Bought a Ruger GP 100 today

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I haven't looked into what's involved in changing the springs yet. But I will probably look into it. Springs are one of those things that makes me nervous. They usually fly out before you can see how they are supposed to go back in.
 
Changing springs on GP100 is easy as cake. You only have the hammer spring and trigger return spring, but again, I've changed them out dozens of times. If you've not done it I can understand the apprehension, but it does make the trigger much better.

Like I said I haven't looked into it yet. I am pretty mechanically inclined for the most part. I do things myself as much as possible. I hate throwing money away when I can usually figure things out.

Lots of good videos on YouTube

Yes I figured there would be. You Tube is awesome. It can turn almost anyone into a pro with minimal effort.

I will have to look into the wolf spring kit a little more. I looked it up but didn't have time to look into it like I wanted. There seems to be a selection of different springs with different spring rates. Being I'm kind of new to revolvers I don't know what spring I would like. My Kimber trigger is very short and very light. I like it but I know the double action revolver is a different animal.
 
Triggershims.com has stuff for the 100.
I purchased (1) of these wolff kits there: https://www.triggershims.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/webassets/wolff_17110_MCO.jpg:

The lightest set of springs went into my 357, and the 'next' lightest set went into my 22***.
(I'm aware the kit above is 'not' for the GP100 - 22, but IMHO, that's only b/c they offer a 22-specific kit with (I assume) slightly stronger hammer springs. Fitment is not a problem/parts are the same overall size)

And while you are in there changing springs, a little time spent with some wet-1500 grit in key places can help as well!
(You Tube)

(*** The 22 was a bit fussy at first, BUT, that's another story for another thread)
 
Like I said I haven't looked into it yet. I am pretty mechanically inclined for the most part. I do things myself as much as possible. I hate throwing money away when I can usually figure things out.



Yes I figured there would be. You Tube is awesome. It can turn almost anyone into a pro with minimal effort.

I will have to look into the wolf spring kit a little more. I looked it up but didn't have time to look into it like I wanted. There seems to be a selection of different springs with different spring rates. Being I'm kind of new to revolvers I don't know what spring I would like. My Kimber trigger is very short and very light. I like it but I know the double action revolver is a different animal.
Wolff sells a 9#, 10# and 12# in a set. The stock GP 100 mainspring is 14#. The 10# is probably as light as you want to go for reliability. Experiment with the 12# and work down to 10# checking for reliability. Lance at triggershims.com has a great "how to" video for both installing/measuring shims and changing out the mainspring. Follow his instructions and it's very simple. A lot of folks, like me don't bother changing the trigger return spring. Trust me, if I can do it easily it's not difficult.
 
Thanks for the heads up I will be looking into it. I still want to shoot it as is for a while before I start making changes. I am curious though about how the change from a 14# to a 10# spring would feel in my hands. I guess the only way I'm going to know is to try it.
 
I own two S&W revolvers but once I shot a GP100 I had to own one. 6” barrel with a Houge grip, It is my “go to” anytime I head to the range. Double action was a little tight out of the box but after about 1000 rounds and sufficient lubrication it couldn’t be better. Very wise purchase, congratulations!
 
Just finished watching a YouTube video as the previous post was being posted. The video I saw made it look very easy. I'm thinking the spring kit might get ordered tonight. I might even order a kit for my other .357 while I'm at it.
EDIT:
Funny thing the video I watched was the same as posted by LuckyDawg13. Looks like it can be done in less than 10 minutes.
 
I'm not much for revolvers, but I did have a GP100 and it was a great gun. I think you'll get a lot of enjoyment out of it. I only sold mine to fund another purchase, otherwise, I'd still have it.
 
I only have one revolver until I get to pick up the new gp 100. I really enjoy the simple nature of the revolver. I bought the first one hoping my son could shoot it but he can't really pull the trigger DA.

I just ordered the wolf kit for both of my revolvers.

All the pistols I own one has a good trigger out of the box. If I have the spring kit on hand and I decide to try it it's there and if I don't like it I'm out $15.

I'm still going to run some rounds through it as is first. As others have said the springs make a big difference.
 
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After shimming my two GP100s and firing a thousand rounds each had nice smooth triggers and I didn't change the mainsprings. My SP101 2.25" 357 trigger needed to be lightened so I bought the set from Wolff. The 10# was light and reliable. Just to experiment at range I tried the 9# and had one FTF(light strike) after 300 rounds. I went back to the 10# and it's been 100% reliable. Since I had a 12# spring, I installed it in one GP and it's very nice but not necessary. I used the vise as the video shows to hold the strut the first couple times before I found a trick I now use. Drill a hole in a block of wood and use an old fork to depress the spring. Make sure you face the "claw" toward the front when you reinsert the strut. IMG_0628.JPG
 
GP 100... Fantastic revolvers. Just be careful of the seven round edition some of them have issues with the cartridges binding up in the cylinder.
 
I had a 4" stainless awhile back. Nice gun. Very comfortable to shoot magnums out of. Very easy to change the sights. I replaced them with the XS Big Dot.

Wish I never sold it
 
As you may have surmised, some folks like to tinker and obsess about meaningless minutiae.

Don't get me wrong especially being new. I double and triple check things when I am reloading. I have been known to obsess with measuring every single powder drop and even measuring OAL when using bullets with cannelures. I know it probably sounds stupid to people who have been reloading for 50 years but being new I feel better safe than sorry. My goal is accurate and consistent ammo that will shoot at my skill level or hopefully better.
 
I've got the 6" with the full lug and the rubber Hogue grips. Bought it a couple years ago. I find the long lug
makes the front better balanced, and helps steady it for aiming.

Doesn't like that cheap steel ammo, tho. Stuff is very hard to eject.


AANNNnndd IBTL.
 
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My wife has a GP100 bought early this year and the trigger was gritty and actually squeaky. It was dry as a bone out of the box but even oil didn’t help the trigger. The hammer was dragging on burs on the frame. I left all the stock springs in it but polished the hell out of everything, and not with a dremel tool. Use precision gage blocks with 1000 grit and I surface plate sanded the hammer flat. Then white scotch brite with oil and elbow grease. Trigger is slick as glass now. A little heavy but so smooth it doesn’t matter. I too am OCD so I spent WAY too much time on it.
 
I don't have one and I really don't want to get that serious about shooting or reloading. Maybe I'm missing something here and I'm not trying to be rude or disrespectful.

When I recently started reloading I started doing my workups at 10% lower than the lowest recommended powder range for my powder and bullet combinations. I loaded several rounds usually about 10 of each in tenth grain increments. I go to the range shoot them until I either find a good group or I run out and continue the work up until I find what works best. Usually it doesn't take much to find a load that shoots good as or better than the cheaper factory loads.

I loaded probably 2000 rounds before I ever got a chronograph. I eventually did because I figured unexpected velocities from certain loadings might give me an idea if something else is off indicating too low or too high of pressure. I found it interesting also to test my defense loads out of short barrel guns. I wonder sometimes about velocity loss due to barrel length, and if it will have an effect on expansion. It can also be a good tool if you are loading pistol ammo, and then also wanting the same rounds to work in a carbine.

Example: I loaded a bunch of 357 magnums with 158 gr platted bullets rated for 1500 ft/sec. Out of a 6" revolver I was getting around 1200 ft/sec average, and that was a max load. This was disappointing to me as I can easily exceed that speed in a 5" 10mm. So I found it useful in that it indicates I may have a problem with that gun. Then I noticed as the charge increased I was getting bullet fragments splashing back at me, and a piece actually cut my ear bad enough I had to stop shooting to clean myself up. When inspecting the gun I saw that lead and copper are piling up between the top of the forcing cone and top strap. So I think I have a timing issue, or it may be an excessive barrel cylinder gap, which might explain the velocities I was seeing. Throw in the fact that it's a competition revolver that seems to be failing to ignite primers in DA, AGAIN, and I'm about readyu to tell S&W to shove that thing up their ass. Performance Center...………. what a sham. Ok, rant over.

When I tested the same loads in my Henry Lever Action, I got a three shot average of over 1650 ft/sec. That's too fast for that bullet. So My chronograph gave me a little extra info there too.

I am learning I also like to tinker with loads a little too. My recent entry into 38 Super taught me that.

If you do ever buy one, I recommend a Labradar. They are fun to use and seem to give good data. They are pricey though.

However, CraigC is absolutely right. All of that info I got with the exception of the carbine velocity could have been figured out with a little experience, a little reading, and simple deductive logic. Chronographs are fun, and useful, but not necessary.

As far as the trigger thing goes, umm. I guess I'm stupid and don't get it. I don't see how there would be anything but the weakest of correlative data with that, but maybe I'm missing something.
 
I have spent very little time researching chronograph stuff. Like maybe 10 minutes total. I get the basic idea behind it. I was reading on one particular one that I don't even remember the brand now. It said it wasn't suitable for outside use. Maybe it has something to do with with light I'm not sure. I'm also pretty sure the only local indoor range doesn't allow the use of chronographs or handloaded ammo. I'm sure I could sneak in some of my reloads if I really wanted. If I have to use a chronograph indoors that doesn't really work for me. Also like I said my research on this is so minimal I would not really call it research at this point.
 
I found a couple of chronographs local through a big box store one is a Caldwell brand for about $100. How much do you really have to spend to get a decent one for the average nobody?
 
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