pocket and has a nice thick blade on it.
That's what am after a medium sized folder that is a good slicer and keeps a edge. I have a razor utility knife in my tool belt but it is often dull from trimming drywall, I need something sharp that stays sharp for cardboard and heavy paper I cut hundreds of feet of this stuff.
 
That's what am after a medium sized folder that is a good slicer and keeps a edge. I have a razor utility knife in my tool belt but it is often dull from trimming drywall, I need something sharp that stays sharp for cardboard and heavy paper I cut hundreds of feet of this stuff.

When I know I am going to be opening a lot of boxes and tearing them down I carry my Gerber folding utility knife. It is small, light and a really nice handy size but the best part is that when the blade is dull I just put a new blade in. (The Gerber utility blades are a bit thicker than standard utility blades which is nice and I don't mind paying the little extra for). Pretty sad but when I pay $100+ for a pocket knife I am more hesitant to actually use it!

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I have considered and looked seriously a some of the replaceable blade hunting knives.

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Some people enjoy the fine art of sharpening their own high quality knifes... unfortunately I am not one of them.
 
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